...which means slow spool
Did you log the boost pressure vs. rpm on the dyno run?
No, I didn't,but will the next time at the dyno.
I'm thinking of an intake manifold idea. I'd like to mount the H2O/OXY intercooler in the cab, just behind the fire wall, and cut holes as to run the boost hoses to it. It'll help to minimize the clutter in the engine bay, and keep the heat under the hood to a minimum. Well at first thought.
So the lower intake manifold is from a MK2 NA diesel, then adding a 4" round pipe for the plenum and then connecting to it, sheet aluminium tapered down to a 3" port for a hose to connect to the intercooler.
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Or maybe like this.
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Small update.
Got the new seat and cover. Made some mounts and installed it. Also got some new seat belts. Finally fab'ed up a front engine mount to the front frame. I think I'm all done with the moc up engine in the Scoircco. So I puled it out so I can get busy on cleaning and painting the front of the car before the trucks setup goes in. I'll need to make all new piping for the intercooler and a new location. Oh, a new set of front wheels for the slicks. I have'nt got those yet as I need to figure out if 23" slicks is going to be better than 22" slicks. It'll give more of a load on engine to be able to build boost sooner, also to strech out the gears.
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Spent more time at the shop today, cleaning and painting parts.
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Heres a pic of the new seat in the car.
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Also started mounting the new door on passenger side. The origanal one didn't have a window piller, so I needed to put on a new door to do so.
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I bought a new Cal style front windshield seal and had it installed with a good used window. Looks much better.
Here's a pic of one of the new front wheels.
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Looking good Josh, just wanted you to be aware of a couple things.
The tech guy made me put in a back brace from the cage to the seat like this.
And also on the slicks remember that they grow several inches on the top end so
leave a little room so they don't rub. Check out this guy, it may be a little excessive.
Also if you run your tire pressure this low rim screws are a must.
Hey Andrew. Thats what I was tring to show in that pic. Yes thats what I'd like to do but the space under the hood is getting busy. I think that I'm going to mount the intercooler right behind the fire wall with the hose ends facing the engine and then plumming it from there.
Thanks for the advice on the seat back. The back head rest part of the seat is touching the seat belt bar of the roll bar itself. So it shoud be ok, but I guess I'll find out when the time comes.
I forgot to mention that the shoulder harness to cross bar attachment has to have something to prevent the
loop on the cross bar from sliding left to right. You can see mine is in between the two upper seat braces, but
it can be something as simple as a couple of muffler clamps. The whole idea is to keep your head from going out the window
in a rollover or hard side impact by attaching the seat top and shoulder harness to the cross bar.
Got it. I remember having to do something very similar to an R32 rollbar. We just bent up some 1/8th in. round stock and welded it on, then laced the belts through.
Sorry, not much to update. I just can't get any decent quality time but a little here and there time.
So I cut off the tubing that had been modified by the PO and welded in the replacement.
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Next thing to take care of is the steering rack. Its got a PWR. rack now but I want to remove it and replace it with a manual rack, but the PO had addapted it to the later style passenger mount. If you look at the last pic. on the passenger side rack mounting area, its been modified/hacked to fit the later two bolt style mount. Thats great but the way they did it, the rack won't fit right/flush against the mount. Pluss the strap the used to fasten the PRW rack was hacked up out of scrap. So I need to re-do that mount.
I also got a nitrous blow down tube setup along with a nitrous bottle gauge. All from Dyno Tune Nitrous.
Here is a link to some of the up-coming hill climbing events that I'd like to attend.
http://www.nhahillclimb.org/.
So here is a pic of the craptastickle job of the PO and their idea of adding a steering rack mount.
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I never knew that steering racks for MK1 had differed so much.
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Top is the PWR rack that was in when i got the car. Middle one is a new, late MK1 that uses two
mounting hoops and the bottom is an early MK1 rack that has just one mount on the passenger side.
After tring to bolt up the new later MK1 rack. It doesn't even come close to fitting right. The early Mk1 rack is just as bad. No worky. So I guess I'm going to have to cut all that crap off and start over new and make it fit the right way.
Small update. After searching on Etka, I found out what parts I have and what are compatable. The blue rack is from an '82 Rabbit with PWR. steering. The steering shaft on the car has been modified to fit the PWR. rack sence they have different splines. No wonder nothing fits right. Anyway, the two bolts on the drivers side mount are spaced differently compaired to later Scirocco and Rabbits. They are wider. No wonder the straps they had on there were "custom"
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So I decided to use the fresh rebuilt early style steering rack sence it fits the two blots on the drivers side. Also I grabed the steering shaft off of my parts Scirocco which has the same PN of both Rabbit and Scirocco so I know it fits. I still had to de-modify the passenger side crap that was there. So I cut off the top nut and bottom bolt that was welded and cut the boxed piece and adjusted it to reinforce that side.
The rack needed to be brought out just a bit with some nuts to clear the framing on drivers side and passenger side to keep it parrallel.
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Its just tack welded for know to make sure the tierod ends would fit and have proper adjustment.
I know that the fix is not to the same build quality as the other stuff but the firewall metal is so thin, grinding it would take for ever and it won't be seen, but it is much stronger than just three bolts.
