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#45
by
truckinwagen
on 04 Apr, 2009 13:45
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well, no dice.
first up my starter was bad, wouldn't even turn on the bench, so I threw a gasser starter on it we had lying around(not as good I know, but it was there) but it will only turn the motor at 200 RPM, is that fast enough to start it? would it be because its not a diesel sterter?
I might just have to go buy a new diesel starter to get it turning fast enough.
next up, just cranking is pressurizing the coolant enough to burp out of the overflow with the cap off(WP and Alt not turning because I need to get a belt 1/2'' shorter) so I need to pull the VC off and torque the studs more( they are torqued down to 80ft-lbs right now with ARP moly lube) I think I will go to 95 ft-lbs and see if that will hold.
any ideas about why it is turning so slow(200rpm)?
do I need to just bite the bullet and buy a new diesel starter?
pics of the beast will be posted later when I have my camera cord.
-Owen
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#46
by
jtanguay
on 04 Apr, 2009 14:15
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well, no dice.
first up my starter was bad, wouldn't even turn on the bench, so I threw a gasser starter on it we had lying around(not as good I know, but it was there) but it will only turn the motor at 200 RPM, is that fast enough to start it? would it be because its not a diesel sterter?
I might just have to go buy a new diesel starter to get it turning fast enough.
next up, just cranking is pressurizing the coolant enough to burp out of the overflow with the cap off(WP and Alt not turning because I need to get a belt 1/2'' shorter) so I need to pull the VC off and torque the studs more( they are torqued down to 80ft-lbs right now with ARP moly lube) I think I will go to 95 ft-lbs and see if that will hold.
any ideas about why it is turning so slow(200rpm)?
do I need to just bite the bullet and buy a new diesel starter?
pics of the beast will be posted later when I have my camera cord.
-Owen
did you install an mls gasket? i think 80 ft-lbs isn't enough to 'crush' it...
and with good compression and good glowplugs, 200 rpm should be enough to start your car.
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#47
by
foxracer1
on 04 Apr, 2009 19:13
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I torqued my mls to 80 or 85 lb-ft and started it got it warm a few times idling. No cap on the coolant res then went 1/4 turn tighter when the engine was warm. got 1000 miles of easy break in miles (till latley) no probs. I wanna run 20 psi so bad.
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#48
by
truckinwagen
on 04 Apr, 2009 20:56
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yeah, I was pretty sure I would need to torque it down more, but I was hoping that it would hold coolant so I could warm it up before I retorqued it.
it seems to be turning over lots slower than it used to, I will probably buy a new starter anyway just to be sure, as I don't want to be running a gasser starter forever.
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#49
by
truckinwagen
on 04 Apr, 2009 21:20
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#50
by
truckinwagen
on 11 Apr, 2009 12:59
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well still no go, I torqued the studs down to 100 ft-lbs and it is still pouring coolant out the front and burping out the expansion tank.
still wont start either, although I suspect the fuel system still needs priming.
any ideas about how to get the HG to seal?
I might see if I can get a fiber HG just to get this damn thing on the road.
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#51
by
rallydiesel
on 11 Apr, 2009 13:08
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If it's not holding coolant at 85 ft lbs at idle it won't at 110 ft lbs. Sounds like the head is warped.
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#52
by
barrygti
on 11 Apr, 2009 13:15
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I have used a Wurth Sealant in the past that has worked great, but it's in my tool box at work so can't remember it's exact name.
A local engine builder had a head gasket problem on a race car in endurance racing, it would go after 3 events. They done about 3 gaskets and eventually tried this stuff and never done another. :lol:
I can get the name Tuesday(Monday your time
)
Oh but I agree with above, sounds like something is warped............
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#53
by
truckinwagen
on 11 Apr, 2009 13:24
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well, at 110 ft-lbs it stopped pushing coolant out of the head, but it still pressurizes the tank(not bad, enough to burp out coolant when I remove the cap)
I agree, something is probably bad, but right now I dont really care that much, I am going to be building a new motor for this thing anyway.
all I really want is for it to fire up so I can get it out of my buddies shop before I leave for the summer.
if it will fire and hold enough coolant to get it across town, I will be happy.
-Owen
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#54
by
truckinwagen
on 11 Apr, 2009 14:42
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well, still no fire yet, I have already cracked loose the injection lines to prime them, all four have fuel spurting out when loose.
still cranking for 30 seconds and let sit for a couple minutes(dont want to fry my brand new starter) but still nothing.
hopefully it will fire up soon and I can take it for a shakedown run today.
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#55
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 11 Apr, 2009 18:22
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hey, you should try and get an intake mani off a 85 or newer 8 valve. they have the intake on the other side. then you could shorten up your boost pipes a ton. and it would simplify plumbing so much. i put a mk2 intake on my car first, but didnt like it at first because it was kind of close to the shock tower, but then i put the mk1 intake on it thinking it would be better to plumb, but i ended up taking it back off and putting the mk2 unit back on. im not trying to push you to change it, but it would probably be a ton easier to plumb.
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#56
by
truckinwagen
on 11 Apr, 2009 18:23
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well, still no start, I pulled the head to replace the HG for a fiber one(a little more forgiving in the flatness department) only to find that I was sent a TDI HG not an AAZ one, there is no provision for sealing around the prechablers, which might have been part of my problem.
I am at this point fairly sure that the motor was loosing too much compression out the gasket to fire properly, as the fuel system was timed and primed properly and the starter was turning it plenty fast.
so CRAPA has a fiber gasket coming for me on monday, we will see how that pans out.
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#57
by
Turbinepowered
on 12 Apr, 2009 03:09
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If it still doesn't fire with the fresh gasket, make sure your pump isn't timed 180* out. It won't fire like that.
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#58
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 12 Apr, 2009 11:31
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dont you have to have the cam plate in upside down to make it timed 180* out? cause theres only one mark on the pulley, and it has a key way.
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#59
by
Turbinepowered
on 12 Apr, 2009 12:29
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dont you have to have the cam plate in upside down to make it timed 180* out? cause theres only one mark on the pulley, and it has a key way.
But there are two locking pin holes on the sprocket. You're right there is only one mark, but it seems to be an awfully common occurrence in these "no start argh!" situations.
