Vanbcguy's M-TDI Build

[vanbcguy]

Audi tt short shifter is the way to go. Only 40 bucks.

Interesting, hadn't seen this option before.  Looks like it'll be a bit more than $40 as the original 'ball style' one that would fit my current cable ends has been superseded by a later one that includes the pin-style and a replacement pin-style cable end.  Still though, only about $65 or so.

Played with it a bit today and it seems like I've got it adjusted to a 'happy' place.  The TT arm would definitely fix the issue should it cause me any concern once I'm actually driving.  Thanks!

[bbob203]

I have some pin style ones in good shape I'd send you for the cost of shipping and an hour of my time. also this stuff makes a big difference http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VW-Shifter-Bushing-Set--Mk4-56S-MY02-05_p_279.html  http://www.performancebyie.com/integrated-engineering-billet-shifter-bracket-bushings-for-vw-02a-02j-02m-02q-transmissions

[vanbcguy]

Actually the way I have it adjusted now it's working great.  Or at least it's working great when sitting in the car without the engine running...

OK - where were we...

Pulled the cable clutch stuff out.  I bought the proper bracket to support the clutch master cylinder months ago - went to install it and it doesn't fit.  The studs on it line up with the proper mounting holes on the pedal bracket but the actual master cylinder hole / master cylinder stud holes are not even close.  I wasted a couple of hours trying to bend it in my vise to get things to line up but it just wasn't happening.  I think I must have received a defective bracket, there's just no way the oone I have would fit. 

Thankfully those brackets are pretty cheap, so I've ordered another one.  Hopefully this one fits properly.  I needed a couple other little bits - the clip that holds in the clutch pedal broke coming off, plus the little plastic "bearing" that the over center spring rests in on the firewall. 

I also have a couple other bits coming - needed some of those through-radiator plastic "bolts" to secure my AWIC radiator to the engine rad - I had some in before but had to cut them removing everything.  Should be here soon.

Fuel system work today... I finally found a spot to mount my great big Racor fuel filter as the stock location is totally blocked by my intake piping, plus the Racor is pretty huge.  I've got it mounted to the frame rail by the battery - there's a perfect access hole to reach in and change the filter.  I've used a piece of 3/4" brake line across the radiator support connected to the factory tank line to get to the other side of the car.  I'm using a Facet Posi-Flow pump post filter too.  Right now I've got air getting in somewhere - driving me nuts.  But I've actually pushed fuel through my IP now which is something. 

I REALLY need to get this up and running next week.  There isn't much left to do really... Get the clutch MC installed, fix the air leak in the fuel line, connect up the throttle cable, reinstall the radiator and take care of the AWIC.  "Not much" eh?

Turbo controller is going to be a little bit yet - I just discovered that I need another whole little circuit to be able to read the signal from the crank position sensor.  There's an off the shelf IC that can do it thankfully, but I didn't plan on that on my prototyping board so that's going to be a pain in the butt.  But I have a schematic and everything, it isn't super complicated, just more time and effort.  I had ASSUMED that the VW one would be basically the same as the Honeywell one that the VNT-LDA code I'm using had been designed for, but the Honeywell one provides a pulsed positive DC signal whereas the VW one switches a signal to ground instead.

[vanbcguy]

Wow. I'm frustrated to no end. Got bracket #2 for the clutch pedal, exact same alignment problem. So either my actual pedal bracket is drilled wrong or the firewall was punched wrong. Neither are easy to deal with-there is NO room under the dash for a drill and I'd need to hack the hell out of my firewall to make things line up. Gar.

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[Smokey Eddy]

Would the use of a Rotary tool like a dremel help at all?

[vanbcguy]

Since I have 2 of the brackets anyhow I figured what the hell and took the hacksaw to one of the studs on the bracket. With that cut off I was able to mount it up - it still has one so it will still provide support. That's going to have to be good enough for me.

A rotary tool with a 90 degree head and a flexible extension I could probably have gotten in there. Unfortunately I own no such thing...

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[vanbcguy]

Clutch has been bled. Holy crap the hydro clutch is soooooo much smoother than my old cable clutch was!

I sliced the nub off my turbo that was threatening to chew up my firewall insulation today too. Was kind of nice to be able to confirm that I've got oil going to the turbo, not that I was worried but hey, good to know.

I still have an air leak on the suction side of my fuel system somewhere before the filter. Frustrated for sure, I've redone all the connections with no change. I have a suspicion it's actually in the hard line I ran across the front of the car. Anyhow that's my next major challenge. Not much left to do though!

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[vanbcguy]

OK, fuel issue sorted.  There was a cracked reducer bushing on the inlet side of my fuel filter.  I was going to pull it all apart again and it just went PING and popped apart when I put the wrench on it.  Replaced with new fittings, no more air leak!!

