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#315 by arb on 28 Jul, 2009 08:00
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Hey arb how long does it take you to pull the head? You must be getting good at it lol? I assume the job is easier in the van?
Curious what type of abrasive and grit you use for lapping and how long it takes to flatten out 0.005"? Do you use a new piece of glass every time? How fast does the glass wear? Have you checked the flatness of a used piece of glass?
OMG !!! yes, I can go through every set, every bolt, in my sleep !! Yes, its much easier in the van. It was designed for a V-6 so there is lots of room. The only hard part last night was to remove the lower manifold bolts while the head was still on. The first time I pulled it as a set, but it is really heavy that way with the turbo hanging off the back of the cast iron manifold.
The glass is about 5/8" thick tempered safety glass. Yes, its flat. I clean it, then use a hot glue gun on the perimeter of 3 of the sides - it takes 2 sheet of 150 grit sand paper to cover the head with room to spare for sliding the head. I also put the glass on a flat table so there is no flexing. But, safety glass this thick doesn't move much. It takes only 10 minutes or so. Most of the material comes off in the first few minutes, then it is much slower as it becomes more of a polishing job with the sand paper loads up with carbon & aluminum. The glass does not wear as I have the sand paper glued to it. -
#316 by drrtybyl on 28 Jul, 2009 08:24
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Ye gads that alternator rides low! I guess the bigger wheels may help a little? Time for a lift kit?
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#317 by theman53 on 28 Jul, 2009 15:43
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I feel so bad for you. You have my kind of luck. I live in Ohio and go to summit racing every once in awhile if you ever need the studs I could pick them up for you. The great thing is that you didn't hurt it bad enough to cause it to be scrap...good job.
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#318 by arb on 29 Jul, 2009 05:02
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Ye gads that alternator rides low! I guess the bigger wheels may help a little? Time for a lift kit?
Yeah, I need to make a protector out of angle iron. I would have already, but the rear attachment to the "K" frame (why this is a "K" car) has been the only hold up. yes, the 14" wheels help some, and when I get the 15" wheels on it, that will help more. It already looks like I have a lift kit as the VW engine / trans are quite a bit lighter than the V-6 auto-slop this was designed for :-)
Yeah, Lucky I didn't crack it this time. I will not drive it again w/o a properly functioning temp gauge. That's part of why I bought a Sun set of steam gauges - you can see if it is working unlike an idiot light ;-) Too bad this Sun jumped the peg. I've never seen one do that. Summit has the studs? We have summit up here in the land of 10,000 lakes. What's the part number for the studs & nuts ?
Went home 2 hours early last night to button this engine back up. My son and I polished the head to almost spec, but the #1 - #2 junction still has a low spot. Then the thunderstorms rolled in. We packed it in, when to buy his 13th birthday gift - an e-trigger paint ball gun. (Extra sweet gift was my ex-wife is so anti-gun ;-) So, I hit the hay at 8:00 pm.. Good thing - Its still raining here now, but the rain should end by noon and we should be able to finish polishing the head and put it back together. I wonder how many times you can take off and reseal the injection lines before their seals no longer seat... -
#319 by arb on 29 Jul, 2009 08:09
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OMG !!! yes, I can go through every set, every bolt, in my sleep !! Yes, its much easier in the van. It was designed for a V-6 so there is lots of room. The only hard part last night was to remove the lower manifold bolts while the head was still on. The first time I pulled it as a set, but it is really heavy that way with the turbo hanging off the back of the cast iron manifold.
The glass is about 5/8" thick tempered safety glass. Yes, its flat. I clean it, then use a hot glue gun on the perimeter of 3 of the sides - it takes 2 sheet of 150 grit sand paper to cover the head with room to spare for sliding the head. I also put the glass on a flat table so there is no flexing. But, safety glass this thick doesn't move much. It takes only 10 minutes or so. Most of the material comes off in the first few minutes, then it is much slower as it becomes more of a polishing job with the sand paper loads up with carbon & aluminum. The glass does not wear as I have the sand paper glued to it.
Before sanding a head I would MAKE SURE that the cam journals are still aligned. You can lay a straightedge across them or plastigage them all. If the head is warped to the point that the cam journals are not aligned, then sanding the head gasket surface flat is not the right approach.
I use a similar setup. I have a large flat desk onto which I place a big sheet of 3/8" steel and then a 3' x 2' piece of milled granite. I then use a piece of 120 grit floor sander paper from a roll that was originally 8" x 50 yards. I use a piece that is sized so that the head can move in any direction without going off the paper. I use an even coat of 3M spray adhesive and an intelligent lapping pattern to ensure that any imperfections in the sandpaper or the adhesive are minimized. I spray the paper liberally with WD-40. The last head I sanded was a Suzuki 16V head for my sidekick. When I was done it was totally flat. No measurable warp at all. It has performed flawlessly since I put it back together a week and 150 miles ago. It probably took me an hour and 3 pieces of paper to get it totally flat.
