injector heat shields and injector removal - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• injector heat shields and injector removal by Mikeyworks on 23 May, 2004 19:37
• I need to swap out an injector or two in my new truck
  ( shameless plug), and I will have to replace the heat shields.   Is 068130219 the right part number?
  
  Also, what's the recommended tool (socket type, depth) for removing the injector without cracking the head?
  
  
  Thanks bunches,
  Mikey[/url]
• #1 by QuickTD on 23 May, 2004 21:30
• Your part number is correct.
  
   I would recommend a "T" style breaker bar and a 27mm deep socket for removing injectors. Centre the handle and apply even pressure to both ends. Not all 27mm deep sockets will fit, you might have to shop around. 1-1/16" sockets also fit fine and may be easier to find.
  
   Pulling a ratchet or breaker bar toward the front of the engine bay when removing injectors is the best way to bust a head. If you use a conventional breaker bar or ratchet, pull only toward the sides of the car and support the ratchet head with your free hand. Try to use the shortest extensions possible, this will help avoid undue leverage on the injector boss. Plan ahead and squirt the injectors with a good penetrant a couple of days prior to removing them.
• #2 by fspGTD on 24 May, 2004 23:12
• Make sure your socket doesn't bind on the head casting.  It needs to be thin-wall enough for this.  If it's not, you can sacrifice a socket and grind it down.  You need the hex-shaped wrenching slots to go in deep into the socket.  Some deepwells aren't very deep at all before they start getting narrow.
  
  I usually use some anti-seize on the injector threads too.
• #3 by BlackTieTD on 25 May, 2004 06:22
• for socket, i searched around for a 27mm deep socket, with thin walls. the best i could find was one for about $30 and the walls were too thick.
  
  so i just bought an $8 socket from canadian tire.. it was their standard 1 1/16" deep socket, works perfect for 1/4 the cost of anything else i could find. you don't have canadian tire down there... but try the major tool stores. the brand on mine is 'mastercraft'... canadian tire brand.
• #4 by Mikeyworks on 26 May, 2004 17:43
• I bought two different types of 1 1/16" sockets at my local Autozone.  One is actually for an O2 sensor. It is taller/deeper than the standard 1 1/16 deep socket.
  
  However, both have the same problem, neither of them fit over the return lines on the injector head. I will sacrifice the deeper of the two and grind down the inside. In fact, I even started trying, to no avail. My grinder doesn't seem to be cutting the mustard. They are case hardened.
  
  What do you recommend for thinning down the walls?  Is there a carbide type tip that fits on my Dremel tool?
  
  Thanks,
  Mikey
• #5 by BlackTieTD on 27 May, 2004 07:34
• damn, was afriad of that. i think dr. diesel had this same problem. the $8 socket i got from canadian tire works perfectly, no grinding... you'd almost be better off ordering a mastercraft socket and shipping it there for the amount of hassle it seems to be causing you.  :?
• #6 by fspGTD on 27 May, 2004 10:42
• I have ground the OD of a socket that was too fat using a bench grinder,  but grinding the ID sounds very difficult.
  
  That's way you need to find a socket that has the internal (12-pt or hex-shaped) wrenching surfaces extending deep inside it.  On many deepwell sockets the wrenching surfaces don't extend very far inside, it narrows down to a small hole (that a long stud would fit into, but not the nut or in our cases, a deep/fat injector.)
  
  I had to get one especially big to get the 1.9lTD 2-stage injectors to fit deeply into them (these injectors are particularly fat and long).  I found an air impact socket that had deep enough internal wrenching surfaces, but it's OD was too fat, and interfered with the outer wall of the cylinder head.  So I ground down the OD and it works...
  
  I used a craftsman 27mm deepwell socket, fits great - no grinding required, over a standard 1-stage IDI injector.  It just wasn't deep enough through for the 2-stage injectors.
  
  Good luck
• #7 by Mikeyworks on 27 May, 2004 12:27
• Also, to avoid the tendancy to break the injector boss...could I use my impact wrench to REMOVE the injector?  I would set it at the lowest setting, but that would remove the angular or tangential stress on the boss, right?
  
  I will see what I can do on this socket this afternoon.
  
  Mikey
• #8 by subsonic on 25 Mar, 2007 07:17
• I am also removing my injectors.  I have two heads, 1.9 and 1.6 already off the blocks.  they came that way.  Any special concerns about pulling these? I may go with the impact to put even torque on it. in out in out etc.   I am guessing I will need a helper too hold the head.  I tried my 27mm wrench but got nowhere.  I am going to start looking for the sockets at the store.  Any updates to this link on a good socket for the 1.9 injector?  Will, if my wife goes out, putting the head in the oven to warm it up help?  I can also shoot some penetrating fluid up into the chamber from the bottom. Any thoughts?
• #9 by burn_your_money on 25 Mar, 2007 07:36
• I bought a 27mm deep impact socket from canadian tire. It cost $12 or something like that. Being an impact I needed to bust out the bench grinder and grind it down. I think I need to grind it a bit more though because I bent a couple of the return barbs.
  I ended up using my electirc impact because I couldn't get 2 of the injectors free with my 18" breaker bar. Forward a very small bit, then backwards. I used the forwards-backwards method with the breaker bar as well, always pushing perpendicular to the cam axis.
  I warmed the engine to operating temps first though which definitly makes it easier.
  
  Once I did use my 1 1/6 wrench to remove the injectors, I have the pump removed though. It was a cold head and I had no problems.
  
  For removing the heat sheild just crank the engine over and they'll pop out (usually). You can also screw a wood screw into the hole in them and use a slide hammer to remove them, or just stick a small screwdriver in the hole and pry it out
• #10 by jimfoo on 25 Mar, 2007 07:38
• I got all mine out just fine with a 1 1/16" box wrench. No need to worry about getting a deep enough one, or the return fittings that way.
• #11 by subsonic on 25 Mar, 2007 07:52
• Since the head is off, I am going to haul it with me to the store  :idea:
  I was thinking I would need to buy 5 or 6 different ones to try and then return a bunch.    I tried my box wrench but it was too fat too get down.  I will haul this down to sears and try the 27mm and the 1 1/16".  Andrew did you use it on a 1.6 or a 1.9?
  
  Jim
• #12 by jimfoo on 25 Mar, 2007 08:54
• One thing about my wrench is that it would only fit on over a limited angle, but that was enough to break them free. My heat shields just fell right out,  but my engine was a fairly low mileage one.
• #13 by subsonic on 25 Mar, 2007 12:11
• :x  WTF!  I just spent 2 1/2 hours going from store to store trying all the damn 27mm and 1 1/16 deep well sockets at home depot, sears, auto zone, VIP auto parts, PEP boys, and napa. Not one of these POS sockets was deep enough. :evil:   That leaves me with using my wrench with only a partial grip and a BIG ASS LEVER.  ***, I even tried bending in the injector cooling tabs a bit. no luck.  GRRRRRR....!  Who has a socket that will work on the 1.9td injector they want to loan me, or knows where they can get one that works for sure.  I will buy it.
  
  Jim
• #14 by jimfoo on 25 Mar, 2007 21:05
• Can you weld? You could buy 2 sockets, cut one in half and weld it onto the other one.