EGT probe for my EcoDiesel

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

Now that I've done the governor mod and loving it, what's a good EGT probe that will fit my EcoDiesel that will provide quick response? I already have the (electronic) gauge from Auber Instruments, but the probe I have from them has more mass than I'd like and may not provide the quickest response time. So I am in the market for a better probe. What is the optimal position in the exhause manifold for the probe? Any pics?

[Blocksmith]

Several members highly recommend the probe from aircraftspruce.com   
Surprisingly inexpensive considering the praise it gets. I haven't tried one myself, but I think the next one I need, I will try one.
As for the location, you want to put in the manifold just before turbo, like so:



There's a small flat spot on the bottom that works nicely.

[camboscams]

I have the auber egt gauge too and have nothing negative to say about. I have the exposed tip thermocouple and its really fast! If you let it idle down and the temps stabilize you can turn the headlights on and the load on the alternator and the slight decrease in engine speed will make the temp change, its really accurate! Here's the http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_22&products_id=69

[EcoTX]

I ran the Gov mod in my Ecodiesel and it was fun for a little while, but my mileage dropped to around 41-42 mpg no matter how I drove it and I was only getting around 600 miles per 14-15 gallon fillup consistently for 5-6 tanks. The mileage hit and along with all the soot it was blowing just wasn't worth the extra power to me so I'm back to slow and steady Ecodiesel.  It's like a completely different car again without all that fuel being dumped in.  I replaced my injectors yesterday and the nozzles and heatshields had tons of carbon buildup on them, that was only about 2500 miles with the gov mod.  I had a modified 8mm socket ground down and had mine completely shimmed, I put the stock spring back in and got it dialed in and I can already see those consistent 48-50 mpg tanks coming back.  The governor mod wasn't for me, just wasn't worth the hit in mileage that I was spoiled with in stock form.  I don't mind sacrificing power for 8-10 more MPG's, but that is just my opinion.

[R.O.R-2.0]

I ran the Gov mod in my Ecodiesel and it was fun for a little while, but my mileage dropped to around 41-42 mpg no matter how I drove it and I was only getting around 600 miles per 14-15 gallon fillup consistently for 5-6 tanks. The mileage hit and along with all the soot it was blowing just wasn't worth the extra power to me so I'm back to slow and steady Ecodiesel.  It's like a completely different car again without all that fuel being dumped in.  I replaced my injectors yesterday and the nozzles and heatshields had tons of carbon buildup on them, that was only about 2500 miles with the gov mod.  I had a modified 8mm socket ground down and had mine completely shimmed, I put the stock spring back in and got it dialed in and I can already see those consistent 48-50 mpg tanks coming back.  The governor mod wasn't for me, just wasn't worth the hit in mileage that I was spoiled with in stock form.  I don't mind sacrificing power for 8-10 more MPG's, but that is just my opinion.

you had a cat still huh? if you dont remove the cat, and increase fueling, the cat gets partially clogged from all the extra soot..

cut the cat off, and you wont loose mpg..

the governor mod SHOULD NOT degrade your mileage, if you do it right..

[8v-of-fury]

the governor mod SHOULD NOT degrade your mileage, if you do it right..

Absolutely agree. You are not changing the pumps capabilities to fuel, you are only allowing it to keep fueling higher in the rpm range. So, unfortunately there was no correlation between the governor mod and your decreased mileage. There was however a relation between your newly plugged up catalytic converter and the mileage though .

With the governor mod, you must remember you have not altered the pump in anyway. Other then the fact that you have changed its governor, which has a sole purpose of limiting RPM simply by cutting fuel.

[R.O.R-2.0]

so, basically, if you re-do your gov-mod, and cut off the cat, you will notice NO DROP in MPG figures..

but, with the cat in place still, and the gov-mod, its a no go.. the cat gets saturated every time you soot it up, then its just an exhaust restriction, resulting in a LARGE LOSS of economy..

[EcoTX]

Maybe one day if I ever modify the exhaust, I will put my shim back in and see if it helps.  The power increase was nice, but doing 90% highway driving like I do, I very rarely got to use the power much.  I just hang out in the right (slow) lane going around 60mph all the time anyway.  Getting paid per mile when driving for work, I am after the absolute best mileage possible, since they do their fuel reimbursement calculations assuming most people are getting 20-25 mpg, I'm making more than double of what the other people driving are making simply by owning a 20 yr old vehicle powered by a simple, efficient diesel engine.  I brag and brag about it to all the guys commuting in their huge V8 pickups barely breaking even!  Just doesn't make sense to me...

On another note, I do have a true TD pump I'm prepping to go in and want to see how that behaves power/mileage wise.  Probably would be the same as with the gov mod with exhaust restriction like yall think.

I'm re-sealing it now and taking a bunch of high res pictures of the process and hope to put together a nice proper pump reseal tutorial / sticky here for the forums. 
An issue I see though is of course the delivery vane length and the ECOdiesel fuel lines...


I think I'm going to have to swap the vanes from the ECO pump onto this TD pump so my lines will fit, I don't want to bend / skew the lines to MAKE them fit... any problems with swapping delivery vanes?

Don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but hey it's ECOdiesel specific talk at least...

[theman53]

I think the only reason other than the cat an eco could be getting worse mileage with the gov mod is the trans they used. I think it had 4.20:1 ring and pinion gear in the trans they came stock with. So if the gov isn't cutting fuel and you are reving like crazy it probably is using more.

[R.O.R-2.0]

I think the only reason other than the cat an eco could be getting worse mileage with the gov mod is the trans they used. I think it had 4.20:1 ring and pinion gear in the trans they came stock with. So if the gov isn't cutting fuel and you are reving like crazy it probably is using more.

