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What is needed to be done to block for a proper rebuild?
by
mtnbob
on 14 Dec, 2010 16:20
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I have my 1.6 td block stripped down. I am ready to take it to a local machine shop to have it checked and probably bored out. What else is needed to do this right? Hot tanking before and after machining? Crank polished and balanced? Bearing journals (?)checked? Rookie who wants to do it right for my daily driver for years to come, but I don't want to go overboard. They will also be checking my head. It looks great, but I want it checked for flatness. Anything else I should be looking at? There are zero cracks between the valves, and it looks great to me, but what do I know
I will have expert assistance later as I need it, but he is very old school and may skip stuff if I take his advice. While I am asking, piston and ring recommendations?
Thanks in advance
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#1
by
rallydiesel
on 14 Dec, 2010 17:09
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#2
by
Dakotakid
on 14 Dec, 2010 17:46
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Really spend some time looking for a machinist who has worked on these diesels for years....even if you have to drive a ways to do so. I am blessed with a local shop who began working on these back in the early 80's and (for me) it is a real "auto-pilot" situation. I don't have to spend inordinate amounts of time breathing down their necks to "do this"...."don't do this" coaching/begging.
Most machine shops will want to cut the bores larger than needed (like for gas engines) and they will evaporate your engine wear-life before you even leave the shop.
If you decide to go with non-premium pistons....go with Goetz or Total Seal or other premium rings. I love Goetz rings because they seat quickly and seem to last (my personal experience, anyway). If it is a TD application....I would really be tempted to go with Kolbenschmidt pistons. Spend a little more now....and less later on.
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#3
by
maxfax
on 14 Dec, 2010 21:38
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Really spend some time looking for a machinist who has worked on these diesels for years....even if you have to drive a ways to do so.
That right there is the most valuable piece of info.. I'm also blessed with a local shop that knows what they're doing, and will flat out tell you when they don't before they try and screw something up..
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#4
by
mtnbob
on 14 Dec, 2010 21:46
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The place that has been mentioned to me specializes in diesels. Not sure about VW's though till I go to see them. That is why I am asking about what I need to ask them when I am there and what I really need to get done. Anything that I can do myself I would prefer to do if possible and practical. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated as usual.
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#5
by
fatmobile
on 14 Dec, 2010 22:03
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Right, my machinist rarely bores an engine.
The difference between a worn cylinder and the next size piston isn't much,
A cutter would skip across much of the surface.
He usually ends up honing it,.. and makes sure to take his time and only leave the 1 thou clearance.
You bought your pistons already right?
You'll need those before they can bore.
Also before they can press new bushings in the rods and size them to the piston pins.
If you are going with ARP rod bolts the big end of the rods might need resized,.. then they need rebalanced.
Thanks for the links to the oil passageway plugs.
I haven't swapped them before but the block I'm working on now has one half way out.
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#6
by
mtnbob
on 15 Dec, 2010 15:57
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No I haven't bought the pistons yet. I didn't know you had to get them first. I figured that I had to first find out if I needed to go oversize or if I could use the original td pistons and put new rings on them. I guess it is possible that it is still within specs, and it could just be honed.
So I need ARP studs, pistons, rings....
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#7
by
theman53
on 15 Dec, 2010 18:50
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I like ARP studs just for the fact of reusability. The strength is nice too.
Check the bores and if it is in spec buy the rings suggested by Dakotakid. If not get your pistons.
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#8
by
mtnbob
on 15 Dec, 2010 21:54
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TY for the input. That's why I asked
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#9
by
maxfax
on 17 Dec, 2010 04:42
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I like ARP studs just for the fact of reusability. The strength is nice too.
Last time I priced rod bolts they said something like $11 a piece (or $88 and tax).. I've been finding ARPs on ebay for a tad under $100 shipped.
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#10
by
theman53
on 17 Dec, 2010 04:50
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I like ARP studs just for the fact of reusability. The strength is nice too.
Last time I priced rod bolts they said something like $11 a piece (or $88 and tax).. I've been finding ARPs on ebay for a tad under $100 shipped.
Yeah, and that 100.00 is reusable. The stock bolts are "supposed" to be 11.00 per torque. They can be reused, I have done it, but it isn't nice everytime you hear a tap from the car and instantly you are thinking rod bolts
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#11
by
maxfax
on 17 Dec, 2010 06:07
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For a run of the mill rebuild for myself I've reused them, and never thought twice about it.. However that's on an engine that I KNOW has not been molested previously.. If it's been apart (or even appears to have been) before I'm introduced to it, I don't take chances..
I have noticed with the info that comes with the ARP bolts that they mention about measuring the length of the bolts when new, and and each time they are torqued and losened.. I suppose that is just good measure with any crucial fastener though..
While I'm on a threadjacking kick (Sorry mtnbob
) I've always been curious as to why is it that the main bearings that have the integral thrust bearing wear the crank? IS is a matter of the clearance not being proper?
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#12
by
rallydiesel
on 17 Dec, 2010 11:20
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Probably has to do with the surface area of the integral thrust bearing is about half that of the separate types.
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#13
by
Vincent Waldon
on 17 Dec, 2010 11:24
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That's the thinking: half the surface area, so double the psi.
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#14
by
mtnbob
on 17 Dec, 2010 17:02
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No problem on the hijack, The more I learn, the better!!