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IDI sitting about 10 years
by
randall_ryan
on 28 Aug, 2010 13:21
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Its been sitting for like 10 years and Im trying to prime the the system, got after the fuel filter but the pump doesn't seem to be doing anything any suggestions?
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#1
by
randall_ryan
on 28 Aug, 2010 15:45
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Ok, its pumping fuel now. But its still not cranking, checked the solenoid on the fuel pump, its got power but the glow plugs aren't getting any, and Im not very knowledgeable about diesel engines but I was under the impression that they aren't even used if its hot outside? Any other ideas about it not cranking would be appreciated too.
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#2
by
Vincent Waldon
on 28 Aug, 2010 16:10
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You'll need glow plugs to get an IDI started if the engine hasn't already been running in pretty much any climate... so I'd suggest getting those sorted first before troubleshooting further.
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#3
by
745 turbogreasel
on 28 Aug, 2010 20:15
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I'm a bit of a hack, so I'd probably unplug the glow controller, and heat the bus bar up with a + jumper cable. 12 seconds, if that doesn't go, wait a few minutes, then try 30 seconds.
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#4
by
fatmobile
on 28 Aug, 2010 20:59
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Ok, its pumping fuel now. But its still not cranking,
I don't understand how it could be pumping but the engine isn't cranking.
Also,.. it's pumping where? Did you crack the injectors? Or have clear fuel lines coming out of the pump?
You are going to have to give better, more precise details of what's going on if you want any real help.
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#5
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 28 Aug, 2010 21:52
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Welcome to the forum Randall.
I'm not too far from Gboro if you need pro help, at amateur cost.
On the firewall (under the hood) there is a small black box with 2 medium sized red wires hooked inside of it. That is the fuse holder for the GlowPlugs. The fuse looks like a thin strip of aluminum.
check that the fuse strip is in place and not melted in two.
check that you are getting 12volts coming in on one of the red wires. If those things check out - but no voltage coming out through the other red wire (that goes to glowplugs buss connector assembly) you may need to take the fuse strip out and clean corrosion from all the connections.
As mentioned by 745 TboGreasal = Using one leg of jumper cables - or - a jumper wire - from battery positive to the glowplug buss connection point will also work for a tempo workaround on firing the Glowplugs.
if its 84 or older - go about 10-12 secs on the Gplugs.
if its 85 or newer - go about 6-8 secs.
if the fuel is 10 years old also, you don't want to use that.
will just make getting it running that much tougher.
if the engine oil is 10 years old, that isnt going to be too good for the engine when it does start.
Cranking and cranking without starting has probably been about the best thing that could have happened after 10 years. The best #1 thing to do for these after sitting an extended period is to prime the oil system before trying to crank/start by pulling the vacuum pump and running the oil pump shaft with a drill or power ratchet.
A lot of cranking without starting has hopefully somewhat primed the oiling system now. But it takes a good number of dry turns before the system is primed. Which isnt ideal - but better than firing right up and running on dry parts.
Good luck, and let me know if you need my help.
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#6
by
randall_ryan
on 29 Aug, 2010 07:46
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Well it looks like I'll be moving my truck to my parents today instead of working on it, apartment management threw a tow warning on it because we aren't supposed to be working on stuff in the parking lot or something. But thanks for the tips, I'm ready to try that jumper idea. As for the wires that run to the glow plugs, Im getting no voltage anywhere, not even before the fuse, which is intact, so I guess I'll clean all the connections. And as far as fuel goes, I changed it to fresh fuel and primed the system with all the injectors cracked, took forever but there is no air in the system, checked the airbox, made sure there wasn't a nest or anything in there, cleaned it up some and threw a new filter in. So I really guess its just those glow plugs thats keeping it from starting. And Baron, as for getting some local help, if the jumper idea doesn't get results I'll be interested cause I wanna get this thing going, plus I wouldn't mind talking to someone that knows a thing or two about em cause this is my first time in a diesel.
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#7
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 29 Aug, 2010 08:30
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Welcome to the forum Randall.
I'm not too far from Gboro if you need pro help, at amateur cost.
On the firewall (under the hood) there is a small black box with 2 medium sized red wires hooked inside of it. That is the fuse holder for the GlowPlugs. The fuse looks like a thin strip of aluminum.
check that the fuse strip is in place and not melted in two.
check that you are getting 12volts coming in on one of the red wires. If those things check out - but no voltage coming out through the other red wire (that goes to glowplugs buss connector assembly) you may need to take the fuse strip out and clean corrosion from all the connections.
