I so wanted to do the E I E I OH? thing but without that picture I wasn't sure you would get the pun. OLD MCDONALD had an engine. Sing it baby.
So they didn't surface the head, replace guides, grind or replace valve seats, pressure test set valve face depth, set precup stickout, check for collapsed lifters...
okay well heres the deal i bought the car for $500 the engine that was in it the block had a broken rod the go threw in 2 other spare 1.5L diesels one complete and the other was just a tranny and block so what i did was i took the head that was on the car orignially got all the valves and everything re done on thatGot exactly what redone?
Was it pressure tested?
check it for warpage just in case
Was valve clearance checked? make sure there is some clearance with the cam lobes pointed up.
check the one from the donor block for a big warp at the middle, or a crack to H2o.
Never presume that because a machine shop did work that it was done right.and i took of the blocks that i cranked and it was free from binds and what not and i didnt do anything to the block except put on a new clutch kit and oil pan i
... i probably should of thought this wasnt right and stopped but i kept going and i torqued them all to 36 or whatever the book says.. do you think maybe because they were hanging up they might of been torqued but it was not accurate reason for not having the compression?clean it well, and measure stickup of all 4 pistons very carefully. if this block previously hydro locked in these 2 adjacent holes, the rods may be quite bent. all 4 should spec for the same head gasket thickness at the least.
What is the procedure you are currently using to tighten the head bolts?
IMO ring wear in 2 cyls is not the most likely thing.
i was told that the head got all new valves and it was checked for warpage valve clearance was checked i was told it was all good to go but to just make sure to do the valve shims
okay ill measure how much the pistons come up and see what they say.. and how i torq it down i go by what the Bentley says...? is that what you mean?
You will probably find the best way is to remove a shim from the pack fitted on the ones with no clearance ( if there is only 1 then you will have to substitute in a thinner shim). Torque it all back up and then re measure.
I would use a shim of half the thickness of the ones fitted to check what clearance you have.
Before you go changing anything you need to know what your baseline start position is.
How dead was the battery?
Go ahead and waste your money, but you really should read back through this thread, make every check that has been recommended, answer every question in detail, compile the results, and post all of it here in a clear, specific, and detailed way.
The info you need to make a correct diagnosis is here in this thread already.
If you skip steps, it will come out wrong almost every time.
I could tell you whats wrong, but without data to back my answer up, I'd be skipping a step, creating a chance I'd be wrong, then you'd go make the wrong repair and probably blame me.
/jaded prick mode.