Head stud part #?

[autoholic]

Seems that I blew my HG so now I'm gonna install some head studs. Anyone have a part# for the 11MM? I did search but could not find a good#.
 I'm not sure what happened, but I have a coolant to oil leak, a little steam coming out of breather and a little white slime on the oil cap. There is not much coolant in oil that I can see, but something definitely wrong, I also have a small oil/coolant leak from the front of the block, looks like from gasket area. It does not seem to be entering combustion area, it runs fine with no steam out tailpipe that I can see, does not overheat either (and has never been overheated). I hope it's not cracked, this motor only has around 1K miles since complete rebuild, I have alot of dough into the head (wish I just bought a new one). Problem seemed to happen after retorqing those damn stretch bolts.

[autoholic]

Mike_w: Are you still selling them?

[Turbinepowered]

ARP 11mm headstud part #: 204-4701

[autoholic]

Many thanks, really appreciate it.
I'll get them coming tomorrow and tear back into this thing when I find some spare time (in short supply right now). Always something.

[autoholic]

Ordered ARP studs from Summit today. $122 w/freight, turns out they are the same # as for 1.8T gasser.

[Possum79]

Drop me a pm when you get them. I really want to go to arp studs but I was way to confused on what is right and wrong part numbers. If you could kinda compare the studs to an old 11mm bolt that would be cool.

[conor]

hey mark,

Let me know how those ARP studs come out. When I emailed them I was told they didn't offer a stud for that and that it would be a custom job. Raceware was about $200 for the set, so maybe those 1.8t studs are the way to go.

How did you manage to blow that hg after 1000 miles? and moreover how did you manage to get 1000 miles on your sammy already?

Also, you see the baja site/ motorsports site we put up? thought you might get a kick out of that...

-conor

[autoholic]

Hi Conor, I got the studs today, got them from Summit for 122 w/shipping. ARP gave me an outrageous price to buy factory direct.
The part# listed above is for a 1.8T, they look like they will work just right, I'll be doing the HG this weekend.

I do not know why the HG blew, seemed to have happened after retorqing.
The HG is causing a small external leak and a small oil to coolant leak, does not enter cyl.

I may have dinged the gasket (again) when installing it last time around, maybe this is the reason, sure hope it's not a crack. I never really overheated it and have not been punishing it too hard, but there were times in deep mud/steep climbs I had to hammer it for all she was worth, and the temp did go 200F, but still, its not a cyl leak so I do not see why this would cause it. I'm running around 14 PSI at most.

I also got some TD injectors which are going in this weekend.

I have not put 1K miles on it yet, but probably around 600 or so (odometer/speedo is way off),

I'll check out the motorsport site, that Baja project is really awesome, can't wait to see that!

I'll let you know how it goes with the studs, but they sure look like they are right.

[autoholic]

Pulled the head and discovered a cracked block, 3 cracks around front head bolt (side by oil drain), very ugly situation. It seemed to happen when retorquing the head, I followed the spec, maybe I had some oil in there and it hydrolocked, I don't know but I was careful about cleaning out those holes before assembly.

Anyway, I pulled the motor/trans, disassembled and mounted it on stand.
I have another block which i need to get dipped, bored, int shaft bearings installed at machine shop. I also will prepare the block for the Samurai trans adaptor and engine mounts before bringing it to machine shop.

What a pita, especially considering that motor had only around 500 miles or so: fresh bore, decked. everything! it ran perfect!

I'm gonna put all the parts in the other block, everything is still like new. It should not cost too much dough, but what a waste of time.

I decided to rebuild the Samurai trans while I'm at it, there was alot of metalic crap on magnetic drain plug and it's kind of noisy in neutral.

I'll post some pics of all this at some point, but I am currently camera-less

[Jet A]

How did you hydrolock studs???

Maybe these studs are different. i always heard, put studs in finger tight, and then slap the head on. torque and go.

anyway, badnews. best of luck on your next

[autoholic]

No, I did not install the studs yet. I was going to put them in as I though I had a blown HG and liked the idea of going to studs, when I pulled the head I discovered the cracked block, happened after retorqing the original stretch bolts. I have never had a problem with the stretch bolts in the past, but the studs seem like a better way to go and I'll definitely be using them on the new motor.

[JunkcollectorJ]

bummer about the cracked block.  Always something...seems like we're doomed to always be working on junk in the driveway.  

Good luck with the new motor.  Oh, I have your tools and that set of heat shields that I need to get to you at some point...

[fatmobile]

happened after retorqing the original stretch bolts. I have never had a problem with the stretch bolts in the past,

Anyone have a part# for the 11MM

Are you using 12mm stretch bolts?
 or 11mm headbolts?

[autoholic]

bummer about the cracked block.  Always something...seems like we're doomed to always be working on junk in the driveway.  

Good luck with the new motor.  Oh, I have your tools and that set of heat shields that I need to get to you at some point...

Thanks for bringing that stuff by. Yea the cracked block is a pita, not sure how I managed that, maybe it was borederline hydro locked and finally cracked when i re torqued. No Fall wheelin for me!

I'm also rebuilding the trans and have those parts on the way, now i just need time!

[RustyCaddy]

Got a 11mm block rebored to 2ndovers back from the machinists today.

I had read a few posts about head studs and 11mm blocks.  Sounds like the way to go.

Sorry to hear about the block cracking...some say that the older CR and CK blocks are prone to that happening.