That means I get to put the front end back on.  I don't have anything left to do under the car now.  I need a couple bits I have coming to mount up the AWIC rad still before I can put the engine rad in but those should be here soon.  Tracking number isn't working but it's from a big retailer.

Once that is done... Fill up the cooling system, finish up my accelerator cable.... take the car off the stands and FIRE IT UP!!

[theman53]

Sweet. It is nice to have a project come together well. I wish I would have taken as many good photos this last time as you did when you were building this. I bet this will be a really good runner.

[vanbcguy]

This is what I've come up with for the accelerator cable thus far:



I'm not happy with the actual cable attachment yet.  The factory ball style connector is too tall and bumps in to that "other" springy lever that we all haven't figured out yet.  I guess the factory style LR cable had a 'U' shaped bracket attached to the end and a pin of some sort that went through and held everything together.  I actually am having some ideas on how to make something like that, but this set up will be good enough to get me fired up.  I'm going to get a plate welded to the side of the bracket for reinforcement when I get my downpipe made too - it obviously won't last long without some sort of bracing.

So I THOUGHT I dropped my 10mm socket down the hole at the edge of the rain tray, off in to the abyss of the inner fender liner.  I popped the bottom two bolts out to retrieve it and got all of this:



If you've got a Mk3 I highly recommend taking the two 8mm bolts out of the inner fender liner behind the wheel and cleaning things out - talk about a perfect environment for rust!!  I found a couple of bolts plus one of the factory hold downs for the air box hiding in there - this car actually has never had the factory hold downs on it the whole time I've had it so that must have been from a previous owner.

'scuse the blurry pic, but here's my bigass fuel fitler:



I really like this filter.  I have a 2 micron element in it - they are SUPER cheap to buy and very easy to find anywhere that has heavy machinery or marine equipment.  Living on the coast that makes things simple.  The filter elements are about $5 each.  It has a huge separator bowl that takes care of solids and things before they get to the filter element itself.  There is a kit for a built in heater if I want it though it ain't cheap.

Access for changing filters is down by the battery (this is mounted on the driver's side behind the bumper cover) - there is just enough room to reach in and change things out without too much hassle.  My E-code headlights do stick fairly far back, it makes it much easier to remove the rear cover but it's just a quarter turn and remove type thing, no biggie.



Everything is pretty much ready to go now in the engine bay.  I found a better way to route my IC piping than I had with my 1.6 - this stays out of the way of the oil cap.  I don't have the IC plumbed up yet but that's not a big task, I've got all the hose and everything ready to go.



There's a few small miscellaneous tasks to take care of yet but I'm hoping to fire her up tomorrow!! 

[GEE-BEE]

Did you bead the tubing ?

The clamps are overkill if you have beaded tubing, just a std worm gear lined s/s aerospace hose clamp correct.

If you ever want less heat soak, replace the hardline with silicone tubing and and just a small amount of alloy sleeves ( joiners ) to connect the silicone assys.

Your install is how the Stephansautohaus gave me piping to reproduce in silicone assys, after the tool was made its less money than metal hardline and no heatsoak ,and we make straight silicone to oblong to reduce clearance issues on the 1.8T ( 240hp ) in there Vanagon install .

GB

[vanbcguy]

Nope, no beads, or at least only a few here and there where the pipe already had them - I don't have access to a bead roller.  Most of the clamps I actually had already from my last build.  Actually most of the tubing is from my last build too - the new parts are the airbox to turbo, the 'U' bend on the front and the longer hard line from the turbo to the IC as the old one was too short with the altered layout.  I do need to replace the clamp on the actual intake - it is one of the factory spring clamps right now as the T clamps I had were a tad too small.

Heat soak wise I'm not TOO worried - the pipe post IC is only about 8" long and half of it is silicone already.

My setup probably wouldn't be worth making in any sort of quantity - I have a 2005 Passat exhaust manifold, a turbo from a 2.7L Audi, an intake manifold from a euro PD150 and an AWIC... all in a Mk3 body.  I know of precisely 2 other people that have the same turbo and exhaust manifold in an A3/B4 body and neither of them have an AWIC or the PD intake.

The straight to oblong silicone is interesting though - particularly for going over the top of the valve cover.  I have enough room with the current aluminum pipe but it isn't far off of the injector hardlines.

[sdubfid]

I've got a bead roller but I'm only home for 2 more days

[vanbcguy]

I've got a bead roller but I'm only home for 2 more days

Ah - thanks for the offer - actually I ran everything without beads on my last engine and didn't have any issues at 24 PSI.  These T-clamps are pretty beefy when they are torqued down.  True I'll be going for more boost here though... 

[bbob203]

I hear people use hairspray on the tubing to prevent if from blowing apart...