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Vacuum Pump delete
by
gilligan5000
on 26 Jan, 2009 13:55
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I know it has been brought up before, but there seems to be this plume of mystery surrounding the topic.
My goal: clean up the engine bay as much as possible. In order to do so, the brake booster is gone.
Questions - Would it be possible to delete the vacuum pump altogether? How crutial is it to have vacuum on the block? Could I just use a breather filter on the block connection instead?
If it is possible to remove the vacuum pump...how?
Unfortunately, we can't use the 16v trick because the diesel intermediate shaft and oil pump spin the other way, but would it be possible to just hack off the top of the vacuum pump? (rendering it useless, but keeping the gears in place so that the oil pump will still work, giving me the look I'm going for)
If you have any thoughts or insight please post up
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#1
by
truckinwagen
on 26 Jan, 2009 14:04
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well, I did the same, but for other reasons.
I like non assist brakes and removing it frees up some HP(not much, but what the hey)
you will have to look at the pump to see if you can hack it up or not, I just took it apart and gutted the internals to render it useless, still sticks up out of the block, but does nothing.
the other thing you can do is find an oil pump drive gear from an early diesel that came without vacuum assist brakes, but this may be hard to do as they are rare.
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#2
by
the caveman
on 26 Jan, 2009 15:51
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On the industrial engines they just cover the hole with a flat round plate. Same dimensions as the base of the pump and held on by the same type of fork.
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#3
by
RabbitJockey
on 26 Jan, 2009 15:56
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is the gear requiered for the oil pump? i wonder myself if a small eletric vacuum pump could keep up with the brakes so that i could free up some room in the engine bay myself. i can get small 12v pumps from work.
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#4
by
truckinwagen
on 26 Jan, 2009 16:26
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the issue is that you still need the gear to drive the oil pump, and it needs some kind of shaft to spin on.
the non power brake cars had a little holder that had the gear on a shaft that just looked like a block off plate from the outside.
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#5
by
gilligan5000
on 27 Jan, 2009 05:40
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wow...called the GAP and got some part numbers for a 79' ck diesel rabbit (no vacuum brakes)...
068103113B - cover for where the pump should go - $7.70 - available
068115027B - gear so that the oil pump still works - $312 - no availability
looks like I'll be trying to hack apart the pump and use that gear...
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#6
by
myke_w
on 27 Jan, 2009 06:23
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You could look into a 2.0 16v setup and see how it's done on that car.
They ran the distributor on the head, so they had to cover the hole.
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#7
by
myke_w
on 27 Jan, 2009 06:25
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is the gear requiered for the oil pump? i wonder myself if a small eletric vacuum pump could keep up with the brakes so that i could free up some room in the engine bay myself. i can get small 12v pumps from work.
Yes, the int shaft turns the cab pump and the oil pump has a key slot on the top of the shaft that rides off the vac pump, you still have to have a way to transfer the motion from the int shaft.
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#8
by
arb
on 27 Jan, 2009 06:51
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is the gear requiered for the oil pump? i wonder myself if a small eletric vacuum pump could keep up with the brakes so that i could free up some room in the engine bay myself. i can get small 12v pumps from work.
The guys doing Electric Vehicle conversions run into this problem. Ideal was the vacuum pump assembly Ford used on their diesel cars as it was self contained. They are no longer available... The pump is only one piece of the problem. The other 2 are the vacuum reservoir and the vacuum switch. The switch usually cost about $150. This controls the pump. If you can get pumps for free, do they have the switch too ?
Here's my cousin's EV conversion of a Saturn.
http://www.evforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17
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#9
by
starrd
on 27 Jan, 2009 08:23
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#10
by
Vincent Waldon
on 27 Jan, 2009 08:43
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One thing to keep in mind that because the IM pulley is driven by the *back* of the timing belt on a diesel the IM shaft rotates in the opposite direction to a gasser, and the vacuum pump drive gear is cut appropriately so that oil pump rotates in the correct direction.
Not sure if any kind of modified distributor gear will mesh or drive the oil pump in the correct direction.... just a thought.
Vince
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#11
by
TedV
on 27 Jan, 2009 09:05
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x2 what Vince said. I looked into modifying a 16V hold down cover to a modified diesel gear. The gears on the intermediate shaft are different between gassers and diesel. I decided since the shaft rotation is trying to shove the vacuum pump gear up out of the motor (going by memory) that the risk of changing it and loosing oil pump was too great. I have an old non-working vacuum pump to keep the oil flowing. Used a small K&N style filter to keep crud from going into the vacuum pump.
I have seen some folks who made a 16V style plug with a diesel gear. No clue about longevity tho.
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#12
by
gilligan5000
on 27 Jan, 2009 11:58
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#13
by
Powered by Spearco
on 29 Jan, 2009 21:59
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Well, as it is, the "Dizzy Gizzy" conversion from BBM will not work for the diesel. We've got one at the shop.
Turns out, the hole in the block on a diesel is smaller than the plug used to block it off "2.0L ABA". Also the bushing in the block off cap is smaller than the diesel shaft, only fits gasser shafts and gasser gears.
Now one could machine down the cap to fit the block and you could cut off the shaft of a diesel vacuum pump and machine it down to fit the cap bushing. Then it would all work. But I think its more of a fuss and plus the price of the convesion parts plus the machine work to make it work.
I thought you'ld might like to know.
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#14
by
fatmobile
on 29 Jan, 2009 23:58
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fspGTD did this to his Rabbit.
A search should find some tips about changing the brake peddle connection, what oil pump he used and how he capped it.