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#15
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Feb, 2012 06:33
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#16
by
8v-of-fury
on 29 Feb, 2012 10:19
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fwiw, albeit an awesome way to do it
..
It will not work so well on the AHU manifold as the EGR valve is integral to the manifold and does not come off like the ALH one does.
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#17
by
BigVWman
on 29 Feb, 2012 12:04
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As for the computer compensating tolerance- it will actually run the car- though not as well as it should even a tooth off on pump in either direction!
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#18
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 29 Feb, 2012 13:04
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Libby, my Internet service is 14.4 kbps. (free)
I can't do youtubes or videos. Unless i want to wait around an hour or 2 or 3 for it to load.
What was it about ? Cleaning of the Intake ?
BigVW is right , this AHU is integral.
Not like the ALH unit that Wolfsburged posted in his thread.
And i know Lib has worked with all of them, so what was the youtube about - bound to be applicable.
I like the block-off plates WolfB had made for his - they might be the same as AHU.
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#19
by
8v-of-fury
on 29 Feb, 2012 13:07
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Ahem, 8v was correct about the integral EGR.
. lol. It was a video of some guy doing an AHU intake though.. so I guess it is possible lol.
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#20
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Feb, 2012 13:08
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It's the 'flame cleaning method'. Use a propane torch to heat the intake up and then blow compressed air in while it all burns off. All the usual disclaimers apply.
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#21
by
8v-of-fury
on 29 Feb, 2012 13:09
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Lots of beer prior to??
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#22
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 29 Feb, 2012 14:36
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Would it help to leave the engine running while i torch the intake ?
Or wait until most of it burns out before cranking it ?
juskiddin
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#23
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Feb, 2012 16:55
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The flame cleaning is done with the intake removed. I've never done it myself, but I've heard of quite a few people using that method and I haven't heard of anyone damaging the intake in the process.
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#24
by
8v-of-fury
on 29 Feb, 2012 17:32
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The flame cleaning is done with the intake removed. I've never done it myself, but I've heard of quite a few people using that method and I haven't heard of anyone damaging the intake in the process.
Yes of course, I guess if one were to give knowledge that the EGR was in fact there.. it could be done with cuation.
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#25
by
dankcorey22
on 03 Mar, 2012 21:15
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Dang it guys, wish I would have seen this sooner, I have vag-com I live in mocksville. Im currently doing a timing belt on a Alh at the moment also
Casio Commando using tap talk
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#26
by
dankcorey22
on 03 Mar, 2012 21:19
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And about the cleaning with map gas and shop air is the absolute bes way to clean a intake, ive done it probably20 times without fail/damage you get rid of bugs also !!
Casio Commando using tap talk
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#27
by
GTiTDi
on 04 Mar, 2012 08:14
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I like the idea of being able to set the timing mechanically, but seems to me like more work than its worth. If the timing is good to begin with, and you have the proper lock tools, you should be able to replace the belt with out messing the timing up. It should at least start and run well enough to get you to a VAG-COM...The actual timing changes with fuel and engine temperature...Setting the Injection Timing - Injector Pump Mechanical Adjustment - A VW specific scan tool such as VAG-COM is required for this procedure. It cannot be done by any other method. The mechanical adjustment technique used for previous generations of VW diesels, which used a mechanical fuel pump without electronic control, is not suitable for the electronically controlled TDI injector pump.
With the engine warmed up and idling, connect the diagnostic tool, and select the engine control module. At this point, one of two different procedures is necessary, depending upon whether you have the proper factory service manual for your particular vehicle.
If you have the factory service manual, select "Measuring Blocks", group 0, then select "Basic Settings". The glow plug indicator lamp will begin flashing at this time (this is normal). Do NOT forget to go into "Basic Settings" because this procedure is completely invalid if measurements are taken outside of "basic settings". Take note of the 2nd and 9th numbers in the display. Locate the chart in the factory service manual which shows the proper relationship between these two numbers. Go across the chart with the 9th number then up the chart with the 2nd number and make sure it is within the shaded area. It has been found through experience that these engines have better cold starting characteristics if the setting is within the upper half of the shaded area. If it is good ... don't do anything further. If the second number is below the recommended range, you need to make a mechanical "advance" adjustment (see below). If the second number is above the recommended range, you need to make a mechanical "retard" adjustment (see below).
If you don't have the factory service manual, select "Measuring Blocks", and go to group 4. Do NOT use "basic settings" for this method. The displays show the requested injection timing, the actual measured injection timing, and the duty cycle of the advance solenoid. At warm idle in neutral, requested timing should be between 0.4 and 2.0 degrees BTDC. If the actual timing is not more than roughly 3.0 degrees BTDC, and the duty cycle of the advance solenoid is not more than 10%, the timing is good ... don't do anything further. If actual timing is more than 3.0 degrees BTDC, you need to make a mechanical "retard" adjustment. If the duty cycle is more than 10%, you need to make a mechanical "advance" adjustment.
If you have an A3 or B4, you need to rotate the body of the injector pump "forward" to retard the timing and "backward" to advance the timing. Stop the engine. Remove the upper timing belt cover. Rotate the engine by hand (shifting trans into 5th gear and pushing the whole car works) such that the two nuts at the rear and bottom of the injector pump flange can be reached through the access holes in the pump pulley. Loosen these two nuts by 1 turn, loosen the bolt at the top front of this flange 1 turn (accessed from outside, not within the pulley). Loosen the bolt located at the opposite end of the pump below the four injector lines. With a 17mm wrench, loosen by 1/2 turn the injector lines on the end of the pump. Now you can rotate the entire pump housing in the required direction (make VERY SMALL adjustments) then tighten and reassemble everything and recheck the timing.
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#28
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 06 Mar, 2012 17:01
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Thanks for the data and tips GTiTDi.
Corey - i might be getting in touch with you soon about some VagCom !
Most of what i have been doing is gathering before/after data and establishing some factoids and baselines that might help me and others who don't have direct or easy access to VagCom.
Believe i'm going to go ahead and put it up to .65 - .70 zone.
I have all the locks and used them as always.
It changed from .62 with slack set tensioner and previous belt - to .43 with new belt and proper set tension.
This was what i was trying to watch for / observe.
Getting it closer to the .70 range now- might save a lot of time when it finally gets plugged into VagCom.
I'll take the reading again after it gets set with V-C.
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#29
by
JessaBug
on 07 Mar, 2012 06:34
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If you get out to Raleigh, we can give you a hand with VAG-COM. We'll be doing the timing on our TDI hopefully this weekend!