AVX trans came in the ecodiesel..

4.25:1 r&p

.75 5th gear..

[Blocksmith]

AVX trans came in the ecodiesel..

4.25:1 r&p

.75 5th gear..

That SUUUUUUCKS. Time for a tranny swap. An FN out of a bone yard GASSER would be a fantastic upgrade compared to that....

[EcoTX]

I think the only reason other than the cat an eco could be getting worse mileage with the gov mod is the trans they used. I think it had 4.20:1 ring and pinion gear in the trans they came stock with. So if the gov isn't cutting fuel and you are reving like crazy it probably is using more.

I know everyone here loves to hate on the AVX, but I just don't think turning 3-400 RPM lower is worth the time and money hunting down another transmission to swap.  It's like the 5th gear swaps for the TDI's, they cost like 300 bucks, 300 dollars will buy a lot of diesel and you'd have to drive a ton to recoup getting maybe .5-1 mpg (?) further.  And that's just it, who really knows if it makes a measurable difference running 2600 RPM vs 2900 RPM is an ECOdiesel at 60 mph.  There are a lot of variables to consider that only the Germans who engineered this stuff have answers to.  I would love to pick one of the engineers brains and just ask him, "Why didn't you just put a tranny in there that turns 2000 RPM at 70 mph so I could get 70 mpg with it?", since that seems to be the way of thinking lower RPM= more MPG.  He would no doubt laugh in my face.  I imagine he'd say that there is a compromise of RPM, power, and fuel usage that breaks down somewhere in all the BSFC charts, thermodynamics, yadda yadda and that they built the ECOdiesel the way they did for a reason.  I know the AVX is capable of 50 MPG tanks consistently for the type of driving I do, which is good enough for me.  I would love to swap the 4A in since I already have it and it is 99.9% ratio comparable to the much touted 3.67/.75 combo trans, but I am just not able to at this time.  If I ever do I would love to do some mileage testing to get some answers on the AVX vs 3.67/.75 mileage debate  lol.

This last round of driving for work was all over flat and windy west Texas, nearly 2000 miles 95% highway the last few weeks.  I did a few tanks driving my "normal" way (like a grandma) 55-60 a whole tank, got around 41-42 mpg.  I then tried a few tanks with more spirited and faster going 65-70 the whole tank, mileage was still the same 41-42, very consistent.  I topped up into the filler neck till I could see diesel everytime, and ran it to just below the red everytime so my methods for calculating mileage were consistent.  The worse tank of the journey was the first one, driving into a 20 mph head / crosswind for about 250 miles with rain.  That tank I averaged 38-39, one of the worse tanks ever recorded in the car.  Wind definitely plays a factor.

Real world testing has shown going slower nets more mpg especially in stock form, but it just felt like to me with the governor mod my static fueling was just locked in to a set amount no matter how I drove.  It had the power I guess to get the same mileage at higher speeds, but when I went slower it just didn't matter cause of the gov mod and max fuel screw adjustments just kept fueling too high...  Another thing when I put my stock spring back in, my RPM's hanged when I rev'd it so had to back out the max fuel screw to get it acting normal.  I had the max fuel screw in quite a bit perhaps was my issue instead...  I remember having to turn it in quite a bit to get it running right after doing the gov mod...perhaps my shim was too extreme?  I could barely get that little E clip back on with my solid socket shim on the governor.

Something else I notice too is if I run a tank without additive (grey Power Service), my coolant gauge will read just slightly lower than the middle and will barely rise to middle on a long hill pull or something.  It would heat up very quickly if idled for a bit too.  But if I run a tank with additive, it will be dead-on straight up and down in the middle while driving where it should be, and won't seem to get as hot while idling for extended periods.  Something to do with cetane and combustion efficiency I think.  I always fill up with the absolute cheapest diesel I can find, which was usually Wal-mart (Murphy's) with the extra 3¢ off if you use their gift card to buy fuel.  So probably not the best quality higher cetane fuel, but with an additive it seems to run in the more sweet spot of the efficiency range.

You can swap the longer delivery valves into the other pump, but you will need to adjust the max fuel screw by a fair bit.

Thanks for this info.

[8v-of-fury]

I think the only reason other than the cat an eco could be getting worse mileage with the gov mod is the trans they used. I think it had 4.20:1 ring and pinion gear in the trans they came stock with. So if the gov isn't cutting fuel and you are reving like crazy it probably is using more.

AVX trans came in the ecodiesel..

4.25:1 r&p

.75 5th gear..

That still only 2900rpms with stock wheels, at 100k/60m..

AMEN EcoTx .

[8v-of-fury]

Also, to be completely honest? the 3.67/.75 trans is nothing to get all excited about. Probably the worst transmission Volkswagen offered to have behind a diesel engine.. IMHO. I have the ACN (3.67/.75) in my 84 right now behind my AHU M-TDI.. I pretty much can say I hate it. lol

The gears are sooo close together that I either shift 1-3-5 if I need to start in 1st, or 2-4-5 if I can start in 2nd.. I can cruise through town in 5th gear no problem at 55-60km/h (1400-1500RPM). I would have used the FN if it were a post-84 trans and had the conical washers in it.. even with the stock 1.6na I had one wheel peel issues on dry corners.

I would recommend going with the 4 speed for sure, especially the 4A. It is a very wide geared transmission so that each gear will actually have usefulness.. I have a 4A as well, but unknown mileage, and I lacked a 4spd mount at the time of the swap. I may still swap it in as the wide ratios would much better suit the TDI torque.

[pointynoggin]

regarding highway engine speed, I like the gearing because I can get the boost up when I need it.  If I am under 2500rpm it is best to down shift.