As mentioned by 745 TboGreasal = Using one leg of jumper cables - or - a jumper wire - from battery positive to the glowplug buss connection point will also work for a tempo workaround on firing the Glowplugs.
if its 84 or older - go about 10-12 secs on the Gplugs.
if its 85 or newer - go about 6-8 secs.
if the fuel is 10 years old also, you don't want to use that.
will just make getting it running that much tougher.
if the engine oil is 10 years old, that isnt going to be too good for the engine when it does start.
Cranking and cranking without starting has probably been about the best thing that could have happened after 10 years. The best #1 thing to do for these after sitting an extended period is to prime the oil system before trying to crank/start by pulling the vacuum pump and running the oil pump shaft with a drill or power ratchet.
A lot of cranking without starting has hopefully somewhat primed the oiling system now. But it takes a good number of dry turns before the system is primed. Which isnt ideal - but better than firing right up and running on dry parts.
Good luck, and let me know if you need my help.
i thought they switched to fast plugs in 83? i know they had fast glows in 84. cause my car has 8 second plugs.
old cars had 16 second glows, newer ones had 8 second glows. doesnt mean thats how long you have to burn them tho. i often burn my plugs for about 4 seconds if its not stone cold.
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#8
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 29 Aug, 2010 12:01
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RoR, i guess any of them can have anything by now really.
Bill & Jess's 84 TDGL had Slow - IiRC
I've always thought 84 - 85 were the transitions.
Never know for sure until you hear them click off i guess.
But if Randall has a Truck, its 80-83 and probably came with Slow. And also could be converted to Fast as well - or who knows - it could have Slow relay and Fast plugs or vice versa. lol
It gets messy in that department sometimes.
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#9
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 29 Aug, 2010 12:14
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Randall, could be the underdash relay for the Gplugs is bad - since you got nothing at the red wire going into the Gplug fuse. Sometimes pulling the relay out and in a couple times will get its connections jiving again. Worth trying. Its right above the regular fuse box.
Like you might have found out - the yellow dash cluster light is just a signal to the driver. Its not a defacto indicator that they work.
In any case, for now, firing them off with one leg of some jumper cables is the way to go. But no guarantee all or any of them will still be good/working. With any luck, at least 2 or 3 will be good. And that would get it to hit well enough to start - just a lil rough at first.
Apartment and Townhouse communities are just that way.
And its usually a short notice, when given.
What year model is your Truck ?
I have an 81 and a 82.
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#10
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 29 Aug, 2010 12:18
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Oh yeh, if its a factory Diesel machine - there will be a pull knob on the dash next to the radio. That is the "cold start" knob.
Pull it out (if it will) before trying to start it next time.
It advances the fuel timing just a little to assist in cold starts.
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#11
by
745 turbogreasel
on 29 Aug, 2010 12:19
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Rope tow a few blocks in 3rd, it will probably start.
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#12
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Aug, 2010 17:15
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I agree. Since you have to move it anyway try the tow start. If it fires up then the drive to the rents house would be easier to do.
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#13
by
randall_ryan
on 30 Aug, 2010 18:32
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It's a 81 factory diesel. Pull started it, and she cranked up within 2 minutes of towing. Im guessing it is the relay too, I'm gonna go ahead and add one to an order from germanautoparts but I'll give the whole taking it out a couple times trick and see if I have any luck. New radiator, timing belt kit, glow plugs, water pump, v-belt, coolant hoses and a fresh factory 4speed shift knob to replace the hurse knob on it now coming in tomorrow, Thanks for everyone's help! Oh and Baron, know of anywhere around Greensboro that offers competitive pricing on paint that isn't Maaco cause she's in bad need of some de-rustification.
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#14
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 30 Aug, 2010 20:51
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... know of anywhere around Greensboro that offers competitive pricing on paint that isn't Maaco cause she's in bad need of some de-rustification.
Only competive priced place i know of and could recommend is Econo-Body on Bessemer Ave. Mark Covell is an old Pontiac friend of mine and runs the place (i guess he still does).
Next step up (better paint - better work - moderately priced) is Sandlin Body off of Hicone Road. Ryan Elliot runs the place. Does things right if you want it right. Might be willing to cut some corners for you too. And he works on a lot of older stuff - and full restorations - which some won't even touch.
I'm lifelong paint and body, and high skilled mechanic.
But never been into doing any quickies or in-between'ish type repaints for anyone. And thats all a lot of folks really need.
I'm just not the man for that is all.
A lot of the in-between'ish mexican and negro shops have gone under because the price of materials has gotten so high. Maaco and Econo are about the only ones who can paint a car cheap anymore.
You can't even do it yourself cheap, unless you use air dry Oil Base enamel from Guilford Builders.
