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What is initial injection timing setting on 98 AHU TDI
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 21 Feb, 2012 02:29
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I don't have VagCom, or know anyone locally who does.
Doing my first TDI belt Tuesday or Wednesday.
Have come to find out it might can be verified with dial indicator in same fashion as we do on IDI's - with an upsized adapter, for my IDI adapter. lol
Anyone know the specs ?
Thanks Mucho Grande
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#1
by
maxfax
on 21 Feb, 2012 20:18
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Just did the first one of these (and last) myself on an ALH.. Truth be told I mark and prayed on the pump timing..
Had I thought it though I would have checked where the timing was at for some variety of reference point,
before I removed the belt.. IF you can get a dial indicator jigged up on it you should check and report back with your findings
.. If for nothing else to compare with the specs I posed in Jeremy's thread..
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#2
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 22 Feb, 2012 00:48
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Absolutely will do that Max. That was my hope of intention to get some verification of actual VW spec. And compare/verify the before and after on this Tbelt job.
I made an adapter from Vincents tip in the thread you found - right after i read it. lol
Good to go with it tomorrow.
I'll put some more stuff of that info from that thread in here for future referencers too, in just a while.
Thanks again Man for hunting that down.
Awesome !
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#3
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 22 Feb, 2012 01:02
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This is info posted by The Caveman in November 2009
" Tech bulletin group 23 #97-03 from august 15 1997 mentions that it can be set at .7mm + or - .05 mm.
Problem is that the size of the fitting on the pump isn't the same as an IDI pump. The early pumps [and the tool] have a thread of 8mm with a 1.0 pitch where as the TDI [at least the 1Z passat i was working on ] has a thread of 10 mm with a 1.0 pitch.
I will make a tool adaptor in the future , but at least there is some sort of spec for it. "
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#4
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 22 Feb, 2012 01:11
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In same thread by The Caveman -
Vincent Waldon suggested making an 8mm x 10mm adapter from an old Mk1-Early Mk2 oil/coolant sensor , or an old brake fitting.
So i made one from an old coolant sensor.
Its almost like its in the design for it to be converted into an adapter.
Even inside the bottom its concaved to a point like a ready-made center punching for the drill bit.
I stepped up bits about 6 times from 2mm to 6.5mm then ran a tap through it.
The interior body requires no drilling/boring.
Maybe can't tell from fuzzy pic, but about 85-90% of the piece is threaded by the tap. Only the uppermost part is not tapped with new threads.
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#5
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 22 Feb, 2012 01:17
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Shortly after i made the adapter -
member "410" informed us that the end caps were swappable from an IDI pump to a TDI pump.
So if you have to, or need to, you can swap one in from an IDI pump and use your pre-exisitng 8mm adapter for your IDI dial indicator set-up.
Options are nice, choose your flavor.
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#6
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 22 Feb, 2012 01:49
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1Z and AHU will share same timing specs so which or whether isn't critical to that ..... but here is something else i found that i'd like to determine.
On the data tags for this 98 Jetta TDI - built Nov 97 in Mexaeiouco
its shows engine code as
1Z .... with AMC code tranny.
It may just be some of the bean counters were slow to update the stamping/printing lingo on these, to AHU status.
Or maybe not. idunno
Can't see any stamping in the area where Mk1 and Mk2 block codes are stamped. It doesn't even look to be a machined pad.
Anyone know where to find engine code on these 1Z / AHU engines ?
Any other 98 owners who can share their build date and data tag engine code ?
Thanks for any details or significa
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#7
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 22 Feb, 2012 22:58
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Had to remove more gadgets and stuffs from the engine to get decent access to rear of Inj Pump. Then my block shaped adapter was too wide to fit and thread strait into the timing port hole.
Not enough clearance within the Injection Line bend.
So i reprofiled my adapter block.
Went around to #1 TDC about 5 times just to be certain of the reading.
Got 0.61 - 0.615 each time.My trusty 6mm allen wrench that always worked on A1 A2 crank pulley bolts - doesn't feel like it can handle these. Instead of breaking it - i went to 4 places and finally found a 6mm allen bit socket.
Called it a night.
Last job must have red loctited these bolts or something.
Gonna have at them tomorrow, and heat them some first.
Will check and post the dial gauge specs again after the new belt goes on - when it gets on there. lol maybe tomorrow
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#8
by
BigVWman
on 23 Feb, 2012 22:26
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I have read the dial indicator setting will get you close on pump timing but you should still fine tune with vcds when you get a chance.
On the block code, there have been reports of 1z's in jettas of varying vintage but also some reports of build tag being wrong!The code is roughly the same place as the idi, just look lower on block. Where the idi is right at headgasket level, the tdi is down by the two bolt holes about 1" lower usually a hose in the way you need to nudge to see it good iirc.
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#9
by
G60ING
on 24 Feb, 2012 06:59
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Where is cetane city NC
? Maybe you are close to somebody with a vag-com cable. I'm in the far northeast corner of NC but have a friend with my old DZSL SLC Corrado near Greensboro with a cable. There is also NCdubs.net where I'm certain somebody might be interested in helping out. I'd love to see how the old school method of timing compares to vag-com
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#10
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 24 Feb, 2012 14:51
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LoL - CetaneCity is my little village/hobby shop in outskirt Asheboro.
Finding somebody on NCdubs in GSO area is my hope.
Or go to Tom's place in Kville on a Wed GTG.
Would be great to hook up with the guy you know around GSO.
Especially since he has DZL specific experience.
Thats the kind of person i'm hoping to source.
Got the belt installed last night.
Ran through the dial process again about 5 times for certainty.
Now getting 0.425 - 0.43
Took a lot of stuff out from under the hood for clearer access, and to do some catch up cleaning/detailing by hand.
"Should" have it buttoned back up enough tonight to start it up - Weather Permitting - sketchy weather forecast. I'm working outdoors on this one.
Wind is whooping hard - too windy to have the hood up right now.
If it won't crank up, or runs poorly
i'll manually reset it to 0.70mm
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#11
by
JessaBug
on 25 Feb, 2012 10:04
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There's gotta be someone in the GSO area with a VAG-COM...we probably need a thread started on NCDubs saying who has a VAG-COM and where they are. Might be useful.
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#12
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 25 Feb, 2012 21:13
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I agree Jess, that would be very useful.
But some/most folks with VagCom - might not want to be quite that "useful". lol
Worth a try - what section would you think would be best to post it in ?
Maybe they could specify if they request a service fee or some form of imbursement.
And what type car/engine they have most expertise in.
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#13
by
BigVWman
on 26 Feb, 2012 14:05
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If your close to apex or wake forest when i'm in town, i scan for beer
Even cheap beer, very cheap beer!
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#14
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 29 Feb, 2012 02:01
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Thanks BigVW.
If all else fails closer by - i'll pack some Michelobs and come by.
Got all the stuff back together today.
Car cranks and runs. The 0.43 readings had me concerned if the computer could compensate that much. And anything with this many gizmos always makes me edgy.
Still definitely want to VagCom the timing, and the EGR, and whatever else is simple to verify/correct while its plugged in.
Haven't test driven it yet. Some other things to still do on it first.
But before, it had a lil stronger diesel scent from exhaust than i would expect on a TDI. And its still about the same on that.
Did verify its AHU by timing cover decal - and decal is dated Oct 22 1997 - car body built Nov 97 - so thats all good.
Snow screen dealio in airbox intake port was past due.
Covered it in dishwashing liquid and let that soak a while.
Intake will definitely be coming off after the EGR spec is reset.
