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#45
by
billybobf
on 12 Apr, 2012 13:35
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My 89 golf has the ASF, its a gas GL, same trans as the ACN I believe, 3.67 and .75 are final and fifth
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#46
by
bbob203
on 12 Apr, 2012 13:53
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got a handle on an asf for 200. do they have the green seals?
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#47
by
billybobf
on 12 Apr, 2012 17:00
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they should have the new seals, I thought the green sleeves were to modify the old to the new,
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#48
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 13 Apr, 2012 05:37
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Several members highly recommend the probe from aircraftspruce.com
Surprisingly inexpensive considering the praise it gets. I haven't tried one myself, but I think the next one I need, I will try one.
As for the location, you want to put in the manifold just before turbo, like so:
There's a small flat spot on the bottom that works nicely.
My EGT probe from Auber Instr is due to arrive today or tomorrow. Do you know if I there is enough access to drill the bottom of the exhaust manifold with the manifold/ turbo in place on an Ecodiesel? The bolts on the turbo are really rusted and difficult to access and I would not even attempt pulling the turbo. I haven't crawled under the car to have a look yet.
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#49
by
Blocksmith
on 13 Apr, 2012 16:55
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I imagine you can drill it out in the car, sure. If I remember correctly there should be enough room to stick a drill between the downpipe and oil drain line, and of course the axle (though you may have to remove the axle, I really dunno for sure). I would be more worried about the tapping / welding. I welded a special hollow bolt on for mine, which I suppose could be done without removing the mani, but if you're going to tap it manually, I would be worried about clearance of the tap handle around the downpipe and oil drain line, and keeping it all straight. Using a drill to tap shouldn't be an issue, if you got it drilled in the first place.
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#50
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 13 Apr, 2012 19:12
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I imagine you can drill it out in the car, sure. If I remember correctly there should be enough room to stick a drill between the downpipe and oil drain line, and of course the axle (though you may have to remove the axle, I really dunno for sure). I would be more worried about the tapping / welding. I welded a special hollow bolt on for mine, which I suppose could be done without removing the mani, but if you're going to tap it manually, I would be worried about clearance of the tap handle around the downpipe and oil drain line, and keeping it all straight. Using a drill to tap shouldn't be an issue, if you got it drilled in the first place.
I crawled under and took a look. If the axle is removed , there would be room to get a drill in there. What do you think is less work? Pulling the axle (have not done it before) and drill and tap from below? or pull inlet manifold and turbo/ exhaust manifold and drill and tap on the bench? I have done a head gasket job last summer so should not have any rusted nuts and bolts issues. Should have drilled ad tapped it when the head was off but I was in a rush to get the job done and forgot about it.
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#51
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 13 Apr, 2012 20:15
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I imagine you can drill it out in the car, sure. If I remember correctly there should be enough room to stick a drill between the downpipe and oil drain line, and of course the axle (though you may have to remove the axle, I really dunno for sure). I would be more worried about the tapping / welding. I welded a special hollow bolt on for mine, which I suppose could be done without removing the mani, but if you're going to tap it manually, I would be worried about clearance of the tap handle around the downpipe and oil drain line, and keeping it all straight. Using a drill to tap shouldn't be an issue, if you got it drilled in the first place.
I crawled under and took a look. If the axle is removed , there would be room to get a drill in there. What do you think is less work? Pulling the axle (have not done it before) and drill and tap from below? or pull inlet manifold and turbo/ exhaust manifold and drill and tap on the bench? I have done a head gasket job last summer so should not have any rusted nuts and bolts issues. Should have drilled ad tapped it when the head was off but I was in a rush to get the job done and forgot about it.
pass axle is CAKE to remove. dont even have to separate the ball joint from the a-arm.. just comes out..
BE 100% sure to torque the BIG AXLE NUT to ~190 ft lbs..
if you dont torque the nut enough, or torque it too tight, it will mess up your wheel bearing.
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#52
by
bbob203
on 14 Apr, 2012 10:20
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id pull the axle. GO to napa and get the 12 point searated bit to remove the bolts it 5 bucks. a 30mm on the axle nut some blaster on the spline a soft hammer and it slides right out. voila space to drill.
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#53
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 14 Apr, 2012 10:23
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bit is 8mm XZN triple square (double hex)
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#54
by
bbob203
on 14 Apr, 2012 10:32
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yea forgot to put 8mm. but napa calls it a serated bit.
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#55
by
bbob203
on 14 Apr, 2012 10:35
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on the td engine I'm freshing up on the engine stand right now I want to drill and tap it while its easy and just put a bolt in it until I have the extra money for the guage. what size tap should I use?
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#56
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 14 Apr, 2012 10:50
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on the td engine I'm freshing up on the engine stand right now I want to drill and tap it while its easy and just put a bolt in it until I have the extra money for the guage. what size tap should I use?
i wouldnt tap it till you know what size it needs to be..
not all pyro probes have the same size standard fitting..
so, to be safe, and avoid issues, just wait to drill, or buy your probe, and install it as the plug for the hole. you dont have to hook it up, leave the gauge wires un hooked, tucked safely out of the way..
the probe is cheap. the gauge is the spendy part.
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#57
by
bbob203
on 14 Apr, 2012 11:46
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aircraft spruce micro 1000 all the way
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#58
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 14 Apr, 2012 12:02
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aircraft spruce micro 1000 all the way
If you get the micro 1000 EP132 EGT Probe, it is 1/8 NPT, same as my Auber Instr exposed junction fast response probe. The 1/8 NPT is for a compression fitting which allows adjusting the depth of the probe.
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#59
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 Apr, 2012 12:24
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pass axle is CAKE to remove. dont even have to separate the ball joint from the a-arm.. just comes out..
BE 100% sure to torque the BIG AXLE NUT to ~190 ft lbs..
if you dont torque the nut enough, or torque it too tight, it will mess up your wheel bearing.
Have to remove the pinch bolt on the ball joint to separate it from the wheel bearing knuckle? Is the ball joint shaft splined? Do I need to mark it so it goes back together the same?