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NA.....now a TD w/ some pics by Jet A on 11 Oct, 2008 21:35
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So i got ALOT done on the golf this weekend. have a big shipment from autohaus and rockauto, i was able to get something accomplished.
I ended up tapping the water pump housing for cool water, and the return line goes to just below the expansion tank.
Oil comes from the top of the filter housing and returns to the tank.
Pistons are ceramic coated, freshly re ringed. Head is rebuilt, injecters have mercedes nozzles w/ 140bar pop pressure
Turbo is a td04 off an 02 wrx. has been rebuilt by me.
I ended up mounting the turbo 90 out of the exhaust manifold. all of the piping is 304ss and the flanges were laser cut. Gaskets are made from 20gauge 304ss anealed. There are about 20hrs fabrication into this, and about the same into "Design".
The intake is drilled and tapped w/ 2 1/8 npt. one for boost gauge, the other for nitrous. Water methonal will be injected post intercooler, and is set to an egt, and hobbs pressure switch.
The 90 degree el for the up pipe is 304ss schd 40 pipe, and has a bung welded on it for the pyro. Down pipe allows for the wastegate to have a separate out let, to help effiecency. Exhaust will be 3" straight. 416 ss
Intercooler is out of a wrx as is not plumbed in yet. waiting on ebay piping to get here. will be blocking off the blow off valve port as this is not needed.
Oil cooler is mounted to the front of the radiatior and the sandwhich will supply the oil to the cooler, as well as the pick up for the pressure and the temp sender.
Will be buying studs and metal hg as soon as this one blows, or the motor proves itself to me
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#1 by 53 willys on 11 Oct, 2008 22:29
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Nice work!!!
that intake looks REAL nice!
how bout some pics of the turbo coolant lines??? I would like to see how you tapped the water pump???
I got a K26 turbo and I am about to plumb the coolant lines...I think I am just gonna grab the pressurized coolant from the head outlet....I know it will be hot water....but it should still be 30*-40* cooler then the engine oil so it will help/aid with turbo cooling either way....the turbo coolant return line will be on the suction side of the water pump...
nice work!
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#2 by bert on 12 Oct, 2008 01:53
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could i ask why your not using a TD pump?
Bert -
#3 by smoken u on 12 Oct, 2008 05:52
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you running a cooling fan? sweet setup on the intercooler, looking to do mine soon so I'm getting plenty of ideas.
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#4 by blkboostedtruck on 12 Oct, 2008 06:42
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you might want to consider putting the I.C. in front of the radiator and not behind you want the coolest transfer of your charge air for max H.P.!
Duane -
#5 by shegel on 12 Oct, 2008 09:09
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Quote from: "bert"
could i ask why your not using a TD pump?
my guess is that its a n/a block and he doesnt want to overheat stuffs. keeping with hte n/a pump is an easy way to not overfuel the car and kill it.
Bert
or....
he doesnt have the td pump -
#6 by blkboostedtruck on 12 Oct, 2008 10:11
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Quote from: "shegel"Quote from: "bert"
could i ask why your not using a TD pump?
my guess is that its a n/a block and he doesnt want to overheat stuffs. keeping with hte n/a pump is an easy way to not overfuel the car and kill it.
Bert
or....
he doesnt have the td pump
thats a turbo pump it's a echo pump witch has no LDA like a tru TD pump
if it is a echo pump that has a small pump head on it 8mm! you would get better HP with a real TD pump then that pump you should look into a better pump after all that nice work you have done! you will notice the performance difference between the two!
Duane -
#7 by Jet A on 12 Oct, 2008 13:16
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Thanks for the comments.
I do not have a TD pump, because i dont have one....yet. Funds arent unlimited. I want to get the motor broke in and rolling so i know she will hold. then the pump goes to giles, and probably do some studs. I am running a elecric fan in front of the radiator. THere is no room for the intercooler in front, while i would like to put it there, it is more economical for me to put it behind. cooling of the motor is #1 priority, so at higher speeds, and higher boost, i there should be enough to cool the air. It is a thick intercooler, of decent quality so i am hoping.
