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#105
by
fspGTD
on 14 May, 2005 20:19
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Rackley: According to ETKA, a '91 Jetta Diesel with AC should have a 90 AMP Bosch alternator, and it takes pulley having part number 035 903 119.
www.worldimpex.com sells it for $45 US.
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#106
by
srivett
on 14 May, 2005 23:06
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Looks good! I do not get that close to my belt when it's moving because all of my old ones are missing pieces of the sides or half of the cogs.
I ordered a couple of those Bosch pulleys locally and I'm told they are only 15 bucks a piece. I didn't bother checking on the double belt pulleys. Will post pics if things work out...I'm running a single 13x1170 belt with the alternator swung upwards. I had to file down the ribs on the timing cover to allow clearance for the belt.
Steve
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#107
by
lord_verminaard
on 14 May, 2005 23:26
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Hey she sounds good! Was there any exhaust hooked up? Turbo sounded great.
Eager for road test results.
That intake is evil looking!
Brendan
84 Scirocco 8v
00 Camaro L36 M49
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#108
by
iggi
on 15 May, 2005 04:10
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wowsers,
that sounds awesome Jake.
I'll be watching this project.
Thanks for posting all the details.
Ian
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#109
by
rackley
on 15 May, 2005 09:30
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Hey Jake, how did you find that info out? I found ETKA but can't find any part info there and a search of their site for the part # you gave me turned up nothing. The part also isn't listed on World Impex - did you just call them up?
Steve,
Are you running the 90amp alternator in the AC mounting style without the AC compressor? I can't picture that working... wouldn't the belt run through the timing belt? Or do you have it mounted down in the AC spot somehow?
Thanks,
Ray
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#110
by
rackley
on 15 May, 2005 11:16
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Nevermind. I found the edonkey link on the russian site, but the file was quite old. An edonkey search for "etos" turned up newer versions...
ed2k://|file|TLF-SOFT-02.20.05.Etos.v52.902.Multilanguage.ISO-TBE.bin|764799840|df6f2c4abb4ec0741f3b3a0ef9cdf935|
ed2k://|file|TLF-SOFT-02.20.05.Etos.v52.902.Multilanguage.ISO-TBE.cue|118|c9ab9a838ce6422eb2d3b03e48a7d641|
ed2k://|file|TLF-SOFT-02.20.05.Etos.v52.902.Multilanguage.ISO-TBE.nfo|10403|11b1eb0ef7858d73c483db1ffa528fc9|
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#111
by
lord_verminaard
on 15 May, 2005 13:11
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Illustration 903-40, Jetta Mexico
For alternator version 7 or 10, 10 being 068 903 033 E, 90 amp Bosch for "ME" engine code.
I didnt spend a year in VW parts doing nothing.
Brendan
84 Scirocco 8v
00 Camaro l36 M49
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#112
by
fspGTD
on 15 May, 2005 13:20
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Brendan & Ian - Thanks! No exhaust is hooked up yet... that's why the turbine whine is so loud. Did you notice the cardboard behind the engine? That's my makeshift exhaust system. :wink:
rackley: ETKA is the VW parts microfiche; what they use at VW dealerships to look up part numbers. That 035 903 119 should be a valid VW part number. Try this link for impex lookup:
http://www.worldimpex.com/search_by_partno.html?searchmode=partno&partno=035+903+119&x=31&y=7Also, to keep this thread from getting out of hand, do you mind starting another thread to discuss steve's alt-belt/pulley modification? Thanks.
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#113
by
fatmobile
on 16 May, 2005 01:40
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Congradulations on getting it going.
A couple questions.
I was thinking this VNT setup came off a TDI. It bolts right up to the head but are the exhaust ports shaped the same? The intakes on the TDIs are "D" shaped (right?) but the exhaust ports are shaped the same as the 1.6 diesel?
Also what are you going to use to support the turbo outlet pipe The stock 1.6 TD uses a metal bracket that bolts to the exhaust manifold and to the turbo outlet pipe, just before the toilet bowl. This exhaust manifold won't bolt up this way.
The old 1.6 diesel had a couple brackets that attached the block and trany to the downpipe, just before it went to the accordian shaped expansion joint. It was used on the dual down downpipe setup, pre-'81 I think. A set of these brackets might work well for you.
I don't think you should leave all the stress to the turbo outlet pipe bolts, even with a toilet bowl or flex section.
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#114
by
fspGTD
on 16 May, 2005 03:03
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Yes indeed, the VNT turbo is off a TDI - a 2001 Golf.
The TDI exhaust ports may be a little bit larger than the original 1.6l ports, but they are the same oval shape as in any 8v VW exhaust port. And air flowing from a smaller port to a larger port should not impede flow much. I did not perform any blueprinting or port matching of the head to the TDI exhaust ports, but I did verify that the exhaust manifold gaskets I had did have large enough holes and fit properly on both sides.
