RED WIRE! RED WIRE! Securety to Engine Bay!!!
Looks to me, Captain, Someone has run a new wire to the fuel shutoff valve.
Yes, I think you might be correct Mr Speckless! (Turns head aside and whispers "TURN OFF THAT ALARM, PLEASE!)
i too had to run a new wire to my fuel cutoff, as i shorted it out while messin with the fuel screw with the key on listening to tunes....
I just spliced in a new lead under the dash instead of running a whole new wire though.. The blue w/black wire coming from the 4-way switch is HOT in Run and Start.
Update:
Finally got it home. Drove it home on its own power, no issues. Took a little video of the vehicle walk around. In it I pose some questions to all of you about various things with the car. Please feel free to comment or offer suggestions on the best way to go about some of these things.
Happy viewing!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rUnvXyz-FM
Good cleaning and new battery cables , center cap's ( wheels ) hoses and belts with new fluid....
Nice Find !
GB
Good cleaning and new battery cables , center cap's ( wheels ) hoses and belts with new fluid....
Nice Find !
GB
I agree. If you don't know how many months and miles ago the timing belt was changed... then handle this first! If your timing belt breaks your head will be toast, or worse... This engine has an interference head.
You are lucky to have gotten an ecodiesel because the previous owner(s) obviously could not abuse the engine.
The transmission on 91-92 jettas is suboptimal for freeway travel over long distances. A taller 5th gear would be quieter, more comfortable, and lower rpm's.
I am concerned that you say you cannot top 70 mph on the freeway. This should not be the case on flat surface without a head wind. This IP will take it's sweet time getting you up to speed, but you should be able to push up to 80 mph at least. This makes me suspect the timing and/or injectors. I would refresh the injectors when the new IP goes in. The timing will get handled when the IP goes in. Giles rebuilds injectors too... If you want power over economy then look at GTD injector nozzles.
It would be most time efficient in total to do the IP, injectors, and timing belt/pulley all at once.
I agree that the Giles pump is worth the effort. That is my experience.
There is nothing wrong with the K14 Turbo (though it would be a good idea to check for shaft play if it is original with 191K). Many people prefer it for around town use. This Turbo gives nice power at lower revs. A larger Turbo from a 1.6 TD would give you more oomph at higher rpm's. The consideration is that these don't spool up until your revs get up there... which means you won't be racing anyone around dead man's curve. LOL.
Nice find. Congratulations.
you would benefit more from swapping to a na pump than from simply adding an lda
Good cleaning and new battery cables , center cap's ( wheels ) hoses and belts with new fluid....
Nice Find !
GB
I agree. If you don't know how many months and miles ago the timing belt was changed... then handle this first! If your timing belt breaks your head will be toast, or worse... This engine has an interference head.
You are lucky to have gotten an ecodiesel because the previous owner(s) obviously could not abuse the engine.
The transmission on 91-92 jettas is suboptimal for freeway travel over long distances. A taller 5th gear would be quieter, more comfortable, and lower rpm's.
I am concerned that you say you cannot top 70 mph on the freeway. This should not be the case on flat surface without a head wind. This IP will take it's sweet time getting you up to speed, but you should be able to push up to 80 mph at least. This makes me suspect the timing and/or injectors. I would refresh the injectors when the new IP goes in. The timing will get handled when the IP goes in. Giles rebuilds injectors too... If you want power over economy then look at GTD injector nozzles.
It would be most time efficient in total to do the IP, injectors, and timing belt/pulley all at once.
I agree that the Giles pump is worth the effort. That is my experience.
There is nothing wrong with the K14 Turbo (though it would be a good idea to check for shaft play if it is original with 191K). Many people prefer it for around town use. This Turbo gives nice power at lower revs. A larger Turbo from a 1.6 TD would give you more oomph at higher rpm's. The consideration is that these don't spool up until your revs get up there... which means you won't be racing anyone around dead man's curve. LOL.
Nice find. Congratulations.
Thanks and thanks as well for the other responses. I tried it out again making sure tires were at correct pressure, and I was able to just get over 70. I am going to do the Diesel Purge and see if that doesnt help some.
Although the car is in overall great shape, I am discovering bit by bit little things about it. Like how one of the previous owners has used a wood screw to fasten the trim to one of the door panels, as well the grill.
I plan on doing a full service though, belts, hoses, and the usual stuff like oil and fluid flushes. Brakes, air cleaner (upgrade to the K&N insert for now) Ive cleaned the exterior and attempted brightening the paint. Wheels came out great and the interior is on the list as well.
Its nice to have a project.
Finally got around to the carfax. This little gray goose has lived most of its like in the south. Probably why there isnt a lick of rust on her.
She appears to have been in a few fender benders. Although the rebuilt titles confuse me a bit. It seems like its linked to major vehicle damage, but I cant see any damage on the car, or evidence of major repairs, that would indicate a totaling of it. Its one of the first things I look for when I buy a car. Maybe some of you can shed some light on these kinds of titles.
