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#165
by
vanbcguy
on 11 Jan, 2014 23:16
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You are scaring me with those open injector holes. Did you get a windage tray for the oil pan?
The engine stays wrapped up when I'm not actively working on it... But yeah, tell me about it. Yep, I've got a windage tray too.
Make sure you recheck the timing belt timing once installed. I had to do the same thing using a small probe down the injector hole for finding TDC but once everything was together I was out about a tooth on the flywheel.
Most definitely... I mainly wanted to be able to turn it over and confirm that the t-belt was tracking straight considering I've got a modified pump bracket and a non-native pump.
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#166
by
CdnVWJunkie
on 13 Jan, 2014 22:13
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You won't regret going with the stage 2 SB clutch. Backing up a trailer with a grabby clutch really sucks. Been there.
Yeah after I ordered it I saw someone mentioning somewhere that South Bend basically say that the Stage 2 Endurance will hold more torque than a pair of street tires will anyhow. So basically unless you are planning to run drag tires, the Stage 2 is perfect. Anyhow glad it's sorted, and glad to save $200 on it over the Stage 3.
The one thing that hurts about all of this is I actually planned a trip to the states back in December purely so I could get my clutch and avoid the shipping / duty involved in sending everything here to Canada. I did get a whole bunch of other stuff for my build so it wasn't a total loss, but I'm having to spend an extra $150 in shipping and duty now that I wouldn't have had if the DC clutch had shipped anywhere even remotely close to when it was supposed to. I mean considering the total bill for everything here it's not that big a deal but $150 is $150. I could have redone my front brakes for that.
ANYHOW, enough griping!!
Here's where I'm at now:
Cam and lifters installed (with tons of cam lube!), timing belt installed - still need to do the IP timing. I used the "small screwdriver down an injector hole to find TDC" method since the flywheel obviously isn't on yet - will finalize everything later on. Serp belt installed, very pleased with how the WP pulley and belt fit as I pulled the part numbers from various posts out there on the interwebz.
Looking good Bryn.
028 121 031K for the pulley? What about belt length?
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#167
by
vanbcguy
on 13 Jan, 2014 22:46
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I think I used the "E" version of the pulley, it's basically the same but cheaper.
Belt length - I posted it in another thread on here, I'm on my phone right now so it's hard to find. I'll try and remember to update later!
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#168
by
8v-of-fury!
on 13 Jan, 2014 23:21
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OK - if the belt is too long and rubbing on they WP pulley under the tensioner then you still need a shorter belt. The parts stores seem to really suck at belt size lookups for the Canada-specific engines so I'm not surprised you've had issues. Our ACC-engined Jetta took about 3 tries to get the right size belt and it has exactly the same pulley layout as you are dealing with.
I believe I got a Gates K060408HD for my car with the same setup.
I haven't put it on yet so I can't say for sure that it is the right size but I got the size info from my research before. You can get the 'regular' version of the belt without the HD suffix for a tiny bit less money. The HD version is their fleet service version which is supposed to last longer. It's a green belt rather than black.
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#169
by
CdnVWJunkie
on 14 Jan, 2014 06:27
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Thanks for the responses guys. I ended up having a "K" pulley here. I also had an "A" but the offset was wrong.
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#170
by
bbob203
on 14 Jan, 2014 08:48
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are you running Power steering?
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#171
by
vanbcguy
on 14 Jan, 2014 09:52
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I will be - haven't bolted it up yet though. PS will be driven off a V-belt. The V-belt pulley on the crank is installed already.
Here's a better picture of the belt layout for anyone who didn't see it already:
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#172
by
vanbcguy
on 20 Jan, 2014 23:29
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Question: I know the ALH and later cars came with a vacuum reservoir. But they also have a different style of vacuum pump. Any thoughts as to whether I should try and find a reservoir? I'm thinking it will probably be OK since the factory vacuum pump was able to handle the turbo + EGR + something else I haven't figured out yet in stock form.
Thoughts?
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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#173
by
CdnVWJunkie
on 21 Jan, 2014 05:24
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None of the VW cars ran a vacuum "ball" until the ALH cars, at least that I'm aware of. Not really sure why they started running the vacuum balls on them either, maybe the duty cycle of the egr and n75 valves can be a high enough load? Anyhow, I think you will be fine. Likely the other vacuum thing you're thinking of is your locks.
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#174
by
theman53
on 21 Jan, 2014 07:07
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My 83 GTI had a vacuum "honeycomb" attached to the hood of the car. You maybe able to find one and strap it to the hood like they did if you really need to.
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#175
by
libbydiesel
on 21 Jan, 2014 09:37
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I think they added the ALH vacuum reservoir because of the VNT vacuum actuator. I would add one if going with the vacuum actuator on your VNT control. It would 'suck' to use enough vacuum during braking and not build enough at idle and have your vanes not close properly at take off...
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#176
by
vanbcguy
on 21 Jan, 2014 11:11
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I think they added the ALH vacuum reservoir because of the VNT vacuum actuator. I would add one if going with the vacuum actuator on your VNT control. It would 'suck' to use enough vacuum during braking and not build enough at idle and have your vanes not close properly at take off...
That's exactly what I was thinking. I know it takes about 2 seconds to suck the brake booster "empty" at idle with my 1.6 (which uses the same vacuum pump). But then again the ALH cars definitely have a very active EGR system as well, which I won't have. I guess I can throw a gauge on and see once I have everything installed.
None of the VW cars ran a vacuum "ball" until the ALH cars, at least that I'm aware of. Not really sure why they started running the vacuum balls on them either, maybe the duty cycle of the egr and n75 valves can be a high enough load? Anyhow, I think you will be fine. Likely the other vacuum thing you're thinking of is your locks.
Definitely not the locks - they have their own separate pump in the trunk. My AHU came with a mess of wiring and vacuum lines - I pulled two vacuum solenoids and sold them to libby months ago, but when I was digging through the rest of the rats nest I found a third solenoid buried in the mess. So the "pile of engine" I bought came with 3 separate solenoids. Some of the airboxes had a vacuum controlled hot air valve so that might be what it was for.
My 83 GTI had a vacuum "honeycomb" attached to the hood of the car. You maybe able to find one and strap it to the hood like they did if you really need to.
Not a half bad way to go if I decide I need one. Be nice to have that bit of retro charm! Plus those things are cool. I guess a check valve would be in order.
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#177
by
vanbcguy
on 24 Jan, 2014 22:59
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Home from my work trip, had a package waiting for me that included:
Sweeeeet....
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#178
by
410
on 24 Jan, 2014 23:32
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Nice!
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#179
by
theman53
on 25 Jan, 2014 10:48
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I would go for the stage 3 then. My stage 2 acts as stock with the heavy flywheel. that would be the other part, if you go with a lighter flywheel it will probably be much harsher than with the heavy 21lb one I have.
30,000 to 40,000 on the SBC and I am easy on it mostly. I passed a guy in 5th and it slipped on me. I had myself and the 2 girls in the car, roof rack and one snowboard...not much weight. But it slipped no doubt and I let off instantly, but I will be looking for another clutch soon I am sure. I picked the stage 2 endurance or whatever it is called because it was supposed to be 110ft/lbs more than I would ever be making, but I am no longer impressed with this clutch. Really this is the first time I really have got on it, especially in 5th, and it has slipped. I would see about getting that stage 3 if I were you.