Regarding the downpipe bracing... true that the 1.6lTDs with the cast iron downpipes had the bracing from the factory. But, I don't think there is any downpipe bracing in the TDI downpipe. If that is the case, I will probably not bother making any, but will just put in a good swivel or flex joint as near as is practical to the turbine outlet. Did the 1.9lTD have any downpipe bracing? I don't think it did. Must be either the switch to the "accordian style" flex joint or to the lightweight tubular downpipe construction that allowed VW to do away with the downpipe bracing.
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#115
by
jackbombay
on 16 May, 2005 09:42
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I don't think there is any downpipe bracing in the TDI downpipe.
Correct!
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#116
by
veeman
on 16 May, 2005 09:52
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Nice work, Jake! Sounds killer. What kind of hose did you end up using to connect the intake piping? Looks like some kind of urethane reinforced with steel coils.
Also...is there a filter on the intake right now? I see what appears to be a silicone reducer and a canister before that.
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#117
by
fspGTD
on 16 May, 2005 11:46
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Yep... I used the same air filter that I used in my GTD. It's a PRM filter. I special ordered it with a special silicone reducer that ended in a 2.5" diameter (their standard reducer only goes down to 3".) I custom fabricated out of 16-gauge 6061 aluminum tubing (with way more labor time that I'd care to admit... including one botched piece I chock up to learning to weld thin-wall aluminum... :? ) an aluminum transition that further reduces the 2.5" diameter to 1.75" diameter. From there I couple to the TDI compressor inlet using 1.75" diameter Aeroduct CEET (neoprene rubber, smooth internal wall, 2-ply ducting). I had previously sanded down the TDI turbo compressor inlet by about 1/32-1/16" reduction in diameter, to get the Aeroduct to slip over it. The Aeroduct is not very conforming to changes is diameter due to the way it's constructed with internal metal wire reinforcement, but does a great job bending how you want it and also absorbing engine vibrations. I also used 1.5" Aeroduct to mate the compressor outlet to the 1.6lTD intake manifold, in conjunction with a cheap nonreinforced drain-waste-vent rubber 1.5" to 1.75" adapter that I got at Lowe's Home Improvement! (I didn't care to custom fabricate another long-tapered aluminum piece.) :lol:
The aeroduct is tied together, as are some other pieces mounted here and there (air filter canister, fuel lines, turbo oil supply line) using various sizes of Adel-style clamps sourced from a local homebuilt aircraft parts supplier. As you can imagine, lots of custom work here!
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#118
by
fspGTD
on 18 May, 2005 11:18
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I started welding to the downpipe flange yesterday. Cutting several "pie" shaped pieces out of the 2.5" stainless mandrel-bent turbing and welding those together, I was able to make the bend radius as tight as it needed to be.
And boy is welding stainless so much easier than aluminum!
(Plus, oh how effortlessly a powered radial arm saw with a metal cutoff wheel slices through stainless tubing... compared to a hacksaw!)
I managed to make the downpipe clear the shift linkage, but it's tight - less than one finger's thickness of clearance. In pursuit of some more clearnace, I am going to file the corner of the relay arm off. It's not a functional part of the metal arm in any way.
Finding a spot for the flex joint that is very close to the turbine outlet may be a challenge. As the tubing comes out of the turbine outlet, I had to make it bend pretty sharply downwards (only a little bit aft) to make clearance for the shift linkage. Once it was clear of the shift linkage, it needs to take a path more aftwards to steer clear of the inner CV joint and give the CV boot some breathing room. But then, (I haven't gotten this far yet with fabricating the piece yet,) it may be pointing aft too much to be able to clear the steering rack, and might need another downwards bend before it bends completely aftward, heading toward the under car shift boot. I am not sure where I'll have room to put the flex joint. The flex joint I've got is a ball and socket type construction, with two spring-loaded bolts on either side applying tension. The spring-loaded bolts have flanges that kind of stick out on either side. One of those braided flex stainless couplings would probably allow more clearance right around the tubing due to the lack of spring-loaded bolts, although it would also need be mounted on a longer straight section than the shorter ball-and-socket type joint.
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#119
by
greggearhead
on 18 May, 2005 13:59
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Just signed on this board - great thread. Haven't had a chance to read it in depth and sounds like you have your intake manifold setup already, but thought I would include what I found back when I was in college working at a VW Porsche shop, using a flow bench to fill the slow hours.
The NA diesel intake runners are longer, and more restrictive than the usual gas ones.
For A1 f.i. gas intakes, the earlier the better. A 77 Rabbit intake flowed considerably better than an almost identical looking 83 Rabbit GTI intake. The Fox intake manifold (which has the throttle body on the same side) flowed slightly better than the 77 Rabbit one, and only slightly less than the A2 style intake. Yes, those runners are bigger and it does flow better. I never flowed a G60 intake, but I imagine it is likely as good a one with a drivers side throttle body opening as VW made.
Consider making a brace for your downpipe. Several local friends with gas VW Turbos have cracked their downpipes, and being custom, have to go through pains to repair them. Can't hurt and may improve reliability. And yes, they had nice flex-couplings.
Nice write up and pics - keep them coming and good luck!