-
#195
by
vwroadkill
on 27 Nov, 2012 17:45
-
have you bought floor pans yet?
I hope after spending all this time. you are going to buy some floor pans..
Dan
-
#196
by
8v-of-fury
on 27 Nov, 2012 21:14
-
have you bought floor pans yet? I hope after spending all this time. you are going to buy some floor pans..
Dan
Use some self tapping screws and some thick sheet metal. Done. I've done it before! LMAO.
The throttle does nothing on your pump because it is full of air, from when you had the fuel lines disconnected. Also why its running ***ty.
Where is it leaking from on the injectors? the small lines in between? did you remove the lines when you did the swap?
-
#197
by
vw-tim
on 28 Nov, 2012 17:54
-
have you bought floor pans yet? I hope after spending all this time. you are going to buy some floor pans..
Dan
Use some self tapping screws and some thick sheet metal. Done. I've done it before! LMAO.
The throttle does nothing on your pump because it is full of air, from when you had the fuel lines disconnected. Also why its running ***ty.
Where is it leaking from on the injectors? the small lines in between? did you remove the lines when you did the swap?
haha honestly i might say *** it and do the self tapping screws
haha
so the injectors were bubbling up seems like with fuel i pulled them out and used teflon tape and replaced them and made sure they were all torqued down i havent started it up yet to see.
so if there is air in the fuel system then thats the reason for no throttle i did bleed the pump pulling fuel threw the return line. i might of not had the steel lines on tight enough i will check all of this soon and start it up again and see how she does.
-
#198
by
745 turbogreasel
on 28 Nov, 2012 18:20
-
No sealant of any kind is needed or desired within an inch of the injectors
-
#199
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Nov, 2012 20:39
-
No tape on injectors, anti seize maybe a light coat but no tape. Too hot, wrong application, this isn't a natural gas line here. Sometimes pumps kind of hold and hide some air in them even after they start up and idle. I see it when I tear apart the pump or really get it filled with air on the WVO side. Yeah, when it is acting poorly.
If you watch the clear line on the return hose you will see these racing back to the mother ship of the fuel tank at times when you race it up. Do that a few times after you get it warmed up. Oh you don't have a clear line yet? For Shame.
I wonder if the tape is going to cause you to have to re-torque these after a bit?
-
#200
by
vw-tim
on 29 Nov, 2012 01:24
-
No tape on injectors, anti seize maybe a light coat but no tape. Too hot, wrong application, this isn't a natural gas line here. Sometimes pumps kind of hold and hide some air in them even after they start up and idle. I see it when I tear apart the pump or really get it filled with air on the WVO side. Yeah, when it is acting poorly.
If you watch the clear line on the return hose you will see these racing back to the mother ship of the fuel tank at times when you race it up. Do that a few times after you get it warmed up. Oh you don't have a clear line yet? For Shame.
I wonder if the tape is going to cause you to have to re-torque these after a bit?
ha its just alittle tape on the threads but yeah i didnt really consider the heat and what it might do to it.. but eh im sure itll be alright
whats the worse that could happen? and okay so even if it does start up i just gotta run it for alittle while and it should get all the air out and then idle for me?
also im kind of condisering picking up this clean gas shell the engine doesnt run on it and i was wondering about like when i got to register it am i going to have ot do smog and all that stuff on it because its registerd as a gas car? and if the fuel tank is good on it can i use it and put diesel into it after i drain all the gas out of it? or do i have to buy a new fuel tank for the diesel
-
#201
by
745 turbogreasel
on 29 Nov, 2012 04:20
-
-
#202
by
JamesT
on 29 Nov, 2012 04:41
-
http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_barresources/07_autorepair/engine_change_guidelines.html
That's California. In the sane world you go to the licensing bureau or wherever you register your vehicle, notify them of the change, possibly pay a small paperwork fee, and that's it. If your area has some yearly emissions testing, the change in the registration will be noted and the vehicle will be tested as such. For a diesel, that usually means a simple exhaust-gas opacity test (ie. how visible the exhaust is, but analysed by a computer).
I used the tank from the gasser when I did my swap. I just cleaned it by washing it through a few times with diesel fuel. Mk1 filler necks are huge openings, so you won't have a problem filling with diesel nozzles. My fuel gauge reads a little less linearly, but that may have been my tweaking it accidentally when I re-installed it.
-
#203
by
vw-tim
on 29 Nov, 2012 12:16
-
http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_barresources/07_autorepair/engine_change_guidelines.html
That's California. In the sane world you go to the licensing bureau or wherever you register your vehicle, notify them of the change, possibly pay a small paperwork fee, and that's it. If your area has some yearly emissions testing, the change in the registration will be noted and the vehicle will be tested as such. For a diesel, that usually means a simple exhaust-gas opacity test (ie. how visible the exhaust is, but analysed by a computer).
I used the tank from the gasser when I did my swap. I just cleaned it by washing it through a few times with diesel fuel. Mk1 filler necks are huge openings, so you won't have a problem filling with diesel nozzles. My fuel gauge reads a little less linearly, but that may have been my tweaking it accidentally when I re-installed it.
good deal thanks man that makes me feel better about doing this swap then if i did pick up a gasser.
-
#204
by
vw-tim
on 04 Dec, 2012 18:03
-
Okay so heres a video of the engine running it wont idle is there still air in the system? could it be because the IP is not in time? i dont have the gauge to get it in time yet.
tons of white smoke. and also when i went to turn off the motor i have the IP Stop Fuel Solenoid on a wire connected to the positive i unplugged it and the engine wouldnt turn off i then un did the negative and it still wouldnt turn off. ended up dieing after not giving it more fuel. what could that be from?
-
#205
by
TylerDurden
on 04 Dec, 2012 18:13
-
Hard to pin it down until you are in the ballpark, timing with a gauge. The lever having no effect and the failure to stop is strange.
A clear line from the out-bolt will tell if air is still in the IP.
-
#206
by
ORCoaster
on 04 Dec, 2012 18:48
-
Is there a spring in that solenoid or not? Seems to get fuel past it somehow. Got something stuck in there producing a gap?
-
#207
by
vw-tim
on 04 Dec, 2012 20:18
-
Is there a spring in that solenoid or not? Seems to get fuel past it somehow. Got something stuck in there producing a gap?
thats what i was kind of thinking i do have another IP im thinking about hooking it up and seeing how the stop fuel solenoid works on it compared to this one. maybe this solenoid is just open all the time like stuck does that happen?
-
#208
by
ORCoaster
on 04 Dec, 2012 21:53
-
Oh, yeah it does. They wear a bit and maybe it is just hung up. Get a big wrench on it and pop it a good one to free it up. Check it with jumper wires across the battery when you go to put it back in. It should pull up and hold the plunger up until you take the voltage off it. Careful there is a spring inside the plunger that is supposed to push it closed at that time. So don't lose them small parts.
-
#209
by
745 turbogreasel
on 05 Dec, 2012 06:01
-
My bigger Husky saw idles just like that
Try 1 more spline on your throttle shaft in the apply throttle moves it further direction.