Since this is the second time I've sanded it, VERY good idea. I'll measure the cam journals too. Good lesson in geometry for my son too. I did notice this time that when I pulled the head bolts that the ones at the 4 corners were much easier to remove. That Victor Reinz HG said to coat the bolts with never-seize. I've never done that before. The corner bolts felt like they had only 30 ft/lbs or so.. then center bolts felt like the 100 ft/lbs or so the 3 turns of 90 degrees gives you.
I like the idea of the floor sand paper. Mine was 120 or 150, and it was lubed with the oil dripping from the head. -
#320 by Rabbit TD on 29 Jul, 2009 18:30
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I wouldn'tworry about wearing out the lines, the ones on my 81 Rabbit have been off so many times over the past 4 years it's a wonder I haven't rounded the nuts away on them. As long as you are careful and get them lined up first before you tighten them they'll be ok. I know you watch for things like that.Ye gads that alternator rides low! I guess the bigger wheels may help a little? Time for a lift kit?
Yeah, I need to make a protector out of angle iron. I would have already, but the rear attachment to the "K" frame (why this is a "K" car) has been the only hold up. yes, the 14" wheels help some, and when I get the 15" wheels on it, that will help more. It already looks like I have a lift kit as the VW engine / trans are quite a bit lighter than the V-6 auto-slop this was designed for :-)
Yeah, Lucky I didn't crack it this time. I will not drive it again w/o a properly functioning temp gauge. That's part of why I bought a Sun set of steam gauges - you can see if it is working unlike an idiot light ;-) Too bad this Sun jumped the peg. I've never seen one do that. Summit has the studs? We have summit up here in the land of 10,000 lakes. What's the part number for the studs & nuts ?
Went home 2 hours early last night to button this engine back up. My son and I polished the head to almost spec, but the #1 - #2 junction still has a low spot. Then the thunderstorms rolled in. We packed it in, when to buy his 13th birthday gift - an e-trigger paint ball gun. (Extra sweet gift was my ex-wife is so anti-gun ;-) So, I hit the hay at 8:00 pm.. Good thing - Its still raining here now, but the rain should end by noon and we should be able to finish polishing the head and put it back together. I wonder how many times you can take off and reseal the injection lines before their seals no longer seat... -
#321 by arb on 04 Aug, 2009 05:23
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Here are some photos on where I am in the latest...
The sand paper step-up to flatten the head:
Boy power is great !!! We moved it mostly length-wise but did a little side to side to keep it uniform.
Here's the polished side:
I did measure the cam bearings. There was a very slight out of flat to them, maybe .001"
Next we chased the threads in the head for the manifolds and valve cover... I used loctite in all of them so the cleaning was in order.
Next I borrowed the exhaust tube expander from Autozone to return my S.S. flex joint to round - the pipe clamps tend to dent them making it difficult to put back together.
Then I noticed on of my oil soaked CV boots was split ! It might have been original 1983, so I can't complain. I'll need to replace that and repack the CV joint.
Next I had my son clean up the turbo pan I got from the crook in Halliburton ON (He had me drive 8 hr one way to buy a car he didn't have.)
After looking closely, I noticed the return line routes up almost next to the block... that would touch my drive shaft, so I decided to use my original pan and put a line on it that goes straight back, under the drive shaft. I drilled a hole and cleaned up a short 1/4" water pipe removing the zinc from where I would weld it (Not good to breath that stuff)
I completely welded it on the inside, and most of the outside.
I pounded out the couple of bents that were in the bottom of the pan. It has the original contour now. I also put a super magnet in the bottom of the pan. This came out of an old hard drive (I never allow my old hard drives out of my sight w/o first taking them apart to destroy the personal data and get a nice magnet) This will collect any steel particles over the coming years. This is standard practice now for automatic transmissions.
I also bought an oil filter wrench to remove the old filter - it got hot enough to partially melt the plastic label on it and my strap based wrench could not get on the short filter... This new wrench is the type that goes over the end of the filter
- I got off the old filter and installed the new large capacity filter ( M1-301 ) I then bead blasted the outside of my pan and washed it inside an out with tri-chloral to remove any oil or dust. I then applied 4 coats of engine enamel black. It has been baking in the sun for 2 days so it should be ready tonight to go back on the engine. -
#322 by 92EcoDiesel Jetta on 04 Aug, 2009 06:19
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Hi Arb, what kind of paper is that? Looks like dry garnet for wood? Would a wet/dry paper that won't shed its grit as easily be better (with some water for lube)? As for oil filter, have you tried the Motorcraft FL-1A? It's a little bigger than the stock filter and is readily available and cheap at Autozone and Walmart under$4.
Boy power IS GOOD (looks like he's a nice kid)! I notice in that pic there are no caps on the injectors.
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#323 by arb on 04 Aug, 2009 06:55
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Yes, that's the type of paper. They were lubed with engine oil coming from the head at a regular rate. I thought that was enough lube. I had 3M emery cloth but thought this stuff would be good. It took a lot of strokes to remove any material.
Yes, his a good son. Very helpful and courteous - no disrespect at all, unlike his 2 older "half" sisters. I never liked that expression - which half is his ? LOL !!
