better than oem for loop lines??

[audilvr]

i've been fighting with this for a while and thought i had it beat, i guess not....the (new ) oem style rubber loop lines keep leaking and popping off. i've replaced them a couple of times and they still keep leaking. any thoughts?

[ORCoaster]

tons of suggestions on here.  Search for injector hose or return lines. 

[8v-of-fury]

Popping off and leaking? Shouldn't be any pressure there, maybe you have a plugged return to the tank?

[TylerDurden]

Popping off and leaking? Shouldn't be any pressure there, maybe you have a plugged return to the tank?

Agree... the loops should lead to the tank return (zero pressure there) via the OUT banjo or a T-fitting in the return line.

[tyb525]

I used 1/8" ID fuel and lubricant yellow tygon pvc from mcmaster-carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-and-rubber-tubing/=l5cxkn It doesn't require clamps, a tight fight.

[DogDiesel]

I buy the OEM tubing bulk, since it fits my VW, my numerous Mercedes and even my Farm Tractors.
On my Caddy, I replace it every three years, unless it becomes defective beforehand, which it does not.
Would it last 5 years?  maybe...Three years is fine.  The stuff is cheap if you buy bulk.
I've owned one of these VW pickups since the 80s and tried other tubing, with disasterous results.
OEM tubing does not require clamps, the other stuff did, and that sometimes isn't pretty.
It all deteriorates too fast.

My engine is not painted fancy.  Engine is black, so black tubing with yellow stripe is just fine.

Wayne

[audilvr]

i'll hit bthe return with some air and see if that helps, thank's.

[R.O.R-2.0]

i use toyota vacuum lines.. i always have a couple miles of it laying around, and ive never had an issue with it leaking, it fits the injector barbs quite tightly..

[bajacalal]

If your lines are popping off, check your banjo bolt on the injection pump for a restriction, the bolt should say "OUT" on it too, because it's special.

I've just used the regular auto parts store black fuel hose, I can't remember the size, 1/8" or 3/16" I think is about right.

[tyb525]

1/8" ID makes for a nice snug fit.

[wdkingery]

what you need to do is push the stupid lines on there as best you can, and then slather as much RTV silicone all over them as you can.. make a huge mess of it.

 this will effectively glue them in place, and make it impossible for them to jump back off on their own..

this will save you from having to replace your timing belt every time one jumps off and coats your engine bay in motor oil an diesel. (or maybe just diesel for you)

you can still give them a good yank and they will come off.

also, cut the ends at a 45ish degree angle helps them go on all the way

[theman53]

Most RTV is eaten by diesel, The Right Stuff is one that holds up. It is easier just to take the time and push them all the way down and then give them a bit of a pull back so they are tight.

[R.O.R-2.0]

what you need to do is push the stupid lines on there as best you can, and then slather as much RTV silicone all over them as you can.. make a huge mess of it.

 this will effectively glue them in place, and make it impossible for them to jump back off on their own..

this will save you from having to replace your timing belt every time one jumps off and coats your engine bay in motor oil an diesel. (or maybe just diesel for you)

you can still give them a good yank and they will come off.

also, cut the ends at a 45ish degree angle helps them go on all the way

this was meant as a sarcastic post, right?!

ive had lines be stubborn before, and i put tiny ZIP-TIES around the lines, acting as a tiny hose clamp..

what lucas said, about seating them COMPLETELY, and then giving them a tug, is the best way to get them to stay. its that little tug, that seats the hose on the barb..

usually, when i pull my jumper lines off, the end rips off, and i have to slice the remainder off the barbed fitting.. they fit nice and tight!

[nathantheengineer]

the one on number 4 injector split on my last week about 200 miles from home.

Didn't notice at first because it was dark and i was travelling on the motorway and couldn't smell diesel.

Noticed something wrong when a 1/4 tank of diesel went far too quickly ( 45 miles) and then my clutch started slipping.

It turns out that thediesel was running down the head and straight into the bell housing

Sorted it at the roadside and am waiting for my clutch to get back to normal.  It no longer slips when i push the throttle pedal more than an inch!!

[wdkingery]

this was meant as a sarcastic post, right?!

No I wasn't jokin!



Bet that line ain't coming off!