Vanbcguy's M-TDI Build

[libbydiesel]

I'd recommend getting an ALH sprocket and hub.  I just installed the hub so there was a little bit of tension from starting up the camplate ramps on the correct cylinder and it all worked fine from there.  Timing adjustment with the 2-part sprocket setup is way easier.  Otherwise you will need to slot the mounting holes. 

[vanbcguy]

I'd recommend getting an ALH sprocket and hub.  I just installed the hub so there was a little bit of tension from starting up the camplate ramps on the correct cylinder and it all worked fine from there.  Timing adjustment with the 2-part sprocket setup is way easier.  Otherwise you will need to slot the mounting holes. 

Good call.  I'll keep my eye out for a set.

[ToddA1]

Pretty sure I can live with that - will make getting the belt lined up initially a bit more of a pain but I should be able to work with it.

I suppose I could probably get my machinist to cut a new woodruff key slot in to the pulley too but I don't know FOR SURE what the difference in measurement is.

Instead of cutting a new woodruff key way, wouldn't it be easier to have a new lock pin hole drilled in the bracket?

-Todd

[libbydiesel]

Even easier is to just jump the sprocket a couple teeth or use the ALH hub/sprocket combo.

[8v-of-fury]

I just do mine by hand, when i set belt timing I already have my gauge in the pump.

I roll over till I see it just starting to ramp on the cam plate, and then set the belt there. With the pump in the middle of its throw, no issue to dial it in to wherever you need it set for your desire.

I wish I went with the ALH style, Still might. I would love to be able to tune my timing without having to loosen the fuel lines off haha.

[ToddA1]

Even easier is to just jump the sprocket a couple teeth or use the ALH hub/sprocket combo.

It's tough finding someone willing to sell the hub.  I found a pulley, but that was the easy part.

-Todd

[libbydiesel]

Best bet on finding the hub is to get a junk pump, remove the hub, sell the junk pump.

[vanbcguy]

I THINK I found an ALH pulley & hub.  The guy was going to send me a shipping quote today but hasn't yet, hopefully he doesn't disappear. 

I put a deposit down on a turbo too... a rebuilt/rebalanced GTB1756VK.  It should be available next week.

So that's most of the complicated stuff sorted out... Turbo / Injection pump / head studs / limited slip diff / misc other parts are all on their way here. 

I still haven't hauled the engine over to the machine shop - we're just in the process of rearranging the whole house as the time has come to get our 8-month old OUT of our bedroom and in to his own room.  That has resulted in me moving out of my office (I work from home), my wife switching to our former spare bedroom as her office (she works from home too) and me moving my office in to her old office.  Whirlwind of stuff but not having a baby in the bedroom any more is WELL worth it!!!!

[bbob203]

Im a little unclear on the rover pump sprocket setup do you take off the hub that is the stock rover hub and press on the alh hub or is it keyed?

[libbydiesel]

You need to remove the rover hub and then install the VW hub onto the rover pump.  Neither hub is keyed to the pump shaft.  There is a keyway in the shaft, tho, so getting the hub set for #1 is not hard.  In order to remove the rover hub, I just got a longer 13mm bolt and ran it into one of the sprocket mounting holes in the hub and aligned the other end to push on the solid area just to the side of where the pin goes.  

Here's some more details from another thread:

The Rover pump is a very good pump to start with.  It is a better match to the ALH than it is to the AHU as the snout is the larger ALH style.  I recently installed one on an ALH and it worked well.  On the AHU you would need to enlarge the bore of the pump bracket.  The LR pump also uses a two part sprocket similar to the ALH and so has the pump mounted solidly instead of the slotted holes and rotation of the pump body for timing.  Because of this, one would need to either use the ALH hub and sprocket or slot the three mounting holes of the injection pump.  I used the ALH hub and sprocket.  I needed to trim a little off the top of the pump snout where the timing pin goes as the ends of the bolts holding the two parts of the sprocket together would hit the pump case.  In order to use the timing pin method, one would have to add a bushing to the timing pin hole and go through a fair bit of effort to get the hub set correctly.  I didn't think it was worth it so I just set the hub so the pin could be used for the rough timing for belt installation.  The Land Rover delivery valves are also the long version rather than the short version that the TDIs use.  Because of this you would either need to swap in a set of short delivery valves or bend the metal lines to fit the longer delivery valves.  I've done both and either is a viable option.  The small mounting plate at the distributor head is also not correct and so you would need to either modify it or replace it.  I used a 1.6 plate but it might have needed a couple m6 holes drilled, I don't recall.  The accelerator lever setup is a little odd and the angles aren't great.  I welded a small piece onto mine.  All said and done the Land Rover pump is a very good option.  I also went through mine before installing and needed to replace the camplate, governor shaft and governor assembly with flyweights as those parts were damaged.

[RabbitJockey]

I just do mine by hand, when i set belt timing I already have my gauge in the pump.

I roll over till I see it just starting to ramp on the cam plate, and then set the belt there. With the pump in the middle of its throw, no issue to dial it in to wherever you need it set for your desire.

I wish I went with the ALH style, Still might. I would love to be able to tune my timing without having to loosen the fuel lines off haha.

i have one but i don't use my pump lock. its much easier by hand then u can kind of add some pretension between the pump and crank that way when you tighten the tensioner nothing is throw off time.  id just put a dab of white paint on the back side of the pulley where ever tdc is.  you don't have to be dead on with the paint either since the pump gets fine tuned later.

[vanbcguy]

Yeah as I'm thinking about how much awesomer this setup will be I'm already excited to set my timing. Dealing with the injector lines is such a pain when timing my 1.6...

[vanbcguy]

New goodies!!

[ToddA1]

You need to remove the rover hub and then install the VW hub onto the rover pump.  Neither hub is keyed to the pump shaft.  There is a keyway in the shaft, tho, so getting the hub set for #1 is not hard.  

When I pulled the hub of my Landy pump (with a puller), I noticed that if I put the hub back on the mainshaft and turned gently (like a safe cracker), the hub always fell back into its original position.  I'm guessing the mainshaft is harder than the hub, and the key way made a minute indentation on the inner bore of the hub.

What are the chances that the ALH hub on the Landy pump will do the same and be in the correct position for the timing pin?

Ooh, nice goodies. Do the later TDIs not come with a windage tray?  Is that a stock or larger oil cooler?  Never even crossed my mind to look into a shim kit. I've run several kits on 020s and liked them. 

-Todd

[vanbcguy]

Stock sized cooler supposedly. It does seem like it is slightly larger than the OE one but I haven't actually put them side by side.

That's a full on LSD... It's always wet around here and tire spin was a fairly regular occurrence for me with the 1.6. Figured since I'm sending the 02A in for a rebuild anyhow I might as well do it right!

Windage tray was available through ECS - stock didn't have one on the AHU.