ok guys i have hit a snag here.

[Smokey Eddy]

If i had the tools i'd time mine to 1.05 probably. just to help with cold starts. I wonder how much the cold start lever thing actually advances the timing. I wish i could be there and pull it while the gauge is hooked up and see by how much.

[Smokey Eddy]

oh. We have different injectors. Sorry didn't notice. Well, that's what I would do.

[Vincent Waldon]

Don't time 130 bar injectors to 1.05.  It will make it not start with the cold start out and very rattley.

Andrew

QFT.

Which is why my HOW-TO suggests 0.95-1.00mm for NA (130bar) engines.  :wink:

[Smokey Eddy]

i would still time MY injectors to 1.05


I didn't mean to cause such a stir. It would have been better if you commented on whether or not i was right about the differences between retarding the timing and advancing the timing.

[dieselweasel]

I like to leave the crank a couple of degrees BTDC until the belt is on making sure it is meshed correcly with the pump.  Cam gets lightly tightened so the sproket can still turn and then the sprocket is turned CCW on the cam slightly to make sure there is no extra room for movement between cam and pump.  Then crank goes the couple degrees to TDC, the tensioner gets tensioned, cam gets torqued.  I still doublecheck cam after a complete rotation of crank.  Works for me.  Like you said experiences can vary.

I would make sure that the cam to sprocket mating surface is free from any dirt or oil. Brake parts cleaner on both surfaces. Then, with the belt on the sprocket, sprocket loosely on the cam and tightened a bit but still able to turn, make sure all of the belt slack is in the tensioner area. For this, it sometimes helps to turn the crank a couple of degrees before TDC by hand and then, while holding the cam sprocket, return the crank to TDC. Then tension the tensioner and torque the cam to 20 ft-lbs with the bar still in. Then remove the bar and using some other sprocket holding method, torque the cam to 33 ft lbs. Give the bolt a good wap with a hammer (don't beat the crap out of it, just a sharp whap). Retorque to 33 ft lbs. Whap. Torque to 40 ft-lbs whap and check. If it moves when checking, then whap rinse and repeat until it doesn't. I know of at least one cam that slipped from the factory and of several that slipped when torqued to 33. Never break loose the cam bolt with the metal bar in place. Never do the higher torque values with it in place.

That's a really good tip...going to have to remember that.  I have had a trial & error experience in the past with getting the cam bang on, but that method is a good way to ensure there is no slack in the crank/pump/cam area before tightening everything down.

[8v-of-fury]

98% successful.

I forgot to put the baffle that goes between the cam and the valve cover, and i didn't quite get the valve cover gasket sealed in one corner so it was spewing oil at the back of the head. But other than that, timed the engine to 0.39" tested to make sure the engine spun freely.. and wheeled the dolly out of the garage hooked the jumper cables up our Astro, and jerry-rigged some wiring for the ip solenoid and the starter solenoid and bobs your uncle.

had to crank it for about 7-12 seconds to prime the pump, set the gp's on for 8-10 seconds.. chu-chu-chu-Chug-Chug-Chug..etc. a delightful sound I was right the pump timing is nice and easy after it did its little warm up sputters i gave it a blip of the throttle and she purred like a kitten. I gave myself a congratulatory smack on the back, and wheeled it back inside. :lol:

I would like to thank you all for helping me out, I was goin in to this one pretty much blind.. I think for my first time just a little over t24 hours isn't bad !

Woooo-hooo. thanks alot guys! I don't have a Bentley so I couldn't have done it without you guys Cheers.

Jeremy.

[burn_your_money]

Glad to hear you got it figured out.

I still remember the first time I was going to have to time a motor. My headgasket crapped out. Rather then replacing it (which would involve timing) I just swapped in another motor. Sweet success. Until that headgasket crapped out the next week :evil:

I time everything to 0.95, NA, TD, AAZ etc. If it sounds right when I start it I leave it alone

[Golf/Jetta]

i find tighting the tensioner moves the crack a bit..

[8v-of-fury]

i used your tips to the utmost of my ability.. but i could not for the life of me get the belt to fit on without slack.

but in the end i got had the cam locked, pump locked and the crank right on TDC. So i dunno what was up.. new belt maybe a bit off? oh well it runs like a top now.