It should still only have one wire to excite. My 98 TDI swap still only needed one wire to excite. The other wire in that two prong plug is the W output, and does not need to be hooked up. I do believe it has a voltage come out, so you may have frigged something up?
Did you try giving it a good rev? Most of our diesel VW's need a good rev to excite the alternator for some reason... just one of those VW things I guess.
Quote from: EcoTX on September 13, 2012, 08:47:28 pmDid you try giving it a good rev? Most of our diesel VW's need a good rev to excite the alternator for some reason... just one of those VW things I guess.This. I wish I could explain why. I'm a tech and cant understand why.Wait, is it a V-belt or Serp setup?
where did you get the swap motor?
yea look closer for that D+....not like it helps,but the way the" idiot light works is:one side of the light has b+ on it,and the other side going to the alt is" grounded" when the alt is not working..when its operating,theres ;+ on the" grounded" side and voila,the light goes out.gotta have a ground and power for a circuit..put power to both sided of a light and it doesnt work....so knowing that you could" cheat" and temporarily remove the orig blue wire.....get a lamp. ..hook one end to the batt,hook other to d+....start the car and check at the battery for charge output with a meteroh,i was assuming you were leaving the orig b+charge lead hooked to the alt....with a meter u should see battery power there even with the car off,its always" hot"doin what i described will eliminate the cars exiter wiring temporarily to determine if the alt is bad or not
from my gen knowledge, i suspect the alt doesnt excite until the residual voltage comes up enough to get the volt regulator workin,yes if u try a temporary bulb like i said itll work for testingIn my experience, the rev thing gets worse as the pill with the brushes wears down, till eventually you can't rev high enough to initiate charge.On some cars, changing the resistance of that bulb affects charging voltage.