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Finally Replacing the Injection Pump, Any tips?
by
srgtlord
on 22 Feb, 2012 10:36
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So after 3 years of a dripping injection pump, I pulled the timing cover the other day to find my timing belt covered in diesel and a crack down the middle. I bought a pump from 8-valves of fury a few months ago and have been putting off replacing the leaking pump. Does anyone have any advise on performing this leap? P.S. I have the timing tools and pump dial gauge and I have done the timing belt 40,000 miles ago.
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#1
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 Feb, 2012 10:58
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Take the cam/valve cover off and get the engine to TDC by getting a 19mm triple point or a 13/16" normal socket on the crank pulley bolt. Rotate it clockwise until you get your cam lookin like this;
and you can see this in the timing hole;
At this point you can loosen the 15mm tensioner nut and pop the belt off, it probably won't come off to easily so I like to take the camshaft pulley off at this point to ease my troubles. 19mm socket. Either of these tools will work in holding the camshaft when you undo the camshaft nut.
Just whatever you do, do not use the cam lock at the end of the cam to hold it while you crank on that bolt.. it will snap the end of the cam off or worse.
Next I would remove the hard fuel lines from the motor with a 17mm wrench. Remove your existing rubber fuel lines from the pump as well, also 17mm.
With the belt off, you will be able to remove the injection pump's pulley. I use my pump lock to hold the pulley while I crank off that 19mm nut. With the pulley off, you can then undo the 4 13mm bolts holding the injection pump to the injection pump bracket. 3 on the face where the pulley was, and one on the rear of the pump under where the fuel lines were.
Remove the pump and set it on the radiator support and undo the small flat screw on the back of the pump holding the cold start advance cable in.
DONE, reverse all that crap and put the other pump back in
.
Snug the bolts up holding the pump in but don't tighten them as the pump will need rotating to adjust timing. When putting the pulley back on there is a mark on the outside lip of it that will need to point straight up for the pump to be aligned properly.
From this point on, it is the same as doing the timing belt more or less
.
GET BACK TO US IF THERE IS ANY PROBLEMS!
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#2
by
ORCoaster
on 22 Feb, 2012 12:52
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Good pics my man, But have you pegged for a Mt. Dew drinker not Sprite!
And can you come clean my engine to look that good?
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#3
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 22 Feb, 2012 16:56
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Good pics my man, But have you pegged for a Mt. Dew drinker not Sprite!
And can you come clean my engine to look that good?
i think Jeremy took some of those pics.. and i think he is the sprite drinker.
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#4
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 Feb, 2012 17:01
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]
Good pics my man, But have you pegged for a Mt. Dew drinker not Sprite!
And can you come clean my engine to look that good?
i think Jeremy took some of those pics.. and i think he is the sprite drinker.
First three are mine of the pump I resealed/built for srgtlord.
. Rest are Vince's.
Dale, do assume Mt. Dew because I am a hyper/ADHD type of personality? lol I do not drink energy drinks, just have a hella good outlook on my day. lol why? because I'm high. On life brutha.
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#5
by
RabbitJockey
on 22 Feb, 2012 18:03
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Just be precautious as not to make a catastrophic mistake. Turn the engine over by hand 3-4 times and then once more to be safe after installing everything make sure all the pump bolts are good and tight before you drive it and make sure the belt is tightened properly. U may want to change the crank cam and intermediate shaft seals while ur at it they're not too bad to do. Take your time and double check everything.
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#6
by
ORCoaster
on 22 Feb, 2012 19:36
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Dale, do assume Mt. Dew because I am a hyper/ADHD type of personality?
Well, ahhh yeah, that's it.
Just remember some of us run that way without the carbonation. Is a quart of coffee by 10 AM a bad thing? Really???
Crap, I hate prune juice.
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#7
by
srgtlord
on 22 Feb, 2012 22:10
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Whats wrong with using the cam locking plate? I have never heard of anyone breaking the camshaft when removing the sprocket.
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#8
by
theman53
on 23 Feb, 2012 05:03
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If you use the locking plate to remove and tighten completely the cam sproket nut you can break the slot off. There have been 2 threads very recently of people doing just that. Most times you can still use the cam, but timing it take extra measures and some are always worried about the seal if the broken part will eat away at it.
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#9
by
srgtlord
on 23 Feb, 2012 05:34
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Where can I get the cam holding tool? Ive read its supposedly only $10 but I have only found it for $50.
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#10
by
theman53
on 23 Feb, 2012 05:38
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you can make one if you have access to a drill, 3 bolts, flat stock, and are able to cut the flat stock in 2 pieces.
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#11
by
8v-of-fury
on 23 Feb, 2012 09:51
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Or the large crescent wrench on the cam lobe
I have done it this way over 2 dozen times or more.
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#12
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 23 Feb, 2012 10:38
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IF you shim the cam lockslide tightly - it is a safe proceedure.
I do it that way everytime.
And i use a wide blade putty knife tapped in underneath the lockslide.
Will be doing one today - and will shoot a pic or two.
It also serves to center the cam for the precise timing spec.
If you don't shim it - and just use the lockslide by itself - there is an amount of slack. Any slack allows the cam slot to only contact on 2 corners against the lockslide when force is applied. This will usually cause the damage described that others have had. The cam is cast and brittle iron.
Don't be fooled thinking your lockslide fits like a glove - most all have clearance tolerance for easier working. Install yours and then rotate cam/engine forth and back - and see the variance. When one seems to fit Tight - its usually because the cam is more to one side.
I wouldn't mind having a cam sprocket holder/rotater tool on the cheap tho.
Is there a DIY on making one - or just a thing you do by looking at a real one and going for it best you can ?
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#13
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 23 Feb, 2012 10:44
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Just wanted to add also
basically you're at the mercy of the last person who loosened/tightened the cam sprocket nut. And they "could" have started a fracture/crack in the cam slot doing it carelessly or roughly with just a bare lockslide.
In that scenario - you'd be doomed sooner or later most likely.
Take a good look at any cam slot you work on, beforehand.
I accept no responsibility for your actions.
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#14
by
ORCoaster
on 23 Feb, 2012 17:52
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I use a 3 inch Stanley door hinge for the cam lock it fits so snug I don't ever worry that I am not balanced. Folded in half the match is perfect and it fits flat on the head.