Need Procedure to Remove Water Pump 1.6 vw Diesel Non-turbo

[thomas m]

OK..............so now it seems that PLAN A would be:

Remove the pump without removing the entire pump housing:

1. begin the procedure for replacing the timing belt; lock the camshaft and FI pump, etc. (may as well replace it since its right there)

2. but first, remove the intermediate shaft pulley. This should expose the 7 water pump bolts.

3. carefully remove the bolts and replace the pump using new gasket, anti-seize paste, etc.

4. replace the intermediate pulley

5. complete the procedure


If the bolts shear off, then go to Plan B

Pull off the rest of those brackets and related stuff and take the entire water pump assembly off
and deal with the stuck bolts or buy a new or used assembly.........I hope not !!

[TylerDurden]

I'd get the tools and parts to do the entire waterpump & housing, tstat & housing. I'd also replace the lower heater return hose... do the TB and seals later.

That usually will mean pulling the IP and re-timing the engine (unless you are slick), so the timing tools are needed, sprocket holder, two-jaw puller and a valve-cover gasket. I'd get clear fuel line and a mighty-vac (or knockoff) for aid in R&R-ing the IP.

Order of ops (take pix before each step):
buy large container of antiseize, nitrile gloves, favorite beverages

loosen waterpump pulley capscrews

remove air cleaner snorkle if needed

set engine to TDC

loosen v-belts

remove PS pump

Remove waterpump pulley

drain coolant by disconnecting lower rad hose from tstat housing

disconnect battery, cables, remove alternator

disconnect IP electrics

Disconnect fuel inlet and outlet & injector-return lines, (disconnect throttle & coldstart cables if removing IP from engine bay)

****Keep fuel lines, ports, banjo-bolts, fittings, washers, hardlines, etc., SURGICALLY CLEAN. Cover injector threads/openings with caps or aluminum foil.****

remove upper TB cover

remove injector lines as a set
loosen by 6mm (don't remove) IP sprocket nut
slack timing belt idler
slip belt off IP sprocket, might need to slip it half-off cam sprocket
slide some thin cardboard (or rag) behind and under IP sprocket to catch the woodruff key if it falls out
tension IP sprocket with a 2-jaw puller and whack sprocket from opposite side to free it
remove IP sprocket nut and don't lose the woodruff key when removing sprocket (keep magnetic tool handy)
scratch marks on the IP and bracket by the bolt closest to the fuel inlet, to help restore to original position.
remove two nuts on the sprocket side of bracket, one bolt by the fuel inlet and one bolt below by the dipstick
set IP aside in a small plastic tub (it will dribble fuel), clean any fuel off rubber hoses & belts.[/li]

Remove alternator bracket

Remove waterpump & lower heater return hose


take break
**********


put antiseize on all fastener threads

put pulley, tstat and housing on new WP

reinstall: WP & alt bracket, lower heater return hose, lower rad hose

reinstall IP to original position, use marks.

reinstall sprocket and key using rag or cardboard under shaft. don't drop key into lower TB cover

reinstall TB and set cam & IP timing as per Bentley

reinstall TB cover

reinstall injector lines and fuel send/return lines, use clear line & vac on IP outlet to pull fuel into IP and purge air.

reconnect IP electrics

refill cooling system via upper rad hose & rez.

reinstall alternator, cables

reinstall PS pump

reinstall v-belts




This is off the top of my head, so please consult other members for clarity/omissions

If you want to go further and change TB and seals too, you can... but it's not a big deal to do the WP stuff first and do the TB & seals later.

[thomas m]

Thanks for taking the time, Tyler.
Makes sense to me.
Maybe others will comment and add their thoughts.

My car is in the shop to have the cooling system renewed which should fix the overheat problem.
I replaced the heat core myself. Not very difficult on my model.
Next, engine damage, if any, will have to be determined. I'm hopeful that, aside from a hose flange leak, I'll be back on the road.

However, I'm keeping this car for the duration and hope to do this work myself next time.
Again, thanks for the procedure.

[somolovitch3]

Ummmmm....................Large holes in IP Sprocket line up with WP bolts.  I Just usally pull the entire WP and do the rebuild on the bench. But I admit to being lazy!!!!!!!!

[Dakotakid]

You're not lazy....nor afraid of your own shadow, either. This entire thread was rather pointless. Why go to great lengths to have people waste their time drawing a picture when the job just gets hired done?

I'm a big fan of logic and other's "thoughts" were solicited! (rim shot)

[thomas m]

When I read the forum I don't really care whether the person finished the job or not. I learn a lot from people who are willing to share their knowledge without judgement and appreciate them giving it. For me, this is a learning experience and how I participate is up to me. This thread is chock full of useful information for anyone attempting this repair procedure.

Besides, it seems to me that any judgements as to whether a posting is pointless or not, is, well,......rather pointless???!!!!!!!