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#15
by
Rabbit TD
on 22 Nov, 2009 23:59
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Nice job on the seats. Where did you get the covers from or did you make them yourself? I can't find a decent set of blues ones anywhere other than the cheap thin ones from Autozone and such and even then there is the latch for the seat back release (2 door) to deal with. Where did you find them and if you did make them you did a very nice job
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#16
by
dennis
on 23 Nov, 2009 05:38
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Hi. How about a pic of your Intake/Fuel filter solution??
I need one.
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#17
by
ByramTra
on 23 Nov, 2009 12:22
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Although the heater blower motor is in the rain tray, (and the ecu on gassers?,) so it probably would be posible with the right rigging, although the required rigging might make it restrictive? You could always punch threw the firewall and suck air from under the dash!, although that could make it hard to keep the interior warm, and youd have to drive with a window at least cracked? Im not trying to blow your idia, I just dont like Hydrolocked motors!
Travis
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#18
by
kaneb
on 23 Nov, 2009 16:55
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My plan is to have a very discreet type scoop/vent on the right fender then isolate the rest of the intake from the rain tray. Eventually...at first it would just sit in the rain tray till i get my plan figured out so it looks nice still. The filter would have to be sitting in a puddle to get the engine hydrolocked, maybe i will do a test run at the wash bay just to be safe
Rabbit TD- the seat's were re-done by my wife. She hand sewn them, i helped with the door cards and headliner. They aren't perfect but i have maybe 50$ into the fabric and stuff from fabricland, this is just my fun car and wanted a plaid interior.
Dennis- I may or may not have a photo but i will take one in the next bit when im out in the garage. i pretty much just moved the filter from its bracket over. So it's held on with one stud instead of two to make room(temporary until i get the new engine in and clean the bay up)
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#19
by
dennis
on 24 Nov, 2009 05:51
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No problem. I'll figure out something. Im not too proud to use someone elses idea though.
Thanks
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#20
by
kaneb
on 24 Nov, 2009 10:14
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Here's an old picture, the day after i put the turbo bits on. Don't mind the vent off the valve cover, it's fixed up now.
The fuel fitler here is just temporary, but it works without any issues. Re-locate soon.
Hope that helps.
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#21
by
dennis
on 24 Nov, 2009 10:23
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Yeah that helps. think I will do what you did but use a piece of metal utilizing both of the mount studs that extends over to where you got yours using both holes.
Thanks
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#22
by
kaneb
on 24 Nov, 2009 11:20
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It's just on there with the one stud. Its fine, I would prefer both of course but for now its good.
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#23
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 25 Nov, 2009 08:17
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The only thing I would be concerned about would be sucking up water from the rain tray, (think about its name, its wet! its basically a gutter!) It would have a supply of fresh, cool air there though, and its close to the turbo. Just my thoughts.
Travis
you do raise a very good point, practically all the water from the front half of the car winds up there one way or another... You would have to work out some sort of ducting.. I dunno how you would do it.. probably not the best design for those of us in wet climates. lol
i live in oregon, on the coast. it rains 300 days a year. my car never inhales water. well, never enough to hurt it or for me to notice. only time you really get much water in the rain tray is when your car is idling stopped, or at very low speeds. so its not really a problem. besided, the water runs to the floor of the rain tray then out the drains.
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#24
by
dennis
on 25 Nov, 2009 12:14
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Funny. Doesn't seem to bother the heater blower either.
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#25
by
NintendoKD
on 26 Nov, 2009 19:15
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what in the world is that intake mani from???
I want one, I was thinking the same thing, in fact I have already removed part of the tray for just this purpose, and also It makes it easier to remove the head from the engine bay without having to remove the exhaust and intake.
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#26
by
kaneb
on 11 Dec, 2009 15:57
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well once it's a little warmer ill be Working more on the bottom end. I was just going to replace the rings, but since it's apart i am going to do it all with all new bearings going with kobleshicmt(sp??) and the rings i'm not sure the company name. I have to hone the block then ill order those parts, I doubt ill have to over size the ring after honing, but im not risking it.
For now though i just picked these up.
New gasket kit and arp head studs. Arp studs is probably over building it but thats better then under. .
Getting stoked for this little guy. Was pondering about doing a 3" DP and putting in an exhaust brake just to be a tard but i think i'd blow the 1.6 up, plus i don't require it at all. And have other things i could buy. Just thought it would be hilarious for such a little engine. Also im all about going over the top with this.
Quick question, as this is my first time really ripping into a vw engine. I've worked on hwy trucks, mostly international dt466, and assisting inframes on cat c-12's, cummins isx etc. I have the hydraulic lifters, and they have gotten mixed up and the bentley says to keep them in the same order etc. Is it just the solid lifters that need to be shimmed, thus need to be left in the same order or does the hydraulic ones need to be too? Still a newbie on this so thanks in advance!
Kane
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#27
by
rabbitman
on 11 Dec, 2009 22:56
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Hydro ones don't need shimmed ever.
I think the reason for not mixing them up is for the sake of the lifter bores and cam lobes, so it doesn't have to "wear in" more times than necessary.
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#28
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 12 Dec, 2009 07:57
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what in the world is that intake mani from??? I want one, I was thinking the same thing, in fact I have already removed part of the tray for just this purpose, and also It makes it easier to remove the head from the engine bay without having to remove the exhaust and intake.
what intake? the intake on kanes car is stock, and the one on my car is a digi 2 gas intake.
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#29
by
vanbcguy
on 12 Dec, 2009 08:04
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The lifters and the cam wear together big time. If you mix up your lifters chances are you're going to toast your cam in pretty short order. Essentially the cam lobes get a bit of a dish to them that matches the specific lifter it was running on.
Other thing is the hydro lifters DO wear out - given that they're only about $10 each if I were in your shoes I'd probably replace 'em either way.
No problem running new lifters on an old cam btw, you just can't do things the other way around.