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New Giles 1.6 NA pump. What next?
by
overdrivegear
on 20 May, 2010 05:32
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I just installed my new Giles pump on my 1.6 NA cabriolet. I timed it to 0.0405" (1.03 mm). Is that too much advance for one of these super-duper Giles gizmos? I wasn't sure if the magic he works on these things necessitates a different timing scheme. The car ran ok but it did seem like there was a fair amount of ping due to the high advance, but maybe that was because the car wasn't up to operating temp. So anyways, you Giles pump veterans feel free to give me some feedback.
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#1
by
theman53
on 20 May, 2010 05:37
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I think Giles told me to start at either .85 or .95 and go from there. He builds alot of advance into the pump so they don't need the static timing IIRC.
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#2
by
Vincent Waldon
on 20 May, 2010 06:48
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I think Giles told me to start at either .85 or .95 and go from there. He builds alot of advance into the pump so they don't need the static timing IIRC.
Yup...*lots* of dynamic advance.
I think Giles would tell you 0.95 is the right static starting spot... but you can certainly confirm directly with him for your specific pump.
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#3
by
overdrivegear
on 20 May, 2010 11:44
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I just called and he said that 0.95 should be the ceiling. 0.85-0.95mm is the range, so I'll put it in the middle of the road at 0.90mm
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#4
by
jseeley
on 20 May, 2010 13:07
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Giles told me .95 for my 1.6NA which is also the factory spec for my 85 Golf (+ or - 0.02 according to the Bentley)
I'm at 0.97
What's next for me is a dual down-pipe and larger exhaust... I'm thinking 2.25. Suggestions? Muffler recommendations? Should I run a resonator? I don't want to be loud... But I'd like to get the most out of the little 1.6 as I can...
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#5
by
RabbitJockey
on 20 May, 2010 19:20
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get a better intake, and if you run a bigger exhaust i highly recommend a resonator and muffler. and i would say do go too big on the pipe. i had a 2.25 tt exhaust on my na jetta and it was loud. all my friends new when i was coming though cause it was such a unique sound haha until i did my turbo swap then it sounded much more peaceful.
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#6
by
burn_your_money
on 20 May, 2010 19:25
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I usually like them around 0.90. I find they are quite a bit quieter. I also rebuild my injectors to the bottom of the specs rather then the top.
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#7
by
jseeley
on 20 May, 2010 21:17
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get a better intake, and if you run a bigger exhaust i highly recommend a resonator and muffler. and i would say do go too big on the pipe. i had a 2.25 tt exhaust on my na jetta and it was loud. all my friends new when i was coming though cause it was such a unique sound haha until i did my turbo swap then it sounded much more peaceful.
Is there much to gain removing the stock airbox? Seems like a fairly good design in the Mk2 going into the passenger wheel well-
(tubing is 2.25" from the wheel well to the filter box)
How about muffler choice? I hear a "turbo" muffler is good for an NA diesel as it won't cause any back pressure, but I'm sure the experts on here probably have some good advice... sounds like I will want to run resonator.... is there one in there stock? I didn't notice one. As it is now the engine is louder than the stock exhaust.
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#8
by
ToddA1
on 22 May, 2010 18:27
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get a better intake, and if you run a bigger exhaust i highly recommend a resonator and muffler. and i would say do go too big on the pipe. i had a 2.25 tt exhaust on my na jetta and it was loud. all my friends new when i was coming though cause it was such a unique sound haha until i did my turbo swap then it sounded much more peaceful.
Was that a typo... "do go too big on the pipe"? Should that have been "
don't"?
Were you running a resonator on the Jetta?
-Todd
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#9
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 May, 2010 19:25
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its the quality of the pipe that makes or breaks it. A thin walled pipe will resonate A LOT of the sound out to its surroundings, being the tunnel under your car, and you'll hear more of the exhaust note. A thick walled pipe does a ton better at keeping the noise inside and out the back of the car where they belong.
I have a very good piece of information for anyone looking to upgrade an N/A exhaust. A new manifold is NOT I repeat not needed. If you take the down pipe off and take a look at this design, its genius, and perfect from the factory. The runners are all perfect size and perfect length for the engine they are on. Germans are smart remember. Also take a look at the opening of the exhaust Mani, its easily 2.25" if not 2.5". The down pipe and the exhaust are the restrictive parts of the system. The toilet bowl/flex joint is a very tried-tested-and-true design, cutting it out and going 2" or 2.25" from there back to a resonator and then to a good brand name "Free Flowing" muffler will produce, not only killer performance, a very good sound, for reasonably cheap and easy.
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#10
by
overdrivegear
on 25 May, 2010 06:06
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Well, I got the pump timed to 0.90mm and it ran poorly. Fair amount of emission, stutter at high rpm, and rough idle. I had to pull the cold start advance just to get it to idle smoothly. I think I'm going to move the timing up to 0.95mm and see how that is. Question: how much advance (in millimeters) does the cold start advance place from pushed all the way in to pulled all the way out. I'm guessing is somewhere around 0.10 mm but that's just a guess.
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#11
by
arb
on 25 May, 2010 14:00
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Well, I got the pump timed to 0.90mm and it ran poorly. Fair amount of emission, stutter at high rpm, and rough idle. I had to pull the cold start advance just to get it to idle smoothly. I think I'm going to move the timing up to 0.95mm and see how that is. Question: how much advance (in millimeters) does the cold start advance place from pushed all the way in to pulled all the way out. I'm guessing is somewhere around 0.10 mm but that's just a guess.
I set mine to 0.95mm and never use the cold start - even in Michigan winters.
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#12
by
burn_your_money
on 25 May, 2010 19:55
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The effect of the cold start advance has a lot to do with the specifics of the pump. Next time you are timing it give it a pull and see what happens. I seem to recall 0.25mm on mine. If you do pull the cold start out while timing, do a complete rotation of the pump in the direction of rotation. Failure to do this may result in the advance piston not returning to it's rest position which would give false timing values.
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#13
by
subsonic
on 26 May, 2010 07:20
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I also rebuild my injectors to the bottom of the specs rather then the top.
pop pressure?
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#14
by
burn_your_money
on 26 May, 2010 09:22
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I also rebuild my injectors to the bottom of the specs rather then the top.
pop pressure?
Yes