Ah yes. The stubborn piece that won't move, seemingly installed by some dude with at least 8 knuckles per finger to get parts into those oh-so-tight spaces.
One of my brake lines suffered a spiral fracture yesterday (again), and had to use my handy female easy-outs to remove it on the nuts on the M/C...there is a lovely assortment of these now at Sears, and probably one small enough to grab that stud. Then you'll be able to use serious leverage to spin that puppy free:
Cheers,
Andy
I've used torx sockets to do the same job if the stud isn't too destroyed yet?
On the belt tracking issue, I put a new timing belt on today and it tracks perfectly down the middle of the pulleys. The old belt must've been unevenly worn (I tried loosening the tensioner with the old belt, but it didn't fix the problem).
I also had a hard time getting the old tensioner off. Luckily I had a couple spare nuts of the right size to fit the tensioner stud, so I was able to double-nut the stud out. However, the original tensioner occupied a lot of space on the stud. In order to get two nuts on there sufficiently, I had to grind them both down a bit so they were slimmer. It was a bit of a pain for something that should be so simple. Then, when I went to put the new tensioner on, since it takes up less length on the stud, the shoulder on the stud stuck out and made it impossible to tighten down on the tensioner. I had to put some washers in there as spacers in order to get the tensioner firmly tightened. It all worked out in the end... but it was a pain.
hey sissy...pull the pump and remove the mount bracket. Install a new OEM mount bushing it, and install a new pump housing if you can't get the broken bolt out of the old one. Any other questions?
GODDAMMIT I'M OUTTA BEER
That last bolt hiding behind the injector pump is gettable with crescent or ess spanners. The wandering belt is sometimes due to the conical nut dropping off from the underside of the injection pump.
