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#15
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 30 Apr, 2012 18:36
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ARRGG!! I was so upset today, I almost went on a cursing rampage. haha. Man feeling pretty good right now, just can't wait to find out whats next on the list that i'll have to post a question about. Haha
well thanks guys( 8v-of-fury, theman53, Thezorn) there is a possiblity there will be more questions.
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#16
by
8v-of-fury
on 30 Apr, 2012 18:43
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I have some great advice for you for the future.
There is no new problem lol, so I suggest that before making 23.5 different threads you make use of the somewhat excellent search function that this forum offers. Generally the posts are named with what you would have used for a thread, so you should be able to find what you are looking for. Not that posting threads is bad, it is a forum after all.
They are quite the beast to fully learn. I have been pretty heavy in to them for a few years now (maintain a fleet of 5 daily drivers).. and I am still learning.
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#17
by
wdkingery
on 30 Apr, 2012 19:27
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^^^ Lol 23.5 threads lol
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#18
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 01 May, 2012 07:47
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Ok so there is only fuel coming out of line 3, the rest have nothing coming out.
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#19
by
rodpaslow
on 01 May, 2012 14:02
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Tighten line 3 and continue cranking till the rest have fuel dripping out and tighten as this happens. I find usually if two are dripping and I tighten them I can generally start it with one cycle of the glow plugs. Of course it will miss until the all are tightened down. You should definitely see smoke at this point.
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#20
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 01 May, 2012 16:13
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ok, so no smoke and no fuel out of the rest of the lines, i think i found the problem, i believe there was a leak on IP, top bolt on the bracket that the cold start connects to, it would push out and leak fuel so i this that was preventing preasure to build up enough to push through the injectors. I'm just assuming as of right now not to sure. The bolt wont tighten either. every time i try to crank it, it pushes back out... Sould i swap the Ip?
Ok so if that doesnt work, and fuel is being suplied and still no smoke whats next? not enough preasure to burn the fuel? Timing? Timing is on tho, did go over that.
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#21
by
Thezorn
on 01 May, 2012 22:49
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You could always take all the lines off and check to see if fuel is being shot out of the delivery valves right at the pump, possibley clogged injector lines to two cylinders, but not likely.
If not then all if could be is internal pump problems, and that stuff is way over my head personally haha.
Good luck
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#22
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 02 May, 2012 06:32
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I swaped out the IP, It was going to leak fuel regardless, so i threw on my N/a pump. I KNOW that one works. I am going to go through the timing steps without belt on.. Then try again, hopefully it works. What if its not the pump and timing. Whats next could it be that the head bolts arent tight enough? throwing off compression ratios, not let it to burn off fuel?
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#23
by
theman53
on 02 May, 2012 08:48
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If you don't have fuel then it is foolish to think compression. If you had fuel that would be different. I have been able to at least start a car when warm out with timing retarded and advanced as far as .80 to 1.29 mm. They had different performances but it started.
If you get fuel then you should look on to other things.
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#24
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 02 May, 2012 09:46
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....................... I am going to go through the timing steps without belt on..
Please don't do that! The belt has to be on when you doing timing adjustments.
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#25
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 02 May, 2012 10:00
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....................... I am going to go through the timing steps without belt on..
Please don't do that! The belt has to be on when you doing timing adjustments.
Im going to lock everything in place and make adjustments if needed. If i was to take everything to TDC i wouldnt need timing belt on? correct. That was what i was planning on doing. taking it to absolute center for flywheel and so on.. Thats how you would do if you just did a entire rebuild.
Also what is the spec that the head bolts have to be torqued to?
Thank you guys for working with me.
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#26
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 02 May, 2012 10:44
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....................... I am going to go through the timing steps without belt on..
Please don't do that! The belt has to be on when you doing timing adjustments.
Im going to lock everything in place and make adjustments if needed. If i was to take everything to TDC i wouldnt need timing belt on? correct. That was what i was planning on doing. taking it to absolute center for flywheel and so on.. Thats how you would do if you just did a entire rebuild.
Also what is the spec that the head bolts have to be torqued to?
Thank you guys for working with me.
44 ft lbs + 2 quarter turns
torque all to 30 ft lbs, then 44, then add a quarter turn, then add ANOTHER quarter turn..
as for the timing belt being off. why are you trying to mess around with your engine with no belt on it? unless there is some reason as to why YOU CANT set things up with the belt, then put the damn thing on there, and time it properly.
the belt keeps everything relative.. the crank will move from TDC just by shaking the car too much.. the cam has a lock plate, and the pump has a lock pin, but still.. whats your reasoning for needing the belt off to time the engine?
we all time our engines with the BELT ON.. it makes it MUCH EASIER.
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#27
by
libbydiesel
on 02 May, 2012 10:58
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....................... I am going to go through the timing steps without belt on..
Please don't do that! The belt has to be on when you doing timing adjustments.
Im going to lock everything in place and make adjustments if needed. If i was to take everything to TDC i wouldnt need timing belt on? correct. That was what i was planning on doing. taking it to absolute center for flywheel and so on.. Thats how you would do if you just did a entire rebuild.
Also what is the spec that the head bolts have to be torqued to?
Thank you guys for working with me.
The position of the cogs of the timing belt when the crank is at TDC are the reference for the timing of the pump and cam sprocket. Machined difference in crank line bore, the machined positions of the pump mounting bracket, the positioning of the pump bracket onto the block and variances in manufacturing of the timing belt itself can all change the relative position of the pump when timed properly. There is nothing wrong with placing the lock pin in the pump sprocket and the cam plate in place. That is the first step in installing the belt, but that is not "timing the engine". Trying to determine the position of the pump in the pump bracket and the position of the cam sprocket relative the cam is what would be called "timing the engine" and those steps can ONLY be performed successfully with the belt in place.
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#28
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 02 May, 2012 14:47
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Ok, if TDC is lined up and the cam/ pump off, then to correct them to TDC then belt would have to come off in order to make a adjustment. Correct? The only reason the belt is off as of right now it is that i replaced the pump. Cam has been locked. But if your saying that the TDC can be thrown off by just a bump of the car? So then i'll have to set it either way just from the fact i took the belt off and replaced the pump.
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#29
by
One_punchmachinegun
on 02 May, 2012 16:45
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"the flywheel bolts aren't all symmetrically drilled so you can only put it on one way"
Is this statement True?