Yeah, I wish I would have covered the injectors this time... I cleaned them with compressed air. -
#324 by arb on 04 Aug, 2009 06:59
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How could I forget ? I also removed my BOV - it had come loose several times and I have a boost gauge right in front of my eyes...
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#325 by arb on 06 Aug, 2009 07:22
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Got a little closer to start up last night until I hit a brick wall..
First I got the pan back on, and the oil return hose connected to the pan and routed to where the turbo goes. Here's the pan nice and shinny:
But, before I buttoned it up, I thought I would confirm that my block is indeed the 1983 turbo block I was sold. I looked, but could not see the cooling oil squinters. I did not have the car lifted, so there was not enough room to get a good look, so I took photos. Looking at them, it seems clear this block in not a turbo block.
Oh well, back to the job, I connected the heater core to head hose, attempted to install the temp probe, thinking I would try and take apart the temp gauge and move the needle back to the other side of the peg so this does not happen again (undetected lose of coolant until its too late.) BUT, the brass fitting the probe goes into cracked ! Don't you love China ?
I took this as a very clear sign to fix it right, bite the bullet and remove the temp gauge for replacement at Autozone. It was not fun removing the fire-block from the firewall, and removing the probe's cable from the nice neat wire harness I created, taping the bundle together every 6" or so. Not fun, but its out now and tonight I'll have a new one to install :-) -
#326 by Rabbit on Roids on 06 Aug, 2009 10:04
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that sucks you got ripped off on a n/a block. i ripped the pan off my turbo motor before it even left the last owners house. took the turbo inlet off too, and found that the turbo was annihilated.
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#327 by arb on 07 Aug, 2009 19:42
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yesterday I was able to get the Sun Temp gauge swapped at Autozone... The manager had to help me as there was no stated warranty from Sun http://www.sunpro.com/ - Buyer beware ;-)
Snaking that probe through the dash and firewall was a real pain in the butt.
But, I got it installed. Then guess what I screwed up? Look at the photo and tell me what I did wrong:
:-)
I decided I'll cut the bottom 4mm of the housing (just a slice with the tin snips to allow it to pass) I made so the probe cable can thread through the face of the housing :-D I really want to drive this ride tomorrow :-D
And yes, it really sucks when someone lies to you about what they are selling you :-( Guess I am too trusting. -
#328 by FoXBoXRaCiNG on 07 Aug, 2009 22:15
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Koo dos to you my good man
You have the patience of a Saint and a Queen as a Wife for her support! Props to your Boy for gettin' his hands in there, priceless lifetime knowledge! I've been keepin tabs on your build from page one, and 23 later, the SunPro fitting was my last straw I woulda lost it and gone on a smashing frenzy 
Keep up the good work and vibe!
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#329 by arb on 11 Aug, 2009 06:31
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I have my Triple D back (Diesel Daily Driver) as of yesterday. This weekend I intended to get it on the road, but we had sweltering heat and thunderstorms with down pours.
First, I got the temp gauge replacement back in and the dash back in order.
Since I thought I only had a couple of hours work, I tried to finish Monday morning starting at 7:00 - MAN was it HOT - I drank a gallon of water that morning... Next I installed the manifolds and needed to put my EGT gauge plug back in the exhaust manifold, but for the life of me I could not find the 1/8" NPT plug, so I found a brass fitting that has the same thread pitch, but need the end plugged. The end has the same threads as the head bolts, so I cut off a piece of one of the dozens of used head bolds I have.
But I could not get the plug to thread. My wife had her car so I could not just go get one. I found that a brass temp probe from the original 1.6L head has 1/8" NPT so I used that...
Engine all buttoned up, time to start and bring to temp before the final 90 degrees of head bold rotation
Time to retire the valve cover gasket and use the new one I have had for 20 years on the shelf.
It took far too long to prime the injection lines. I finally connected the electronic aux fuel lift pump and used it to prime my IP. It was then easy to prime the lines. The car started right up even with the depleted battery (volts dropped to 8v when I cycled my pimped glow plugs.
First time I noticed really freaked me out - the timing belt had started to ride away from the block !!! Yikes. I removed the belt upper cover and realized the tensioner was too tight (when I did the final torque on the nut, I recall the tensioner moving a bit more tight), so I loosened it and slid the belt back. Much to my shock, the pulley shaft on the IP had more in/out than I've ever felt. Man, the heat must have been unkind to the IP... This time I held the tensioner in place as I torqued the nut. I then noticed the belt had rubbed the cover and frayed off a couple of 3" strands of cords. Time to replace the belt and the IP soon. Wish I had $900 for Giles !!! I trimmed off the cords.
I then ran the engine for a while to be sure the belt was not going to ride off the pulley. It stayed about 2mm over the edge. I adjusted the TB cover to not be so close to the belt. I ran it a while longer and noticed the injection pump was leaking on the bottom side, about 1 drip every 2 or 3 seconds !!! YIKES !! I rechecked the injection line fittings, nope. I got out the mirror and saw it appears they are coming from the junction of the iron plunger body and the aluminum pump body !!! Looks like I can live with this until this weekend when I'll pull the pump and replace it - I have 3 on had. Not sure the condition. Maybe I rebuild one this week and install over the weekend ?