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#45
by
theman53
on 01 Jul, 2009 16:41
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Pics and explination comming soon for the KKK K24 and stock oil filter flange. Going to get pics now.
There are two threads for the fittings on each of the filter flange and the turbo. They are both the same.
This is M14-1.5
This is M12-1.5
This thread is M14-1.5
This is M12-1.5
Also what I have found is that the oil pan drain thread is 7/8-14 thread. I have been told that this is also called JIC 14 or AN-14. I can't use alot of the oil pan info since I am making mine from scratch since the oil pan had holes in it. Also the "other" hole in the filter flange is M10-1.0 thread I believe.
I now feel useful as I think this is a good contribution finally...unlike what I normally post
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#46
by
theman53
on 01 Jul, 2009 19:48
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OK...this should be faq material I am just saying
If the garrett and kkk are mostly the same and guys have switched turbos then I am guessing this info would hold true for both.
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#47
by
regcheeseman
on 02 Jul, 2009 05:04
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You sure about those fitting sizes.
It's very rare to have M spec threads on pressure lines
Far more likely to have NPT National Pipe Tapered or BSP British Standard Pipe or BSPT (tapered) and the AN Army Navy you mention
The PT fittings just have a threaded end, which is what seals. The AN fittings have a 37 degree conical end which is what makes the seal.
BPST and NPT are very similar, but they differ in two ways, the angle the threads are cut in are off by 5 degrees, also BPST has rounded thread peaks, while NPT has flat peaks. The O.D. and thread pitch are the same.
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#48
by
theman53
on 02 Jul, 2009 05:37
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Yeah I spent over an hour at the hydrualic hose shop gathering pieces. So either they have the wrong pieces in the wrong boxes and the thread guages marked wrong or I am correct. We had thread pitch gauges, fittings, and the parts going onto them to get it all to fit. The only one I am somewhat not for sure on is the oil pan drain inlet that is stock. I didn't spend as much time with that because I can't use that, but I do know that the JIC 7/8-14 thread will thread right on all the way, it just wouldn't seal because it doesn't have the flare. Maybe it is metric too since everything else is? It is definately a straight non tapered thread though.
Bottom line, trust me on what is pictured. I should have the lines finished by 10th I will post them in my thread.
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#49
by
lord_verminaard
on 02 Jul, 2009 05:52
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Wow, interesting. So the hole on the oil filter flange for the oil temp sensor, is a M10.1? Interesting, I figured it would be the same.
I guess it makes sense that the fittings are M sizes, since they are using copper washers to seal with, common on Volkswagens.
Thanks for your research, that helps. I need to dig my turbo out of the pile of crap that I threw it in here soon to rebuild it, and check the fitting sizes on it. I don't think it had any fittings on it though, just the holes for them.
Brendan
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#50
by
GEE-BEE
on 02 Jul, 2009 08:54
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I found a adapter on ebay with a AN-8 flare on one side ( TURBO OIL FLANGE DRAIN )
ITEM 380129020749
Iam going to have a local aircraft hose shop make a -8 flare hose assy to a male pipe for my k03 turbo
The hose will be teflon high working temp with a intergral firesleeve ( silicone ) 15 minutes at 2500 flame is the milspec
1500 working pressur, both fittings will be swager on and pressure tested at 3000 psi on a water test bench..
Hose is AeroQuip AE466-8
You can also get fire-sleev from aircraft spruce by the ft, It is sold in red or black and slips on the hose for more heat protection.
I mfg aircraft silicone seals for various aircarft mfg's and had a aircraft hose shop before this for six years
Gee-Bee Aeroproducts: 17 years and going
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#51
by
theman53
on 11 Jul, 2009 11:26
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I am replacing these ...
with these m10 to jic8 and a braided hose...
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#52
by
lord_verminaard
on 13 Jul, 2009 08:33
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Great information. I hope the T3's are the same.
Brendan
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#53
by
bajacalal
on 13 Jul, 2009 13:37
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Saurkraut, how did you remove the crimped ends of the flexible section so neatly? Grinding wheel, dremel tool? This looks like the best idea yet but I'd hate to bugger up the metal like with sloppy grinding.
Mine's leaking and I'm not sure why VW had to make this pipe more complicated than it needs to be. Stainless steel braided line with crimped ends seems like overkill for an oil drain. I looked at some 300Ds, appeared to use plain steel tubing all the way down. I'm planning to replace the flexible section with a product called Multi-duty hose, sold by NAPA (Gates hose). It's red, and has good resistance to pressure, heat, fuel and oil. It's what you could use for oil coolers, etc. I'm also going to wrap the hose with some type of insulation.
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#54
by
saurkraut
on 19 Jul, 2009 06:16
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Saurkraut, how did you remove the crimped ends of the flexible section so neatly? Grinding wheel, dremel tool? This looks like the best idea yet but I'd hate to bugger up the metal like with sloppy grinding.
I used a bench grinder and ground down the swage sleeve only.
I'm using NAPA hose too. 5/8" black fuel/oil compatable
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#55
by
rallydiesel
on 19 Jul, 2009 07:30
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The oil drain line is the bane of my existence. And my driveway's. I've got an AN -10 braided line coming in that mail. I'm going to get the pan fitting cut and weld a NPT bung to accept an NPT/AN adapter fitting. I orderd a couple different flanges to try for the turbo fitting. If those don't work, I will cut the stock flange and weld an AN fitting. I'll post some pics when it's done.
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#56
by
jtanguay
on 19 Jul, 2009 08:06
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i wonder why everyone returns the oil to the pan and not drill/tap the block like the AAZ/TDI's?
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#57
by
bajacalal
on 19 Jul, 2009 08:15
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Both are good ideas.
BTW, if the black fuel hose doesn't hold up to the hot oil (and proximity to the turbo) try the NAPA multi-duty hose. It has better resistance to heat and pressure. The walls of this hose are thicker, more heavy-duty and the material is different. Make sure it is red and says "Multi-Duty hose." You may not find it at some smaller stores. But, the hose you are using could last for years, I'm not sure how hot it gets.
Why drill the block when you don't really need to? I'm also considering using a n/a oil pan (mine has some dents) and welding the bung onto it to accept a hose nipple.
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#58
by
jtanguay
on 19 Jul, 2009 12:38
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Both are good ideas.
BTW, if the black fuel hose doesn't hold up to the hot oil (and proximity to the turbo) try the NAPA multi-duty hose. It has better resistance to heat and pressure. The walls of this hose are thicker, more heavy-duty and the material is different. Make sure it is red and says "Multi-Duty hose." You may not find it at some smaller stores. But, the hose you are using could last for years, I'm not sure how hot it gets.
Why drill the block when you don't really need to? I'm also considering using a n/a oil pan (mine has some dents) and welding the bung onto it to accept a hose nipple.
drill & tap is a lot easier than buying a bung and welding it on
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#59
by
theman53
on 19 Jul, 2009 12:51
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The main reason I didn't drill the block was that I didn't know my oil pan had holes in it. I had already painted the block and didn't want to mess with it and I figured I didn't want to mess with the structure of the block with my battery drill. If it wasn't painted and I had it on my dad's mill I probably would have done it, but I know how cast is and would hate to find a bad spot in it just for an oil return. Also, when running a baffle gasket I don't know how well the oil would drain. I had thought of running a 90 if I drilled the block so the oil would run straight down and not on the crank...I sometimes have too much time to think, I am sure drilling would be just fine.