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#15
by
jtanguay
on 13 Oct, 2008 22:36
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i'm interested in seeing how that turbo works for you... the subaru engines make max hp @ much higher revs than these motors see normally... my best guess is that the low end will suffer a bit more than having a K24 or T3
nice project though! you might run into problems having the intercooler behind the rad as pointed out above. you need to create an air tight seal between the rad & intercooler, otherwise the cooling efficiency of the rad will be diminished. air will be drawn from around the rad and not through the rad (you won't notice this while going at speed, but at a traffic light, etc, you will...) i've been contemplating water intercooling myself... as you can get a really skinny rad to go in front with a lot of surface area for cooling. a little more complicated though to get all the pump temp controlled etc...
these motors are very fun to play around with :twisted:
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#16
by
Jet A
on 14 Oct, 2008 12:38
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looks like if i cut the core support i can make room on the driver side in front of the radiator. of course this will be some serious plumbing. may have to buy some more pvc.....ok, ok, aluminum pipe.
still gunna get you that pic of the housing willys
forgot to mention, i have looked at getting the turbo retrimed if it doesnt work better with more fuel. very reasonable priced.
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#17
by
arb
on 15 Oct, 2008 08:27
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Have you moved your IC yet ? If not, I would be cutting metal in front of the radiator to make it fit - maybe extend the bumper 4" to give you room. The fascia could be modified to move the grill out some. Right now I could not call it an inter cooler, but an inter heater ;-) Your air will be about 180 F :-(
Has anyone measured the intake air on a turbo w/o an IC ?
If this is not what you want, how about a really radical idea ? Move the IC INTO the hood - cut a hole in the hood directly over the space where the IC would be if you rotated it 90 degrees where it is now. Mount it IN the hood flat, with a good scoop over it. Plumb it with flexible heat resistant hose like McMaster-Carr has with pt # 5398K13 "Crushproof Rubber Duct Hose for Exhaust Fumes 3" ID, 3-1/2" OD, Black, 11' Length" or smaller - I can't see what size your IC is. Anyway that would give you all the room under the hood for the vitals and be unique !!
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#18
by
jtanguay
on 15 Oct, 2008 09:06
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air/water setups generally take less room. as the rad up front can be quite thin, and less plumbing :wink:
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#19
by
arb
on 15 Oct, 2008 09:25
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#20
by
79rabbit4dr
on 16 Oct, 2008 15:32
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Here's another idea for you on moving your IC - yeah its on a Japanese ride, but the idea is there - you could make a guard to protect against curb encounters..
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/turbo_projects/CX_hatch/
I like the hood mount idea better, then again, it's easy for me to say cause I don't have to chop my hood or pay for parts.
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#21
by
Jet A
on 16 Oct, 2008 15:45
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I am exploring the hood mount.
Also, after some testing. I can get my water temp to about 230, my egts will hit 1400 if i dont lift, and my turbo lights about 3500rpm, and hits about 15 psi.
Gunna try to get some more fuel in there with a little more timing to help the egts and light that turbo. so far, i am happy with the power. There is not a hill that slows me down. once i get the water methonal, that should be fun.
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#22
by
Smokey Eddy
on 16 Oct, 2008 15:53
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I 100% agree with Arb.
But, cutting the hood and building a scoop to fit your IC would be difficult, to say the least...
You would need a method of detaching it easily OR a way of holding it in place - raised off the cam bleeder. the plumbing would be pretty straight forward though wouldn't it?
I like the hood idea but i think for performance Arb's link to the japo car is a best bet because of the air flow you would achieve and sarcrifice with a hood mount. (unless you had a huuuge scoop)
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#23
by
8v-of-fury
on 17 Oct, 2008 17:10
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its adjusting the idle as well. do i just back down the idle screw then?
Yeah, if you screw in the fuel screw to much you'll run out of idle adjustment, also if you crank the fuel screw in to much then it'll run away like dillenger1 said.
Quick question.. When you guys are talking about turning up the fuel screw and you say that if you do it.. the engine could start to run away.. what do you mean? like it will rev uncontrollably??
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#24
by
rabbitman
on 17 Oct, 2008 18:10
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Quick question.. When you guys are talking about turning up the fuel screw and you say that if you do it.. the engine could start to run away.. what do you mean? like it will rev uncontrollably??
Yup, it happened to me once, I had the idle set at 2000 so I could check the internal IP pressure and then I blipped the smoke pedal a bit and that thing took off. I thought it was blowby type runaway so I almost got out and yanked the breather hose off but then I turned the key off first just in case it was the missadjusted idle speed......it was. :roll:
Anyways I don't understand all about it but I think the throttle only controls the governor, which from what I understand is a low speed and high speed governor. So with the tranny in neutral once you push the pedal enough to get past the idle governor it'll rev all the way to the high speed governor. You gotta have the idle set low enough so it'll slow down when you let off the gas.
If I'm wrong hopefully someone'll chime in.
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#25
by
8v-of-fury
on 17 Oct, 2008 19:02
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WOW! these things are so much more liek in depth than i expected! thats insane.. so really your peddle is just allowing the engine to speed up its revs indirectly.. the peddle isnt directly making the car rev up!?
this is blowing my mind.... diesels are weird! LOL Like if the idle is set to high it will just keep going till it reaches its high governer.. but if you have it set low enough it will make it fall back down to idel.. so weird..
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#26
by
rabbitman
on 17 Oct, 2008 23:04
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so really your peddle is just allowing the engine to speed up its revs indirectly.. the peddle isnt directly making the car rev up!?
Directly indirect, the pedal controls the governor which controls the fueling. :?
There are lots of better writeups by other more knowledgeable people on this site and on
www.vwdieselparts.comDo some searches on both sites and you'll have enough to read for at least a year. :wink:
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#27
by
Jet A
on 18 Oct, 2008 16:41
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I 100% agree with Arb.
But, cutting the hood and building a scoop to fit your IC would be difficult, to say the least...
You would need a method of detaching it easily OR a way of holding it in place - raised off the cam bleeder. the plumbing would be pretty straight forward though wouldn't it?
I like the hood idea but i think for performance Arb's link to the japo car is a best bet because of the air flow you would achieve and sarcrifice with a hood mount. (unless you had a huuuge scoop)
I have been trying to photoshop various hoodscoops. Not sure if i can justify it. Maybe if i turn my downpipe over and make a stack? I have the intercooler, because i got a good deal on it. i will make it work someway. no point in spending 500-800 on IC and piping, when i have something that can work.
I would probably hard mount it to the car and have the hood seal against it. Hood scoop doesnt look to bad, its just so far foward i think it looks kinda silly.