Willys, I didnt tap the pump, i tapped the housing. In order to do that, you must remove the alternater and bracket, in order to move the bracket, you need to bring a 1/4 ratched with a wobble, 13mm socket, and a lot of swear words! unless you move the IP. I tapped the hole with a 3/8 npt, just above the 3 pipe coming into the housing. I will post a pic of that later tonight. But it is pretty easy to do. i actually d&t my broken housing, test fited, and then bolted up the real one. -
#8 by Duster 5.9 on 12 Oct, 2008 18:15
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Quote from: "blkboostedtruck"
you might want to consider putting the I.C. in front of the radiator and not behind you want the coolest transfer of your charge air for max H.P.!
Duane
I also agree with this, but hey it is your project. i personally would try the intercooler infront and a larger fan behind. otherwise to me the intercooler was a waste of your precious time and money, but again it is your project. Yea i do agree it does look good, hope it works out too. I like the intake also, it shows off your willingness to go with a change which in most cases is good
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#9 by Smokey Eddy on 13 Oct, 2008 02:17
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I absoluuuuteeely LOVE that downpipe.... I don't know why, maybe because its massive?
Totally sucks about the IC :cry: i know how you feel about the room issue
I'm having to try and cut and tig my volvo one (that i got for 20 bucks
) to make non-plastic sides and make it double thick/half as tall and put it in the big front euro bumper and somehow plumb down there.
You know what you should do :wink:
:!: anyone can RIPPP on me for this ... :!:
make a subaru style hoodscoop IC
I've considered it A LOT. It would be soooooo coool! like an impreza WRX or the 2.5L XT outbacks.
I've practiced cutting hoods (not vw hoods dont worry!) and figureing out sealing it. Unfortunately it would have to be offset due to the height of the engine (im not a fan of offset) but it would work, and work well IMO. Short plumbing & good flow if you have(or make!) a good/BIGG scoop -
#10 by Jet A on 13 Oct, 2008 07:10
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I also looked at top mounting the IC, not enough clearence, or access to other vitals..
I am going to pull the radiator tonight, and see if i can massage the IC into place. unfortunatly, i think with the ypipe outlets in the postion they are, the IC will sit to low, and be suseptable to damage.
Took it for some playing around on the hills last night....definatly more peppy. But i need more fuel. I can build around 8psi...and the wastegate is not dumping. the turbo doesnt lite till approx 3500-4000rpm. which was to be expected. i was just hoping for a bit more boost. 8psi i s a little low. Going to look into a smaller impeller or a larger turbine. At least see whats out there to remap this turbo. No egt gauge yet, but there was no smoke, mostly a haze, so i am confident i am not OVERfueling. I need to figure out how to get more fuel out of my stock pump for little money so i can justify a super pump.
I was proud of the down pipe. The turn out on the second elbow was a PITA to weld and not warp that flange. that was about 6 sets of welds over two hrs to keep the heat down. -
#11 by rabbitman on 13 Oct, 2008 12:09
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As for egts, mine is a NA with the fuel turned up all the way and I can only get up to 1150F. The probe is about 2 inches from the head.
It's weird though, sometimes it'll smoke thick black clouds out and other times it barely smokes at all. I blamed it on outside air temp :roll:
Anyways with the IP you have I really doubt you can hurt it with the turbo and big exhaust.
Nice job! -
#12 by Jet A on 13 Oct, 2008 14:05
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I havent played with the pump yet. Still trying to figure everything out on it. I turned the fuel screw in a little bit till it started. I dont understand the fuel screw. its adjusting the idle as well. do i just back down the idle screw then?
Im looking into a bigger pump head, or a bigger pump....giles? -
#13 by dillenger1 on 13 Oct, 2008 15:17
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carefull with that thing!the flyweights will govern the idle with the fuel screw turned in.As soon as you pull the throttle lever it could take off.At least thats what happened to my 10mm head.
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#14 by rabbitman on 13 Oct, 2008 21:17
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Quote
its adjusting the idle as well. do i just back down the idle screw then?
Yeah, if you screw in the fuel screw to much you'll run out of idle adjustment, also if you crank the fuel screw in to much then it'll run away like dillenger1 said.