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#30
by
somepunk22
on 25 Apr, 2008 16:23
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Awesome project. I've started digging back in to mine. So when can I come out for a test ride?
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#31
by
saurkraut
on 26 Apr, 2008 06:00
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Awesome project. I've started digging back in to mine. So when can I come out for a test ride?
Just as soon as I can get all the exhaust gases going out the exhaust pipe. :wink:
I have a line on a brand spakin new 1.5 head, so I'm not sure which head I'll use yet.
If the front oil drain thing between the 1.5 block and the 1.6 head is solvable, I'll go that way. But its nice to know I have a new 1.5 head as a backup.
Nerts, I was going to pick up a rust free rabbit today for the guy who supplies me my parts, but its freak'n snowing here right now. :roll:
More proof of global warming............
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#32
by
saurkraut
on 10 May, 2008 04:43
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Well, I'm going to try a 1.6 head on the 1.5. I'm guessing the swirlchambers are improved somewhat over the 1.5.
I'd really like to stay with the 1.5 head for nostalga sake, but I think the 1.6 head will be better for flow and strength.
At least I have access to both 1.5 and 1.6 NOS heads, incase it looks like a lost cause getting the front oil drain to seal.
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#33
by
dillenger1
on 10 May, 2008 05:11
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Your pistons are in backwards.arent they
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#34
by
coke
on 10 May, 2008 11:17
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Yeah, looks like their in backwards
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#35
by
saurkraut
on 12 May, 2008 06:21
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Holy crap, what a bone headed mistake. How in the heck did I do that and not notice.
Thanks for noticing! I probably would have spent an inordinate amount of time inspecting the head for cracks and not even noticed them again cause I don't make mistakes like this.
I guess I do now....I'll get it switched around next week end.
Runs pritty good for backwards pistons though
I had other issues to deal with that took priority.
Haul a recently aquired rabbit 250 miles for a friend. We have to save the species.
Its very clean:
Pee break
About half way there, the left rear wheel bearing on the Quatro started to howl and that had to be changed. So that kind of finished off the week end for me
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#36
by
saurkraut
on 20 May, 2008 06:54
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Party in swirl chamber No. 3:
The cover was really loose too. Notice the soot track on the outside edges of the cover to the coolant passages. The metal head gasket was fine.
As long as it was appart again, I drilled the steam passages in between the cylinders
Here is the holes drilled and the pistons flipped around to the proper direction. Thanks again dillenger1! I probably would have never noticed.
The rod/piston installation was correct. I just had to pop them out and rotate them 180. Rings and pistons looked great.
I put them in the first time with the block laying on a big sheet of cardboard on the floor. Must have had a major brain fart on block direction back then.
Here is the 11mm 1.6 head I'll be using, with the 'mod' to the front oil drain hole for the 1.5 block.
Its JB Stick Weld. Its a really stiff 2 part putty that cures solid, is oil resistant, and good to 250F sustained. It will mash down the rubber insert I used with the other head. If it comes loose, I'll have a massive oil leak on the front of the block, so i won't have to guess whats going on in there.
Hopefully I'll get it running next week end.
Tune in them.
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#37
by
saurkraut
on 28 May, 2008 13:11
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Well, here is the brand new 1.6 11mm head on and torqued:
And to top the good news department, its still presurizing the cooling system. But, as an added bonus, it pressurizes faster, it runs poorly, and antifreeze is dribblig off the back of the block somewhere.
Cracked block? Probably.
I'm contimplating my options right now; should I find another 1.5 block, use a 1.6 block to get the 12mm studs and put in the 1.5 guts, or use a 1.6TD block to get the 12mm studs, oil jets, and put in the 1.5 guts.
I'm going to stick with the 1.5, as the pump is all set up. (It would cost me another $700 to get it recalibrated to a 1.6.) And I'm still intregued by the 1.5TD concept.
As long as I had my work cut out for me, I took a look at No. 3 swirl chamber cover:
The picture isn't the best, but the groove at the base of the cover is packed with a hard depost of soot. Since I have less than an hour run time total, it was probably hozed up by the previous owner.
The program continues.
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#38
by
RabbitJockey
on 28 May, 2008 14:08
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i thought i had bad luck... keep up the insanity tho, i'd really like to see how this car runs with the pistons in the proper direction and with all the exhaust going through the turbo. i vote for a td block if you can get your hands on it, but if u go that route you'll be buying pistons too.
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#39
by
saurkraut
on 29 May, 2008 09:33
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Yah, it has to go. The little bugger pulls good.
I'm treating this as an R&D effort, so although I was somewhat dissaponted at the latest turn of events, I'm over it now and looking forward to further developements.
I'm also contemplating a k14 or VNT, as the thing makes hi EGTs at low boost and RPM. So if I can get more air to it earlier, that would make things safer.
I also have to compare the piston pin ends of the 1.5 rods to the 1.6 rods and see if 1.5 rods have enough meat to be machined to accept the bigger pins.
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#40
by
saurkraut
on 29 May, 2008 11:33
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That's what I'd do. If the 1.5 pins are smaller, couldn't you bush the 1.6 pistons?
Andrew
I'll have to take a look at all the stuff on the small end of the rods. Best of my recolection, the pins are smaller in the 1.5. So I'll either use the 1.5 pistons and notch them for the oil jets, see if I can make a thinner rod bushing so I can use the turbo pistons and bigger pin, or remachine the 1.5 rod ends to accept the bigger bushing, pin, and turbo pistons.
If its going to be a Turbo block, I suspect a re-bore will be needed.
Any body have a turbo piston handy? Is there any additional webbing around the oil jet notch?
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#41
by
saurkraut
on 30 May, 2008 05:51
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And, with a 6.4mm or 0.252" shorter stroke, I wonder if a notch for the oil jets is needed with the 1.5 pistons?
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#42
by
FWD.MOTION
on 31 May, 2008 07:23
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very very nice short stroke project
You have my support & respect!
Very nice information for anyone tuning into your thread
I look very eagerly for updates regularly
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#43
by
FWD.MOTION
on 01 Jun, 2008 07:35
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what did you do to seal the main oil hole on the front of the 1.6head t 1.5 block
I tried to use viton o rings but *** blew oil everywhere
now im back to the 1.5 head and trying to make a custom copper h.gasket with the right thickness copper!
I dont see how anything cut and stuffed into that extra space would keep its seal///
How's that working for you? JB welds best option you think?
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#44
by
saurkraut
on 02 Jun, 2008 06:42
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what did you do to seal the main oil hole on the front of the 1.6head t 1.5 block
I tried to use viton o rings but *** blew oil everywhere
now im back to the 1.5 head and trying to make a custom copper h.gasket with the right thickness copper!
I dont see how anything cut and stuffed into that extra space would keep its seal///
How's that working for you? JB welds best option you think?
I used Audi80's idea and made an insert for the front oil drain hole in the gasket from a rubber gasket for the oil fill cap. With the 1.5 or 1.6 head, there was no leaks. Granted, the run time with the 1.6 head was brief, but it didn't leak.
Nope, JB Weld is not the best option. Its quick and dirty, and probably failure prone. The best option is welding in filler, and machining it flat again. Since I'm building a different block now, I'll probably do the weld thing.