ok guys i have hit a snag here.

[8v-of-fury]

Ahaha.. what else can go wrong right? lol

So i shall start with a story to tell you why right now i am pissy, and tired as hell. llol

Last night i was drinking with a few friends, got to bed around 1:30 after 6-7 beer. I awoke at 6 am against my will and could not get back to sleep. not only that but i was still feeling the alcohol a tad in the form of small pain in the head. So i head outside to mess around with ***, do a dump run on the day off and all that good stuff. I got my mount pressed in to the passenger side mk1 mount i need for my upcoming swap, so tonight i attempted putting the mount and pump back on. Get the mount on, get the pump on. Got the T-belt and tensioner on. hit a snag! I got the dial indicator in the pump right.. pump bolts all loose so it can move and what not. Now here lies the problem. Having the TDC mark right on, it takes a movement from where the guage reads 28 where the tdc mark is, but to get the cam lock and ip pin to fit you have to rotate the engine so the guage reads 53. I think maybe after just reading vince's how-to i need to reset the cam timing.... But what about the ip pulley, it cant be off a tooth its a very minuscule movement.. If i loosen the cam and re-do that, how will the ip get readjusted?

Man i am just too tired.. been awake 20 hours on 5 hours of sleep never good.. I will reattempt tommorow. Does having the pump bolts loose affect trying to set the engine and cam and all that to TDC?

i need help  :?  



This is the TDC mark right??

[jtanguay]

dude... find a hexagonal bolt with a head big enough to fit in there, and then twist that plastic piece out.  its WAYYYYYYYYYYYY easier to find TDC without it  :wink:

[fatmobile]

First thing I thought too.
 Time the cam/crank first,.. then time the pump.
 Probably obvious after some sleep.
 Cold start lever is in while timing riiiight?
 I still catch myself forgeting that step occasionally.

[Smokey Eddy]

jeeze yeah man fire that plastic thing out of there and you'll be double certain. Also, it doesn't hurt to have someone looking for TDC for you while you turn it over. or if you take the GP's or injectors out it's safe to use the cam to turn it over (as there will be zip for compression).

[8v-of-fury]

oh, a new day!!

I wasn't aware of that little plastic POS being removable. Lol i was cursing why the hole was so damned small.. lol Ok so with my head on straight here, I need to loosen the cam shaft bolt and then while holding the cam at tdc adjust the crank back to tdc. Tiny problem i think will arise here.. The pump right now is in exact relation with the cam. If i loosen the cam to adjust its timing, then the pump is still gonna be out when the crank gets back to tdc. or am i missing a crucial piece of info here? lol

lets recap, lol. right now my cam and injector pump have to be moved the same distance away from tdc so that they can be locked in. loosening the cam and readjusting the crank backwards to tdc will also move the pump out of alignment. Is this all a tell-tale sign of being a tooth off that thing was a PITA to get on (the belt and tensioner). What methods do you guys use for easy removal and installation of a new belt?

[dillenger1]

You lock the cam in on the tranny side with the plate,as well as the pump sprocket with the pin.they should be lined up when your seeing the tdc on the flywheel.double check by looking at the cam, both lobes of cylinder no. 1 are facing up.

[8v-of-fury]

i had to take the pump off to switch mounting brackets so the engine will fit in my mk1. when i put the pump back on with a new tensioner and belt, the pump and cam align perfectly but the do not align with the crank. Sadly i think they are a tooth off. With the cam locked and the pump locked..




That's what i get. I loosened the cam bolt.. how do you get it to spin freely? do you have to remove the pulley? it's just a smidgen off. damnit! lol All the rest has gone so well, removing and putting the pump back on was a walk in the park compared to this.. lol this is not my weekend lol

i need cheese

[theman53]

crank isnt that far off but the cam is WAY out IMO.

I would just loosen the cam sproket so it is free. Leave the pump locked. Get the crank over just a tad. Lock the back of the camshaft there in back so it is perfectly flat. Then see if you need to take the belt off and put it on or just take the slack out of the belt with the tentioner. Then just torque the cam and IP up and your off.....after turning it at least 2 times!

BTW where did your Avitar come from?

[commuter boy]

Diesel pump timing takes patience, lots of it, and that's why even VW gasser mechanics screw it up.

The cam pulley spins freely so it's the last thing you adjust.  Because the play is so critical you should shim it equally on either side of your cam locking plate, I usually find I need two feeler gauges between 0.11 and 0.13 or so to get it nice and snug with no play at all.

Then tension the belt, crank it around a few times by hand, give the belt a whack with a rubber hammer between the cam and fuel pump sockets, then spin it around a few more times by hand.  

Check tension, check TDC is good again.  Repeat if necessary, then do the pump timing.

Not a job to do if you're tired.  If I get frustrated I walk away for a while and do something else, then come back to it when I'm calm and have gone back through the steps in my head again.

[burn_your_money]

Be very careful if you are turning the motor over timed the way it is right now. Your valves and pistons will probably hit.

Do you have the bentley?

[jtanguay]

read libbybapa's (andrew) above post(s) CAREFULLY.  everything, including tips, are located within.

the cam pulley has to be removed.  i would also go as far as to say that the bolt holding it should be replaced... cheap insurance IMO.

[Smokey Eddy]

as soon as vince posts he has a link in his signature to a "How To" of doing the timing? are you following that?

[8v-of-fury]

crank isn't that far off but the cam is WAY out IMO.

I would just loosen the cam sprocket so it is free.

So by just loosening the big bolt on the cam sprocket, that allows the camshaft to spin free of the sprocket? i loosened the bolt and the cam does not spin free.  

Do you have the Bentley?

No i dont i suck, lol i haven't been able to/ motivated to get one

as soon as vince posts he has a link in his signature to a "How To" of doing the timing? are you following that?

Yeah i am following Vince's expert directions, its just that this procedure is befuddling me lol I think if the belt weren't so hard to get on without moving something... then this procedure would be a lot easier on the mind I wanted to just start heaving *** when i was trying this last night because something was always getting on my way when i was trying to get light! oh man, lol.

the cam pulley has to be removed

Oh, I see now. So the removal of the cam sprocket will allow the cam to come back in to time..

BUT WAIT A SECOND! i think i had a revelation.. the car was dead on before i removed the old belt and tensioner.. And i didn't play around with the cam.. AND NOW the cam is still perfect with the pump like both the pin and the cam plate will slide in at the same position with the belt between the two taut. which leads me to believe the crank is where the problem lies not the cam... i mean its not like its hugely off right? just a touch, say the size of one tooth on the belt? lol

[jtanguay]

do you have the engine timing tools?

[8v-of-fury]

do you have the engine timing tools?

Sir, yes sir. I have the cam locking tool, pump locking tool, and timing guage. I'm not going in to this blind, its just blowing my mind

I think i may be a tooth off because the cam and pump still allign together, so i believe i am off at the crank. I will go out right now and give er' another go. wish me luck, i need it lol