1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan

[arb]

I am several months into a project to make a real economy van. I have a 92' caravan w/ manual trans from Virginia (no rust) that I am putting a real engine / trans into. I'm documenting everything, including the most interesting so far - removing the power rack & pinion for a new manual rack & pinion :-)

One question, does anyone have a coolant system diagram from my 1982.5 turbo block ? I know the large hose on the bottom of the pump is for the bottom of the radiator, the large hose at the side of the head is the top radiator hose, but the other 3 I am not clear on - I'm guessing the small hose on the pump that connects to the steel tube is for the heater core return ? and the large hose at the end of the head (pointing to the trans) is for the header tank ?

[jtanguay]

have you seen the guy on youtube who has done the conversion???

[arb]

Yeah, Davesfarm. Interesting collection of videos he has. I found him searching for some validation of the project I started so my new wife would not think I was completely nuts about diesels ;-)

I had not thought to ask him this basic VW IDI question anyone with a IDI should know or at least see under their hood. The heater core inlet / outlet are not critical as long as I know which ones on the engine are for the heater core... this would leave the last unknown to go to the pressure tank :-)

[blkboostedtruck]

some pics. of your set up would help? the outlet on the transmission is for the heater core hose and then there is a steel prebent line that comes around from the water pump for a return or inlet one of the 2? also has a port for the resivore !
hope that helps?
Duane

[burn_your_money]

Not a 82  but pretty much the same

[arb]

Great !! I see now. Perfect.

One question ? Dodge has a coolant sut-off valve in the heater core as part of their design. What will happen to my head cooling if I keep the Dodge valve ? It looks like the end of the head will run hotter. Should I move the valve to a new line between 2 new "T"'s in the core lines - thus when it is open it will allow coolant to bypass the heater core ? Or, does VW have a similar valve inside the passenger compartment ?

[burn_your_money]

VW used that valve on the mk1s but have not used it since. There are still lots of MK1s driving around if that tells you anything

[arb]

Should I post photos ?

Thanks for the cooling chart. It all comes back to me now from my years of driving Rabbits & Jettas with the 1.5 / 1.6.

I installed a new tensioner / Good Year USA timing belt. I clocked everything by the book 7 times or so, but every time when I tried to rotate my engine before setting the injection, it felt like I was hitting a valve at 170 degrees in either direction....



So, I pulled the head. The # 2 cylinder has near TDC a valve that was nearly open in a humid environment - evidently because the carbon deposits at the head became coated with aluminum oxide from the piston and head. Here are a couple photos.

One of these chunks came loose and stacked on another offering the interference I felt. The glow plugs are out for this task.  I cleaned it up -  

[arb]

After torque the head bolts per the previous posts, I installed the new Goodyear timing belt and new idler following the same procedure I used 6 times before I pulled the head.

My engine now cycles smooth as silk !! I have photos of the carbon stack that preventing it from turning over before I pulled the head, after changing the belt. Mind you, it turned over fine before I pulled the original belt.

Here's my IP locking tool



Before I put the belt back on, I used a cordless drill and a socket to spin the intermediate shaft CCW to primp all the bearings. Worked great !!  It was not my idea, but from when I built Chevy small blocks. I allowed quite a bit of oil to flow from the cam - I might do the same when I get the new turbo plumbed. It came with an instruction sheet talking about putting my fingers into the intake of the turbo for the first start. They said to hold back the turbine for a few minutes to allow oil to circulate the TC.

I have a friend with half his ring finger ground off from putting it into a turbo.

[914turboford]

Do you have the engine installed in the van yet? Are you using the VW or Dodge trans?
Brian

[arb]

Hi Brian, I hope to have the engine in the van Sunday. First, the exhaust manifold I was sold by someone in Texas was not as he claimed - it was in fact a Audi 5 cyclinder.


I had to cut off the fifth runner can TIG weld it off with high carbon cast iron welding rod.



I still have to finish faboricating the manifold to turbo bracket. It is nearly complete, but I wanted to have the head / engine ready to install first. They are as of last night. The turbo exhaust manifold / down pipe I had to fab. Like the manifold / turbo, I used S.S. tube and S.S. TIG welding plus 1/4 plate tool steel.

The trans is the VW 5 speed w/ OD, I have to get the numbers off the trans as I forget which one I have.

I've been making photos of everything. Here is the turbo to manifold flange


Here is my turbo down-pipe - the inside tube for both is S.S.

[arb]

I'm getting close to having the new GT15 turbo mounted on the engine. I made the stupid mistake of drilling a hole in the exhaust manifold for a future EGT probe. Stupid because I used a cordless drill when I have a great drill press with 2 axis precision chuck. I even used the machinists drill starter. All was well. The first drill when all the way through without a problem. Then I stepped up the 5/16 bit the 1/8" NPT tap requires. Most of the way into the final cut, the bit snagged and I cracked my manifold !!!
 


Man was I pissed.  On to plan "B". So I TIG welded the hole and the crack with high carbon filler rod for repairing cast iron.  This was on the bottom of the manifold. Next I moved the manifold to the drill press and did the job properly. Tapping was un-remarkable. For the time being I have a 1/8" plug screwed into the hole at the junction of 1 - 2 runners. The threads I covered with red high temp RTV.



I ceramic spray coated the exterior of the manifold and mounted it with S.S. bolts and lock washers.

Tonight the final brackets get made for the Garrett. I have not finalized their shape yet. I had a 90 degree S.S. elbow half fabricated, but when I test mounted the turbo, it is too close to the half shaft. I started it this was as it would have made the setup more compact.

Here's one of the flanges I made to mount the GT15

[914turboford]

Are you splicing VW axles to Dodge axles? I did this in a 300hp 914 powered by a Ford 2.3t. I made mild steel couplers on my lathe, pressed in both axle halves and MIG welded them. I also drilled into the coupler and rosette welded. Then I put the shafts on V blocks with a dial indicator. I used my H press to true them to less tha .005" runout. I drove that car at over 130 mph with no discernable vibration.

[arb]

Yes, that is what I am doing. I am going to use my dial indicator to true them in the car rather than v-blocks. I'm not looking for speed beyond 75 mph.

I like inner CV joints on the VW better than the Chrysler version, mainly due to the way they bolt to the trans rather than slipping into the transaxel. The Chrysler wheel bearing assembly is designed for higher loads, though.

[914turboford]

I think that will work fine. However, you will also be measuring runout in the CV joints themselves. Also, if there is any play in the joints you may not get a good reading. I ended up with less than .005" runout but you could probably run 75mph with  .020 or so. I've made RWD (tubular) shafts with .035 and you could feel the vibration at freeway speeds (but CV shafts turn slower than RWD shafts).  I never balanced my solid shafts, I just put them on the lathe and turned down the couplers.