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better than oem for loop lines??
by
audilvr
on 19 Jan, 2013 08:11
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i've been fighting with this for a while and thought i had it beat, i guess not....the (new ) oem style rubber loop lines keep leaking and popping off. i've replaced them a couple of times and they still keep leaking. any thoughts?
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#1
by
ORCoaster
on 19 Jan, 2013 09:25
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tons of suggestions on here. Search for injector hose or return lines.
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#2
by
8v-of-fury
on 19 Jan, 2013 10:30
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Popping off and leaking? Shouldn't be any pressure there, maybe you have a plugged return to the tank?
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#3
by
TylerDurden
on 19 Jan, 2013 11:10
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Popping off and leaking? Shouldn't be any pressure there, maybe you have a plugged return to the tank?
Agree... the loops should lead to the tank return (zero pressure there) via the OUT banjo or a T-fitting in the return line.
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#4
by
tyb525
on 22 Jan, 2013 10:26
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#5
by
DogDiesel
on 22 Jan, 2013 12:03
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I buy the OEM tubing bulk, since it fits my VW, my numerous Mercedes and even my Farm Tractors.
On my Caddy, I replace it every three years, unless it becomes defective beforehand, which it does not.
Would it last 5 years? maybe...Three years is fine. The stuff is cheap if you buy bulk.
I've owned one of these VW pickups since the 80s and tried other tubing, with disasterous results.
OEM tubing does not require clamps, the other stuff did, and that sometimes isn't pretty.
It all deteriorates too fast.
My engine is not painted fancy. Engine is black, so black tubing with yellow stripe is just fine.
Wayne
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#6
by
audilvr
on 22 Jan, 2013 14:10
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i'll hit bthe return with some air and see if that helps, thank's.
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#7
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 22 Jan, 2013 21:23
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i use toyota vacuum lines.. i always have a couple miles of it laying around, and ive never had an issue with it leaking, it fits the injector barbs quite tightly..
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#8
by
bajacalal
on 23 Jan, 2013 09:25
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If your lines are popping off, check your banjo bolt on the injection pump for a restriction, the bolt should say "OUT" on it too, because it's special.
I've just used the regular auto parts store black fuel hose, I can't remember the size, 1/8" or 3/16" I think is about right.
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#9
by
tyb525
on 23 Jan, 2013 10:27
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1/8" ID makes for a nice snug fit.
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#10
by
wdkingery
on 23 Jan, 2013 10:34
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what you need to do is push the stupid lines on there as best you can, and then slather as much RTV silicone all over them as you can.. make a huge mess of it.
this will effectively glue them in place, and make it impossible for them to jump back off on their own..
this will save you from having to replace your timing belt every time one jumps off and coats your engine bay in motor oil an diesel. (or maybe just diesel for you)
you can still give them a good yank and they will come off.
also, cut the ends at a 45ish degree angle helps them go on all the way
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#11
by
theman53
on 23 Jan, 2013 12:35
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Most RTV is eaten by diesel, The Right Stuff is one that holds up. It is easier just to take the time and push them all the way down and then give them a bit of a pull back so they are tight.
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#12
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 23 Jan, 2013 13:20
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what you need to do is push the stupid lines on there as best you can, and then slather as much RTV silicone all over them as you can.. make a huge mess of it.
this will effectively glue them in place, and make it impossible for them to jump back off on their own..
this will save you from having to replace your timing belt every time one jumps off and coats your engine bay in motor oil an diesel. (or maybe just diesel for you)
you can still give them a good yank and they will come off.
also, cut the ends at a 45ish degree angle helps them go on all the way
this was meant as a sarcastic post, right?!
ive had lines be stubborn before, and i put tiny ZIP-TIES around the lines, acting as a tiny hose clamp..
what lucas said, about seating them COMPLETELY, and then giving them a tug, is the best way to get them to stay. its that little tug, that seats the hose on the barb..
usually, when i pull my jumper lines off, the end rips off, and i have to slice the remainder off the barbed fitting.. they fit nice and tight!
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#13
by
nathantheengineer
on 23 Jan, 2013 14:17
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the one on number 4 injector split on my last week about 200 miles from home.
Didn't notice at first because it was dark and i was travelling on the motorway and couldn't smell diesel.
Noticed something wrong when a 1/4 tank of diesel went far too quickly ( 45 miles) and then my clutch started slipping.
It turns out that thediesel was running down the head and straight into the bell housing
Sorted it at the roadside and am waiting for my clutch to get back to normal. It no longer slips when i push the throttle pedal more than an inch!!
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#14
by
wdkingery
on 23 Jan, 2013 16:10
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this was meant as a sarcastic post, right?!
No I wasn't jokin!
Bet that line ain't coming off!