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#75 by jbg on 24 Oct, 2008 16:43
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Quote from: "arb"
Yes, that is what I am doing. I am going to use my dial indicator to true them in the car rather than v-blocks. I'm not looking for speed beyond 75 mph.
I like inner CV joints on the VW better than the Chrysler version, mainly due to the way they bolt to the trans rather than slipping into the transaxel. The Chrysler wheel bearing assembly is designed for higher loads, though.
While the idea of splicing the axles is cool, there is an easier solution. The first iteration of the Dodge Omni / Plymouth Horizon had a 1.7L VW engine. This was mated to a 4-speed VW (Chrysler code A412) transaxle. The axles used were VW bolt-into-the-trans on one end, and Chrysler splined stubs on the other. These allowed the VW transaxle to work with the standard Chrysler hubs. These hubs are the same as whats on the first generation Caravan.
According to the Advance Auto web site, the 1.7L engine was an option on the Omni from 1979-1983, the axles are described as such:
Part number: 603004 "CV Half-Shaft Assembly: Remanufactured; Front; Left; With Manual Transmission (Vw-A412) Transmission; Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" Are Found On The "Body Code" Plate."
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603004.jpg
Part number: 603005 "CV Half-Shaft Assembly: Remanufactured; Front; Right; With Manual Transmission (Vw-A412) Transmission; Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" Are Found On The "Body Code" Plate."
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603005.jpg
Granted, these are $75.00 each, but they are new and shiney! Hope this helps someone. BTW, awesome project! -
#76 by arb on 25 Oct, 2008 21:48
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WOW !! WOW !!!! WOW !!!!!!!
Thanks Dude !!! I had no idea about this. If the spacing to the outers with my K frame works, all the better !!
Thanks again !!! -
#77 by jbg on 26 Oct, 2008 14:18
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Quote from: "arb"
WOW !! WOW !!!! WOW !!!!!!!
Thanks Dude !!! I had no idea about this. If the spacing to the outers with my K frame works, all the better !!
Thanks again !!!
Hey my pleasure, I hope it helps. Be sure to double check my assumptions about the axles. It might be that the Caravan had axles that were slightly different (longer) from the Omni. I figured in the very least it might get you looking at the Chrysler parts for ideas.
Also, the previously mentioned Dodge Omni / Plymouth Horizon used a hybrid motor mount setup. The Chrysler-side bolts to the car, and of course the VW-side to the engine. So I'd assume if you can find the part number to these mounts you would be in business.
The mounts will be harder to find then the axles. The mount "inserts" can be found at an auto parts store, for example:
"Engine Mount: Front; 1 Required Per Vehicle", PN 2733.
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/anh/2733.jpg
Or the insert and the mount together:
"Engine Mount: Front Right; 1 Required Per Vehicle", PN 2600.
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/anh/2600.jpg
"Engine Mount: Front (Insert For 2733); 1 Required Per Vehicle", PN 2447
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/anh/2447.jpg
Transaxle mount:
"Manual Transmission Mount: Trans (Insert For 2734); 1 Required Per Vehicle", PN 2721.
What I'm not sure is whether the Chrysler-side of the engine mounts are standard Chryser Omni|Horizon|K-car|Caravan issue, or if they're specific to the 1.7L application. Keep up the good work! -
#78 by arb on 26 Oct, 2008 15:57
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OK, minor problem if I want to know how many miles I've driven and my MPG (GPS will give me speed) - The caravan trans speedo sending unit is of a different size than the mechanical VW connection...
So, I need to get a VW cluster with mechanical drive. I have a NEW extra vac pump I'd like to trade with someone for a VW cluster - Speedo and Tach. Any one interested ?
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#79 by arb on 27 Oct, 2008 19:48
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OK, maybe I should keep the new Vac pump for when I wear out this one ;-)
Tonight I fab'd the linkage brackets for the shifter. Here is the bracket Chrysler used. It is a very good starting place - I almost fell to the siren call of making all from scratch :-P
I cut them apart and used the differential screws for one of the existing holes. I drilled a second and the cable for pulling and pushing the shifter was actually the right size. It needed a travel of 3 5/8" to 4 3/4" - not much for the side to side motion of the shifter in the H pattern. The other bracket for selecting up neutral or down on the shifter had a 5" to 8" max travel. This translates to twisting the shifter on the VW trans. The VW linkage had a travel of slightly less than that. Again, I almost made my own !! Instead, I drilled a 1/4"-20 hole about 7/8" down the linkage for the correct travel. I used a S.S. bolt with locking nut. The Chrysler linkage cable end goes over this nicely. Maybe for this one I will need a collar to prevent wear.
The push - pull ball I drilled out from the bottom for the 1/4"-20 bolt. As you can see, this should work out nicely.
I found a 2" flexible S.S. joint at Autozone for $24. When I asked about the warranty, I could not help but laugh when he said Life Time. They did not ask for the car, so I'm sure I will get my money's worth :-)
Next will be running the new fuel line - I think I'll only run new supply line. After than is hanging the modified tank. -
#80 by arb on 28 Oct, 2008 10:58
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Quote from: "jbg"
While the idea of splicing the axles is cool, there is an easier solution. The first iteration of the Dodge Omni / Plymouth Horizon had a 1.7L VW engine. This was mated to a 4-speed VW (Chrysler code A412) transaxle. The axles used were VW bolt-into-the-trans on one end, and Chrysler splined stubs on the other. These allowed the VW transaxle to work with the standard Chrysler hubs. These hubs are the same as whats on the first generation Caravan.
