Pics!
Wastegate mounting adapter flange:

...installed:

-Wastegate air control-
Since the wastegate flows air to cool itself down, as recommended in the instructions provided, I used a 1/4" hose from the intake manifold. I decided sharing the small vacuum line that was used by the VNT controller, boost gauge, and LDA device would not be adequate. I decided to tap into the boss on the 1.6lTD intake manifold "El", and used one of the banjo fittings that came with the wastegate. By filing the boss surface flat, it would give a good sealing surface for the crushwasher. The banjo bolt required specialized M10x1.0mm threads however. I found a pressure plate to crankshaft bolt had the same threads, and was able to convert one into a tap:

I hacksawed a couple slots into the end of the bolt (to give thread-cutting edges as well as make a space for the shavings to collect), and then to give the tap a more conical profile to help it get started easier and make it go in square, I pinched the four wedge-shaped pieces together with vice grips, following up with a thread file to clean up the threads afterwards. Going into the relatively soft aluminum, it worked quite well!
Wastegate air controls completed:

And in this shot you can see how the wastegate mounts with the adapter and also its air control hooked up:

I also found and fixed a fuel leak coming out of the input shaft by replacing the o-ring inside. When I had the governor cover off, I replaced the intermediate governor spring with a shim. The idea is to keep the main governor spring revv limiter working at a stock RPM limit, but keep the fuel pumping out at full amount all the way until the revv limiter kicks in.
The wastegate still needs an exhaust. There is an atmospheric dump tube that was supplied with the wastegate that almost fits! It might actually work with a little modification.
2383 - That "wastegate sound" load sensor sounds pretty cool!

I did try upping the boost today by stretching the wastegate spring. But I found that didn't work, because even after I successfully stretched it a bit, I found it relaxed to its original free height after being coil-bound. Adding a dial-a-boost would make it adjustable, but would add unsightly bulk and complexity. Changing the spring would be the simplest and cleanest way to increase the boost. Right now it seems I have the .6 bar spring. I am looking at springs in the range of .8 bar - 1 bar.
Also, recall this is my dad's daily driver. My main task at hand now is completing what I've started with this project, so dad can get back to driving and enjoying his car again. Taking on an intercooler install project is tempting, but is not going to happen right now as it would take the car out of commission for quite a while, and also there is not a budget for it at this time. An intercooler is the obvious future performance upgrade path though!

TDImeister - there are certainly are times when adding more boost pressure while holding fueling level constant can cool the exhaust gas temps, however, as a rule, I don't think it is necessarily true. For example, if fueling was already richened beyind the smoke point, extra boost pressure may result in more fuel being combusted, which would release more energy and heat into the combustion chamber than the extra air mass could cool.
Also, even if the engine is running lean and efficient, doesn't it still depend on some other factors? It seems especially for a motor that is non-intercooled and also where the turbocharger was approaching an inefficient operating area, that the added heat from additional pre-turbine backpressure and intake air temperature from the extra boost pressure could more than offset the cooling effect of the extra air mass.