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#60
by
bajacalal
on 27 Jul, 2009 12:10
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drill & tap is a lot easier than buying a bung and welding it on 
It's
a lot harder/more expensive to repair if you screw it up. I also think drilling and welding stamped sheet metal is much easier than trying to drill and tap a precise hole in the block while laying under the car. Rather than drilling cast iron with progressively larger drill bits, in tight spaces between the firewall and block, I could use 1 hole saw on the oil pan then quickly weld it up. I probably have the appropriate NPT bung laying around in my workshop.
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#61
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 28 Jul, 2009 12:20
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drill & tap is a lot easier than buying a bung and welding it on
It's a lot harder/more expensive to repair if you screw it up. I also think drilling and welding stamped sheet metal is much easier than trying to drill and tap a precise hole in the block while laying under the car. Rather than drilling cast iron with progressively larger drill bits, in tight spaces between the firewall and block, I could use 1 hole saw on the oil pan then quickly weld it up. I probably have the appropriate NPT bung laying around in my workshop.
What does it matter? the oil still goes back in the oil pan.. who cares if people drain it in the pan or into the block. im going for the pan, they are way easier to replace than a block.
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#62
by
jtanguay
on 28 Jul, 2009 14:58
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I'm not sure why the caps and the "WTF" and the "friggen". Not enough sleep? Too much coffee?
It is my understanding that having the end of the drain below the oil level in the sump can create situations where any positive crank case pressure can prevent the turbo from draining properly. It is similar to having a valley in the return line. If the positive pressure is greater than the weight of the oil in the line it can back up right into the turbo.
a very good example of why i believe the block return is far superior.
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#63
by
rabbitman
on 28 Jul, 2009 16:11
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I'm not sure why the caps and the "WTF" and the "friggen". Not enough sleep? Too much coffee?
It is my understanding that having the end of the drain below the oil level in the sump can create situations where any positive crank case pressure can prevent the turbo from draining properly. It is similar to having a valley in the return line. If the positive pressure is greater than the weight of the oil in the line it can back up right into the turbo.
I did a test with the pan off and with the full amount of oil it comes right to the top at the back of the pan, so you'd have to be low on oil for a pan drain to come in above the oil level.
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#64
by
theman53
on 28 Jul, 2009 17:11
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Did you take in account for the filter's oil capacity? Just wondering.
Like I said if my block hadn't been painted I would have drilled and tapped it. Or if my oil pan didn't have holes in it I would have used it like normal. I like the idea of the block drain, but I would like to know more about the structure of the block before cutting it all up...
The point is I figured out what oil lines are from VW on stock turbo. Where it drains really doesn't matter to me at this point. If you need to make a feed or return line for stock fittings look above I am positive it is correct.
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#65
by
rabbitman
on 28 Jul, 2009 18:06
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Did you take in account for the filter's oil capacity? Just wondering.
Like I said if my block hadn't been painted I would have drilled and tapped it. Or if my oil pan didn't have holes in it I would have used it like normal. I like the idea of the block drain, but I would like to know more about the structure of the block before cutting it all up...
The point is I figured out what oil lines are from VW on stock turbo. Where it drains really doesn't matter to me at this point. If you need to make a feed or return line for stock fittings look above I am positive it is correct.
Nope, but I did notice that as it gets fuller the level doesn't change as much per amount added due to the shape of the pan. On the dipstick I think the 3/4 inch full/add area is 1 quart. I think the filter holds about .5 quart(?) so you'd have 4.2q in the pan and that would hardly affect the level.
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#66
by
theman53
on 28 Jul, 2009 18:40
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The filter will hold about 1 quart, but you have to send it through with pressure or pour it in and wait a long time and pour more. The engine and any lines will keep some as well, not enough to worry about though.
Still it is basically all metric thread that you need to fit up to stock lines/turbo.
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#67
by
lord_verminaard
on 29 Jul, 2009 11:40
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Well, the oil drain is only important when the car is running, and I'd bet that there is at least a quart or more of oil in circulation at any given time, that combined with the oil filter is probably enough oil out of the pan to ensure the drain is out of the oil level. VW did it stock that way for a while so I'm sure they did their homework.
Brendan
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#68
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 29 Jul, 2009 18:15
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my 84 1.6 has the drain in the pan. my 83 2.0 has the oil drain on the block just barely above the pan. vw used both styles, so i dont think they really thought either design was better.
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#69
by
drrtybyl
on 30 Jul, 2009 10:52
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Couldn't you also position the turbo such that the oil drains to the pan at less of an angle, and in effect, more slowly?
I know this is an iffy engineering problem for different turbo setups.. I remember seeing a bottom mount project on a BMW with an oil return that actually used a drain plug fitting [at the bottom of the pan].. Of course oil wasn't draining back so vertically.
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#70
by
rallydiesel
on 25 Oct, 2009 17:19
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I finally got my custom oil drain mounted. For the turbo end, the stock flange was cut and a -6 AN fitting was brazed on. The oil pan fitting was cut off and a bung and 90 degree -6 AN fitting was brazed onto the pan itself. The line is stainless braided oil line from a turbo shop. I made a little bracket to hold the line and keep it from rubbing on the passenger drive axle.
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#71
by
JunkcollectorJ
on 07 Feb, 2010 19:18
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anyone have a pic of a K14 oil return? Preferably with a fitting threaded onto the stock return pipe (eco diesel K14 I believe). I'm trying to run a return line from that 18mm threaded pipe to the return in the pan (pan is a stock rabbit TD pan, 22mm fitting I think, original turbo was a T3 if that helps). I pieced one together for a test run, but it's temporary, so I'm looking for ideas or sources for parts that actually mate correctly to these fittings...
Also, if any one has just removed that pipe and used a hose directly from the turbo, a pic and some details of that would be much appreciated too.
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#72
by
GEE-BEE
on 08 Feb, 2010 00:13
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There is a k14 return line for sale on ebay germany Item : 350265851005
female swivel to banjo fitting on the end ( block )
GB
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#73
by
JunkcollectorJ
on 08 Feb, 2010 08:18
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Thanks, Gee bee.
Anyone have a pic of a custom line that they have built, and details on where you got the fittings? one with a female swivel (18mm) on one end and the larger female swivel (22mm) on the other?
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#74
by
GEE-BEE
on 08 Feb, 2010 10:42
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GO TO DISCOUNTHYDRALULICHOSE.COM
GET A METRIC TO AN-8 ADAPTER FOR YOUR TURBO HARDLINE RETURN
FOR YOUR BLOCK :ADAPTER 90 DEGREE 14MM TO -8 FLARED ADAPTER
MEASURE THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE TWO FITTINGS, ADD 1/2 FOR GROWTH
PURCHASE A FLARE TO FLARE -8 ( 1/2 ) TEFLON HOSE ASSY
YOU CAN ADD FIREJACKET ( SLEEVE )FOR PROTECTION
Slip on or get the hose style below.
Aeroquip AE466 ( intergal Firesleeve ) -65 to 450
Firesleeve meets 2500 flame test for 15 minutes
I had a Aircraft hose shop at Long beach Airport for years !
Gee-Bee