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#210
by
theman53
on 20 Aug, 2010 14:29
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That is just it, my extension wire did not screw in. It just slid in. I tried to crimp it and it wouldn't do it, hence the is it ok to solider.
I think I will solider on some spades if no one says not to. At least that way it is still removable. Or hopefully someone like andrew will know since I am using his wire and the same probe and gauge he is, and he will tell me what to do.
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#211
by
Vincent Waldon
on 20 Aug, 2010 14:37
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In general soldering is *not* recommended for thermocouple wire... the reason being you're adding dissimilar metals to the junction... every one of which becomes its own little thermocouple which then adds inaccuracy to the system.
In the ideal world you'd use the same two metals all the way thru the system... using crimp connectors made of the same two different metals found in the thermocouple wire... one for each side... all the way to the gauge. The terminals on the gauge itself would be made of those same two different metals... in industrial situations they are.
However, we're not in the ideal world, and the temperature at the main junction (the actual thermocouple) is much greater than the temperature at all the other connections.. so we can get by with a few dissimilar metal junctions... including the ones at the gauge terminal itself. The idea is to minimize them. So, many folks have good luck bolting the bare wires together at the junction(s) with small machine screws and washers... if done right you're forcing the two metals to only touch each other and the errors are minimized. Bolt 'em together with machine screws/washers and then weather-protect with electricians tape or heat-shrink tubing.
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#212
by
theman53
on 20 Aug, 2010 14:48
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Thanks Vince. I figured that solidering was bad.
I did bolt my thermocouple to the K type lead and did all you mentioned above. Then I went and wrapped it with firesleeve from BEE GEE. My problem is down the K type wire to the gauge extension wire, it doesn't want to stay put. I can't crimp it tight enough as there is no give in the k type lead and the extension from the gauge won't crush completely around it.
Basically, I figure there is a really simple solution I am over looking as a newb on EGT gauges. I might be putting the wire on wrong or something. I am just butting them together...help
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#213
by
fatmobile
on 20 Aug, 2010 21:08
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The westach had a gauge extention wire?
I just wire-wrapped Libbybapa's wire around the post on the back of the egt gauge.
Got a pic of the back of the gauge?
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#214
by
theman53
on 21 Aug, 2010 05:20
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I will get a pic, but yes the westach gauge had an extension wire that you put on the back of the gauge. It was only about a foot or a little more long. It has ends on it that look like you can crimp, but it isn't happening. I think what I will do is cut them off and wrap them around the k type lead and then heat shrink them
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#215
by
theman53
on 21 Aug, 2010 05:32
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Then here is a pic of the back of the Gauge, obviously the top middle.
I don't have the extension wire in the pic. It just looks like 18-22 gauge wire with round almost bullet style connectors though.
and here is the distructions on how to install.
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#216
by
theman53
on 28 Aug, 2010 21:42
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I got the EGT figured out...
Here is some Hard Core VW porn
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=106377792I am happier than a two faliced billy goat. I have started it 5 times and have some leaks that i think are fixed now. Tomorrow I will put a seat in it and run it around the farm. I need exhaust pretty bad, but it is quieter than my N/As that I have had with nothing but a 3" downpipe.
Thanks to all on this forum for helping me. Especially Dakotakid, for getting me parts/advice for the cost of shipping, 53 willys for the turbo adaptor and stuff, and GeeBee for the cheap stuff too. Andrew and Vince for all various knowledge and the EGT wire. And everyone else for the various posts that made me think more and do some things different than what I would have.
This isn't the end. But a MILESTONE for the 3 year on/off build. My butt was puckered when I first hit the starter. More Video to come later
slight difference
I hate the fact that the intake was supposed to go on a HONDA. Some 200.00 intake summit had in the bargin bin for 50.00. I bought it just for the filter, but used all of it:D
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#217
by
GEE-BEE
on 29 Aug, 2010 06:56
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I have the coolant hose from the pump to the head in silicone
068121053E
need one
black-Blue, red or yellow...
let Me Know
Gee-Bee
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#218
by
theman53
on 29 Aug, 2010 17:58
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Let me know how much Gee Bee
I have an issue. I can't get the heater fan to work. I am looking through bentley and no luck. I have traced all wires that I know, but it seems some aren't there. I have 2 plugs in the wiring harness in the dash and I can't find where they go. Anybody have any pics of MKII heater box and all the wiring involved? Please help, dash is out and I can't go on with out it.
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#219
by
lord_verminaard
on 01 Sep, 2010 07:52
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Congrats on getting it running! I know that feeling of "oh crap is this going to work or not!!!" and then the big "whew" after it starts purring. Which quickly changes back to "oh crap, what's that leak!?!?" as you dive for the ignition key.
Fun stuff!
About the heater- the plug to the fan control switch is a goofy looking one if I remember, nothing else in the dash will fit it. There is a fuse for it, check that first, then check the fan itself- use a couple jumper wires to a battery at the fan plug to see if it will physically spin. When they go bad, sometimes they will turn so slowly that they don't produce any air. (I had to replace the one in the Golf)
Gotta be something easy, there isn't much in the fan circuit.
Brendan
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#220
by
GEE-BEE
on 01 Sep, 2010 09:30
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22.50 with clamps 068121053 E
The upper hose 191 101 ak ( 91 jetta 1.6 a/c radiator )and the lower hose 533121051 a ( Scirocco 16 v a/c ) fit's better since it has a 90 degree down bend are going into production
Std install on 975 mm radiator
GB
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#221
by
theman53
on 01 Sep, 2010 15:00
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Congrats on getting it running! I know that feeling of "oh crap is this going to work or not!!!" and then the big "whew" after it starts purring. Which quickly changes back to "oh crap, what's that leak!?!?" as you dive for the ignition key. Fun stuff!
About the heater- the plug to the fan control switch is a goofy looking one if I remember, nothing else in the dash will fit it. There is a fuse for it, check that first, then check the fan itself- use a couple jumper wires to a battery at the fan plug to see if it will physically spin. When they go bad, sometimes they will turn so slowly that they don't produce any air. (I had to replace the one in the Golf)
Gotta be something easy, there isn't much in the fan circuit.
Brendan
Yeah, the fan worked perfectly before on HIGH only. I replaced the resistor, but in the year since I removed the heater box I must have missed a wire or two. It won't even work on high so something other than the resistor is bad.
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#222
by
GEE-BEE
on 01 Sep, 2010 17:03
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068121053 E Coolant Hose ( pump to head ) IS A 1/2 LONGER PER JACK'S BUILD
I just finished all the hoses for a vanagon tdi build ( van-Cafe )
vanagon uses the same hose
GB
Ohh yeah advise color: red, Blue, Black
includes s/s lined clamp
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#223
by
theman53
on 02 Sep, 2010 04:22
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I would like one, but don't send it until you know for sure that the south american stuff is going to get ordered. I will probably go with black, but I will think about it. How resistant are the hoses to oil and fuel?
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#224
by
GEE-BEE
on 02 Sep, 2010 08:19
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Silicone is standard equipment on all catapillar motors and the girls here at the beach
No problem I rub all different kinds of oil on them and no problems...
5 Ply lay up
GB
I also have the turbo to manifold inlet duct ( oem) 122.00
32.50 with clamps