I'd get the tools and parts to do the entire waterpump & housing, tstat & housing. I'd also replace the lower heater return hose... do the TB and seals later.
That usually will mean pulling the IP and re-timing the engine (unless you are slick), so the timing tools are needed, sprocket holder, two-jaw puller and a valve-cover gasket. I'd get clear fuel line and a mighty-vac (or knockoff) for aid in R&R-ing the IP.
Order of ops (take pix before each step):
buy large container of antiseize, nitrile gloves, favorite beverages
loosen waterpump pulley capscrews
remove air cleaner snorkle if needed
set engine to TDC
loosen v-belts
remove PS pump
Remove waterpump pulley
drain coolant by disconnecting lower rad hose from tstat housing
disconnect battery, cables, remove alternator
disconnect IP electrics
Disconnect fuel inlet and outlet & injector-return lines, (disconnect throttle & coldstart cables if removing IP from engine bay)
****Keep fuel lines, ports, banjo-bolts, fittings, washers, hardlines, etc., SURGICALLY CLEAN. Cover injector threads/openings with caps or aluminum foil.****
remove upper TB cover
remove injector lines as a set
loosen by 6mm (don't remove) IP sprocket nut
slack timing belt idler
slip belt off IP sprocket, might need to slip it half-off cam sprocket
slide some thin cardboard (or rag) behind and under IP sprocket to catch the woodruff key if it falls out
tension IP sprocket with a 2-jaw puller and whack sprocket from opposite side to free it
remove IP sprocket nut and don't lose the woodruff key when removing sprocket (keep magnetic tool handy)
scratch marks on the IP and bracket by the bolt closest to the fuel inlet, to help restore to original position.
remove two nuts on the sprocket side of bracket, one bolt by the fuel inlet and one bolt below by the dipstick
set IP aside in a small plastic tub (it will dribble fuel), clean any fuel off rubber hoses & belts.[/li]
Remove alternator bracket
Remove waterpump & lower heater return hose
take break
**********
put antiseize on all fastener threads
put pulley, tstat and housing on new WP
reinstall: WP & alt bracket, lower heater return hose, lower rad hose
reinstall IP to original position, use marks.
reinstall sprocket and key using rag or cardboard under shaft. don't drop key into lower TB cover
reinstall TB and set cam & IP timing as per Bentley
reinstall TB cover
reinstall injector lines and fuel send/return lines, use clear line & vac on IP outlet to pull fuel into IP and purge air.
reconnect IP electrics
refill cooling system via upper rad hose & rez.
reinstall alternator, cables
reinstall PS pump
reinstall v-belts
This is off the top of my head, so please consult other members for clarity/omissions
If you want to go further and change TB and seals too, you can... but it's not a big deal to do the WP stuff first and do the TB & seals later.
