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Need Procedure to Remove Water Pump 1.6 vw Diesel Non-turbo
by
thomas m
on 03 Apr, 2014 20:08
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I need a thumbnail procedure, or a reference to a procedure, for removing the water pump from my 1991 1.6 VW diesel NA. I'd like to remove just the pump and not the whole pump/housing assembly. I understand that there is a chance to shear some of the 7 bolts that hold the pump to the housing. I've read my Bentley's.
Any ideas?
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#1
by
theman53
on 03 Apr, 2014 20:40
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does it have power steering? Makes it a ton harder.
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#2
by
vanbcguy
on 03 Apr, 2014 22:15
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If you want to try and pull the pump without removing the housing really all you have to do is remove the belts and undo the bolts. Depending on how much corrosion you've got it may just come apart, it may be a total pain. I just stole a bunch of bolts out of an old pump I had lying around for something else, they all came out without issue. I don't live in a super road salt kind of area though.
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#3
by
Dakotakid
on 03 Apr, 2014 22:40
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The ONLY time I have been able to remove the little bolts without problems was in 1985 on a 1981 pickup (vehicle only 4 years old). I suggest you use a propane torch on the head of the bolt....fair amount of heat with short amount of time. Allow the heat to soak in. Carefully rock the bolt back and forth. Maybe apply more heat, etc.
When you put the hemispheres back together.......get to know the term "anti-seize" very well.
You might get lucky and work on a pump which was replaced just a few years ago. Then again.....you might find a tin can full of gold coins in the dirt!
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#4
by
thomas m
on 04 Apr, 2014 08:53
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My car does have power steering.....I wish it did not. So what, it would drive just like my Toyota pickup with(OOPS I MEAN WITHOUT)PS. Muscle builder.....!!!
I'm in Vancouver, WA. No road salt ever on this car. I'm the original owner.
So, do I understand correctly that I will have to:
get the PS pump out of the way;
remove the water pump pulley; (might be easier to do this as I will put it on another pump)
remove the v-belts(not the camshaft belt).
Then I will have access to the 7 bolts which hold the water pump to the housing.
I will NOT have to take the timing belt off for any reason assuming that I can get all of the 7 bolts out and will not have to remove the whole water pump assembly. I pray not......yet.
The heat trick sounds good. Heat to expand the aluminum, judicious tapping to loosen crud and maybe some WD40 for good measure.
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#5
by
TylerDurden
on 04 Apr, 2014 09:38
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I doubt that WP is coming out (or apart) without removing the timing belt.
I just take off the whole pile of stuff and put it all back on with antiseize so I can get the bits off easily next time.
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#6
by
burn_your_money
on 04 Apr, 2014 12:24
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You should be able to remove the whole assembly without taking the timing belt off by removing the alternator and going in that way. You'll need a 13mm 1/4" drive with a wobble extension or possibly one of the flex extension things (I can't think of the proper name right now)
The power steering pump comes off with 2 13mm bolts on the bottom by the pan and 2 13mm bolts behind the crank pulley. There might be one long one that needs to come out as well.
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#7
by
thomas m
on 04 Apr, 2014 14:38
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OK. It looks to me like this is more complex (for my skill level) than what I expected because of the 7 bolts.
Let me get this straight:
Let's say, just for discussion, the 7 bolts will come out very easily ......if so, then:
drop the PS pump;
take off the V-belts;
take off the WP pulley;
remove the 7 bolts, which are (hypothetically) easy to take out
take the pump off of the housing.
Is that basically correct?
I understand that there could be issues that will make it more difficult.
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#8
by
TylerDurden
on 04 Apr, 2014 14:44
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I think the intermediate-shaft pulley is in the way, so the timing belt will need to be at least slacked, and clamped to the other pulleys so timing is maintained when the IM pulley is removed.
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#9
by
thomas m
on 04 Apr, 2014 15:16
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Nice pic, Tyler!
And, it appears that the lower timing belt cover also has to be removed in order to get at the intermediate shaft pulley and therefore also the crank pulley.
I think, if I have the worked farmed out, when time comes for a new timing belt (50,000 miles) it would be a good idea to have the shop put in a new water pump also.......maybe every other time???!!!!
And crankshaft seal, cam seal, injection pump seal?
unless minimal leakage???
Does that sound like overkill???
I'd love to do all of this work myself, but my skills, facilities and confidence are limited.
For me this is all an experiment with 2 outcomes.
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#10
by
TylerDurden
on 04 Apr, 2014 15:30
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The v-belt pulleys come off the crank sprocket without too much trouble, but I prefer to take off the IP, alt, compressor, and brackets. Then all that stuff can be put back with antiseize, so it is not a hair-pulling experience the next time.
Once the alt bracket has been R&R'd, it (and the waterpump) can be carefully slipped out without entirely removing the IP.
If you intend to keep the car for the next few years, a fresh TB is good insurance.
All of this can be done by an amateur, with support from this crowd.
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#11
by
thomas m
on 04 Apr, 2014 18:16
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Tyler,
I do intend to keep this car. No turbo, no air conditioning, has power steering.
The newer cars scare me....this one is so simple.
What is "TB"?
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#12
by
theman53
on 04 Apr, 2014 18:19
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timing belt
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#13
by
smutts
on 05 Apr, 2014 12:55
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X2 on the intermediate pulley being in the way.
Pulling the entire pump and the UGLY cast iron abomination that clamps the water pump to the block and holds the alternator on is a piece of p*ss apart from THAT WRETCHED B***TARD BOLT hiding beneath the injection pump. It takes me an hour of swearing to get it out. Pulling the dipstick tube for better access will bite with oil leaks afterwards.
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#14
by
TylerDurden
on 05 Apr, 2014 16:03
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If one curses auf Deutsch, they come out faster.
