1.5TD Pumps do exist (The 1.5TD project)

[Turbinepowered]

i really dont think they are smaller. i think the 1.5/6's have the same size wrist pins. but im not sure, i will check. and whatever happened to all the activity on here? am i going to have to revive this and start building my 1.5 td?

Well, the post I quoted seems to be saying that the 1.6 pins are in fact smaller than the 1.5 pins. 22.5mm pin bore diameter on the 1.6 versus 24mm pin bore diameter on the 1.5, according to that post. It seems... backwards.

[saurkraut]

Well, I have everything running right for once.  Time to resurect this puppy.

I found that the Raceware studs don't hold up to multiple torquings on my 1.6block/1.9head project.  So I suspect this motor may have suffered the same fate.

I just finished lubing all the Raceware studes with molibdinum disulfide grease like the ARP studs in my 1.6/1.9 project, and retorqued it to 50 ftlbs.  It torqued really smoothly, and all the studs took the full 50 lbs nicely.

Just got done with the 1 hr block heater application.  Tomarrow I'll retorque it and see if the gasket holds.  If it blows again, Ill get ARP studs and try again.

[saurkraut]

Surprize, surprize.  The raceware studs failed to privide enough clamping force on the fourth use.  The head gasket leaked like a seive.

The block is not cracked.  Which is good news/bad news; I can use the block, but the long rods, 1.5 crank and turbo block will have to waite.

The ARP 11mm undercut studs are on order from headbolts.com.

Next week, fire in the hole.

[TurboJ]

1.6 has 24 mm wrist pins.

[saurkraut]

Yah, and the 1.9 pins are even bigger.  26mm maybe?  I have 1.9 rods so I guess I'll just measure.

I'll get this 1.5 block/1.6 head thing running and thrash it for a while.  Then I'll gather all the pieces togather and build a 1.6 turbo block, 1.6 turbo pistons, 1.9 rods, with a 1.5 crank and swap it out for the stock 1.5 block.

[truckinwagen]

yeah the 1.9td pins are 26mm.

I have heard that the 1.5 rod journals on the crank are smaller than the 1.6/1.9 which would make installing the AAZ rods on a 1.5 crank difficult...

[saurkraut]

Oh snap.

I guess its time to get all the Bentley manuals out and check big end diameters.  Maybe I'll luck out and be able to use undersized rod bearings for the 1.9 to get it down to the 1.5 journal diameter.

[MJF]

Theres ~1,8mm difference. Pic is in finnish, but youŽll see the measurements.

[saurkraut]

Its running.  ARP to the rescue.  Its doesn't leak, and its had its hot re-torque.  Boy, 1.5 motors sure sound different.  They also don't have the lower end torque of the 1.6.  But they sure are rev happy.

Its been sitting so long that the registration has expired.  I'll renew it and report my observations.

[Rabbit on Roids]

Its running.  ARP to the rescue.  Its doesn't leak, and its had its hot re-torque.  Boy, 1.5 motors sure sound different.  They also don't have the lower end torque of the 1.6.  But they sure are rev happy.

Its been sitting so long that the registration has expired.  I'll renew it and report my observations.

its amazing the difference 100cc makes isnt it? my 1.6 was no fun compared to my 1.5

[saurkraut]

Yah, Its must be all in the shorter stroke. Its really a whole different power band.  Nothing on the bottom, but a good kick up high

I got to look in the all the Bentlies and see if there are rods to work with the 1.6TD pistons and 1.5 crank.  I'd like to find out what longer rods do to it.  I got half a mind to get custom rods....

[Rabbit on Roids]

i like the way the 1.5 powerband is. and i have a vnt also, and the vanes arent  hooked up, so when it spools, it really spools hard. no vanes to smooth out the transition. my 1.6 would never have pulled as many RPMs as my 1.5 does. its completely different power too. the 1.6 has more characteristics of a traditional diesel, while the 1.5 kinda acts like a gas engine in a way.

im kinda curious to see how the 1.5 likes a K24 turbo instead? it spooled low and hard on the 2.0 i took it off.

[saurkraut]

The k24 on mine is a little laggy.  The way i have the boost pin, governor screw, and fuel screw set right now, it smokes like a tire fire at 12 PSI and shoots up to 1200 F EGT.  Then the boost builds to 25 PSI, EGT drops and it really scoots to redline.

[Rabbit on Roids]

my vnt was laggy too, so nothings gonna be new. never had the vanes hooked up tho.

[saurkraut]

I discovered new twist.  In a hard right turn I'm getting oil up the crank case vent hose.  Must be that oil sloshes to the left side of the pan, hit the crank and then goes up the tube and into the motor.



I did it a couple of times and verified the phenom.  It occurred on a freeway off ramp posted for 20MPH taken at 40MPH. The line to the boost gauge has allot of oil in it too.  I'm going to remove the hose and cap the barb.

I suppose it vents the crank case better.  But if you drive 'em like you stole 'em, you'll get a good dose of oil in your intake, and a little surprise when you up-shift coming out of the corner.