08/31/1991
NICB
Vehicle manufactured
and shipped to original dealer
10/03/1991 109 Delaware
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Wilmington, DE
Title or registration issued
First owner reported
09/25/1998 64,405 North Carolina
Inspection Station
Concord, NC
Passed emissions inspection
09/08/2000 64,500 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Concord, NC
Registration issued or renewed
05/30/2001 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Concord, NC
SALVAGE TITLE/CERTIFICATE ISSUED
07/24/2001 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Statesville, NC
Registration issued or renewed
08/08/2003 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Statesville, NC
REBUILT TITLE ISSUED
Damage Disclosure reported
06/18/2004 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Spruce Pine, NC
Registration updated when owner moved
the vehicle to a new location
06/28/2004 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Spruce Pine, NC
REBUILT TITLE ISSUED
Damage Disclosure reported
07/07/2005 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Spruce Pine, NC
REBUILT TITLE ISSUED
Damage Disclosure reported
04/11/2006 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Statesville, NC
Registration updated when owner moved
the vehicle to a new location
07/25/2006 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Dillsboro, NC
Registration updated when owner moved
the vehicle to a new location
07/31/2006 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Sylva, NC
REBUILT TITLE ISSUED
Damage Disclosure reported
06/28/2007 North Carolina
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Sylva, NC
REBUILT TITLE ISSUED
Damage Disclosure reported
01/07/2008 Virginia
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Fairfax, VA
Vehicle purchase reported
01/11/2008 167,071 Virginia
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Fairfax, VA
New owner reported
SALVAGE TITLE/CERTIFICATE ISSUED
REBUILT TITLE ISSUED
10/30/2008 Florida
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Tampa, FL
Vehicle purchase reported
10/31/2008 175,650 Florida
Motor Vehicle Dept.
New owner reported
REBUILT TITLE ISSUED
Registered as
personal vehicle
Vehicle color noted as Gray
08/28/2009 Florida
Motor Vehicle Dept.
Tampa, FL
Title #0101619134 REBUILT TITLE ISSUED
Registered as
personal vehicle
Vehicle color noted as Gray
Based on the excellent advice you can find around here, I have just finished up my first LM diesel purge. I used the excellent how-to from the post on the TDI Club forums as the template. I went and purchased the required supplies, and put it all together.
The EcoDiesel is older then the car in the pics from the thread, but I am pretty sure I was able to figure out which one was the return line. I am also pretty sure because the Eco can now get up to 75 steady, in contrast to the 70 mph top speed reported earlier in this thread. Also, she seems to have a little more umph, and lastly, the yellow light with the double loop emblem (don't know what its for) didn't come on at all on the test drive after.
Just in case though, I have posted a few short vids for your consumption. The first vid is there to have the community confirm I did it right, and the second video is there for you all to take a listen to the engine at various speeds and comment on its health.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJsk60fHvQEhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCszQ-Pt3CwThe whole process took about 30 minutes and I feel it was worth it! (If I did it right!)
Looks like you got this thing under control, and from the two video's you do it professionally
The yellow light in the dash with the two loops is for the glow plugs, not sure whats up there.. if the car still starts fine, and the light does not come on after starting, i wouldn't worry about it. Odd however that doing a purge stopped the light from malfunctioning? You must have knocked something back in to place or something. lol
The engine sounds very smooth and the turbo sounds peppy. But from a video we can't really tell you anything about its health unfortunately. If the engine only has 190k (miles I'm assuming) then its still a baby lol and has a long way to go. to put it in retrospect. My own little 1.6 N/a is coming up on 600k (yes miles)... still runs its little heart out every time i drive it, she pulls her own on the highway too.. 34-3500 rpm and 85 mph cruising no problem with four people in the car.
Your well on your way to a very successful little car here buddy
Keep up the good work.
Back with an update. I have installed a new cone filter to replace the factory air box. It does seem like she has a little more pep, and over all I am pleased with the outcome. It has caused me some questions though. When I took out the air box I noticed this little circular attachment to it that looked like a vacuum hose should be attached to it, (there wasnt a hose connected though.
Is this something I should worry about? Or is it something that is just massed produced and that vacuum module is used in another vehicle application?
Another thing I noticed was that the airbox had another tube below the air filter that had a flap sort of covering the inlet. Is this something I should worry about not having with the cone filter.
I attached the filter to the factory hose that the airbox connected to. Please feel free to lay upon me the error of my ways if I have committed some.
Lastly, I tackled the hood. If you look back at the first page threads, you can see that the hood was quite nasty. I have spent most of Memorial Day Weekend on this project. I have posted some videos of my progress.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnoPVkVV4Okhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OE5ZL_QES70http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOK-VVB098Uhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7uQOo8fJo8All nooks and crannys down to the metal! Ive since acetoned the bejesus out of it, tack clothed and remasked. Have just put the first coat of primer down and am preparing for my first round of wetsanding.
Just posting the finished product.
All shaker can. Satin Black after a few coats of primer, wetsanding, and lots of learning.
Wow
Looks Great
Thanks! Not bad for my first time refinishing a hood. Many tips from this site helped me with the process!
Hood looks great. I would love to do that on mine, but the roof and deck lid are just as bad. I think I have some charcoal grey that may be close enough to work on mine to do all the top surfaces. This color is idiotic in Florida...
Rick