Very good information. When the ones I spice are worn out, I'll buy these new ones. I'm certain I'll still have to splice as the First gen K car Omni has a max (rear ?) track of 1.425 m vs. my Second generation K car - Caravan's front track of 1.521 m - that's a difference of at least 3.7 inches. At best I move the engine to one side and add the 3.7" to the driver's side, which would improve the CV speeds a little. -
#81 by arb on 29 Oct, 2008 07:16
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I started the plumbing of the turbo fresh air side last night... I have to cut the aluminum tubes next and will replace the black rubber at some point, but I have the hoses clamped to the turbo. The suction side will be cut short as I think it could collapse if I use a long run of the 2" hose.
I also got my gas cap changed to a "diesel" cap. I had a new one with a cam style. My filler tube is the current style of the screw in type. I saw the caps were compatible other than this part, so I took them apart and switched the outer most part. Now I have the modern type that will not allow you to over tighten it.
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#82 by rallydiesel on 29 Oct, 2008 07:35
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Jeebus, that's a lot of work for a Caravan. :shock:
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#83 by arb on 29 Oct, 2008 09:32
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Quote from: "rallydiesel"
Jeebus, that's a lot of work for a Caravan. :shock:
LOL ! That's why my wife calls it my mistress. But, with a rust free body and a very comfortable ride - you sit a lot higher than in a VW, I think its worth it to do it right so I can drive it for many many years. Besides, phase 2 will be to get an AWD rear end from another Caravan and put an Advanced DC 9.1" series wound motor on it for hybrid drive. Wish I had the money to do it the year as the tax credit expires this year. -
#84 by arb on 29 Oct, 2008 12:24
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Quote from: "libbybapa"Quote from: "rallydiesel"
Jeebus, that's a lot of work for a Caravan. :shock:
I'm more into the vanagons. Bolt-in TD. Only significant difference being rear wheel drive. But still, I had a Caravan 9 years ago and thought it was great, and it's only work if it's not fun. Great project and thanks for sharing it with us.
Andrew
Thanks !! It is a real passion working on my own diesel again. Part of it is having something no one in the US has. Also, it really yacks me that the world record holder for a production car with a standard tank going the furthest (1077 miles) is a Chrysler Town & Country diesel, but they will not sell it here. So, I get an even better version as it will be VW powered.
If I had the money, I would get a Vanagon Syncro and do the 1.9 TD for it !! -
#85 by arb on 31 Oct, 2008 09:17
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Started to fab the intake system last night. I had bought a K & N wet filter to use. Yes, it was designed for a truck with 4 - 5 times the displacement, but I want my turbo to breath easy and I liked the low profile of the filter for its size.
I cut some of the 2" ID aluminum tube that will be most of the intake to the turbo. I need to make a reducer from the 3.5" ID the filter has. I saw some nice silicone reducers on siliconeintakes.com that zukgod1 posted, but I don't want to wait !! I had to use a pipe expander to get them formed close to that I need.
But it was not going to happen tonight. I have a really nice Miller auto welding helmet, but it has not seen the light of day in so long the internal battery that is only charged by the solar cells was flat. No welding for me last night. So, I start to make the new fuel supply line out of 5/16" coated brake line. I sealed the joins with Seal-All as it is fuel and oil proof. I know it is not required, but I don't want a vac leak years from now.
The helmet is currently on the Kitchen table soaking up the rays ! -
#86 by arb on 03 Nov, 2008 21:59
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Today was fuel systems day.. Here is the stock supply, vent, and return side:
I ran new supply side lines of sealed 5/16" coated lines, here you see the aluminum foiled protected line..
One of the strange things I completely disagree with the Chrysler engineer with is the tank filling tube seal. It is a rubber grommet that has no compression other than that of the fill tube that is rammed into it.
Here you can see the vapor and return lines. Notice the vapor lines are capped. The EPA would freak is this was a gasser. More on this later...
Next is the very out dated Leaded fuel blocking port. Now, tell me, how long do the gasser people need to pay for this feature ? It has been illegal to sell leaded gas in the USA for decades.
Here is the free flow of fuel oil thanks to a sharp wood chisel...
Next was the EPA anti top-off ball. This had to go...
fuel oil does not evap like gasoline, and it can foam much more, so it had to go !!!
Lastly, since the vapor recovery system is of no value in a fuel oil system, I need a way for the air to fill the void from the used fuel oil... the stock cap is air tight, must go..
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#87 by arb on 05 Nov, 2008 07:20
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Last night we dropped the engine in the caravan, at least we tried to :-(
First my 12 yr old son and I finished the fuel system. The tank needed its filler tube installed and the sending unit wires connected. We did that and installed the Green fuel cap.
Next, we raised the engine / trans package... It all looked very good.
next we rolled the glider under the engine and started to lower it in.. all was good.
The passenger side engine mount came into contact with its base first.
Unfortunately, the trans mount still had several inches more to drop. It has good alignment otherwise.
What appears to have happened was I fabricated the engine mount to the deck of the side rails in the engine bay, and the engine mount rests on several inch high stand-offs that are on top of the side rails.
We pulled the engine back out. Over the next couple of days, I'll cut off the engine mount where it is welded / bolted to the 4" C channel I welded to the stock VW engine mount. I am thinking of using 2 flat steel plates with many holes predrilled so they can be position in many spots up and down, front to rear. -
#88 by arb on 05 Nov, 2008 08:03
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Wow, I see I need to change that turbo drain too.
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#89 by arb on 06 Nov, 2008 04:58
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I need to change the position of the passenger side engine mount. Here is a close up of what I had:
I cut the mount with the sawsall. The paper towel is to keep shavings from getting into the timing belt system.
I decided to have 2 flat plates with multiple locations for the bolts so it can be positioned in the best location for the CV joints and exhaust.