I did read the mk3 beam is wider, which I can tolerate, but then I also heard that it makes the wheels sit further back as well. The differences between the proportioning valves seem like they would make the swap a PITA too. They are stiffer though, as they appear to have extra reinforcement gussets on the outside edges...that is kinda cool
I have ultimately decided against the rear beam swap and I am planning on just the drums. Good info on the caddy drum parts Andy! Thank you
I do not plan on this engine ever seeing a turbo. The car? Maybe
Abusive break in aside, I built this engine for longevity. As much as I crave boost, that will be a different chapter. The 2.0 in my rabbit does have piston squirters and forged internals...so I may end up boosting that before I ever get to boost a diesel. I will just be waiting to stumble upon a good deal locally on a 1.9, and then it will all be over
TDI's in the junkyard are the rarest of the rare...so I just want this motor to last long enough for one to get found and built on a stand.
And I have faith that this motor will survive:) Probably with lots of life leftover! N/A or not, this thing would be a sweet drop in upgrade over an old 1.5
If I ever upgrade to a 1.9td, someone will be happy!
As far as I can tell, the slim fan is a definite upgrade. Then again, the fan that I was running had one speed burnt out. Not sure which one it was though! Being much quieter and less invasive is a huge plus from the get go. I am guessing doesn't take nearly as much current to get it going as well. Maybe it is a moot point for me since I am running the flexalite fan now, but I may just use my power probe and set up both fan styles to make a video
This isn't just "The Greg Show"! I do post all of my trials, errors, successes and findings for the entire community to learn, not just to show off my pride and joy
I didn't have problems with over heating, but it was definitely warmer than I was comfortable with. I know changing my upper hose configuration made a big difference, for the better. I would think blocking flow out the side of the head didn't help to expel heat much, but I feel it was worth while to bypass several extra hoses and potential for failure/leaks. All in all, the temperature is a reflection of my car saying "Dude, get over it and back off the F@#$%&* FUELING!"
I have still had some high EGT's on hot days and rising engine temps when going up a grade for a long time. I am sure the extra weight of the tent didn't help, per se, but that is part of the whole testing procedure. I finally got finished working on my diesel intake so I could throw it back on and adjust the fueling accordingly. After all was said and done, I ended up turning the turning the max fuel down, but I still put a cooler thermostat in it for good measure.
So I ported out my intake runners a little more now that I have some long shank burrs, and I ended up cutting out some of the metal between the runners.
Why? I REALLY don't like trying to get these intakes on or off when the engine is in the car! This makes it easier to guide an allan socket or bolt in. This intake is much much louder than the gasser setup...which seems like a direct translation to the engine getting more air. No hot air intake comments. Please.
I was going to try to hold off on putting it on because I was going to have a friend make a phenolic spacer, but it didn't happen. I am sure phenolic spacers are another one of those hat trick gimicks that grant you an extra ant fart's worth of power, at best, but the biggest reason I wanted it is because I can't unclip the airbox cover with the fancy valve cover! The bottom clips hit the cover and can't be undone! You have to either take off the valve cover or the airbox as a whole. Kinda crappy :/
In reading about different manifolds, I did find it fascinating that longer runners apparently add to low end torque. A phenolic spacer would count as making the runners a little longer, right?:laugh: It would also get the manifold to sit further back and closer to the hood vent. There is significant room to move back without hitting the firewall.
I got my filter flange ready to go with the cooler setup. I just need to settle on what type of cooler I am actually going to run and get the fittings and hoses accordingly. I guess I am going to start by eyeballing junkyard cars. I didn't grab the volvo one because I figured I could find one more appropriate for my application.
Started putting some extra elbow grease into cleaning it up too. Got busy with a heat gun to finally get the vinyl strips off the doors, between the side windows. I got to brainstorming and started trying to see if I could get the rubber off the window trim. I figured metal trim would accent well and match the door handle trim, so I went for it.
Before:
and after a little cleaning and semi-gloss rattle can action:
I wanted to do the car satin black with gloss black trim, but I decided to work with what I got, as a test. Now if I can clean up the other 3 windows and rattle can the rest of the car, it won't look half bad
