Haha. Dunno where the crap is going. Lol not entirely worried about it either.
The bore is identical to every other bosch head ive seen (75+??) and shows no sign of being enlarged. The first plunger that got chewed was the original Land Rover one. The second from a vw pump And the third also from vw. But that doesnt mean anything as it is a bosch part and all three were the same in everyway to one another.
Well so far so good. The plunger has not been chewed off yet, fingers crossed.
It must have been a solenoid issue. Life experience gained next time I'll replace the whole thing and not just the plunger lol.
ALSO on a side note.. I am going to get pneumonia this winter. It was -5C out Friday morning and on my 80 km/h drive for 40 minutes had my car barely sustaining 160F whilst cruising... Christ
Time to block the radiator and save all that engine heat that is just dumping out the bottom. And a new thermostat.
A problem that's easily solved.... I know I post this picture alot, I really entertain myselff
Ahh, the solution to not having those 5 MPH crash bumpers. Reminds me of the 50's and 60's cars with the massive bumpers with the tits on them. Must have been an engineer with a fetish that designed them and a CEO of the same mind that let them through the QA QC process.
Oh, they didn't bother in them days about the PC stuff now did they?
TADAH I found one.
http://images.craigslist.org/3k93Lb3Ha5Ia5L15Eecbqa4f85631451a174a.jpg
Jeremy, I can't believe that you're still not getting any heat. Especially since you flushed out your heater core, checked the thermostat and powered up those coolant glowplugs.
Who was it that was going to ceramic coat all their engine parts to keep the heat in the cylinder? I think when you figure your problem out you will have found that same solution. Time for heated seats. Leave the engine alone. They do better cold.
Do you have all the foam around the blower motor and the heater core? Are your dash vents blocked off?
The air is not escaping in to the cabin via that side port, it is foam sealed. The side cold air vents seal perfectly, and their respective tubes and joints also do not leak. As far as I know all air is passing through the heater core, both of the two tubes that go through the fire-wall are close enough to the same temp. And that is about the same temp as the front coolant neck as well.
I have not had the heater core out, but two winters ago when it was a 1.7 EN it had glass melting heat.
Thermostat works as it should. It is a 180F thermo and you can see it open
I have a mechanical coolant gauge, and WHEN it gets to operating temp it will sit at 180F all day.. Unless I am hauling ass up a hill.. I could push ~220f in the summer.
JEAN, I want to wire up the glow plugs in the coolant neck.. but I cannot get a stable idle to do so. Alternator load takes the idle down so that it either hunts hard for an idle, or chugs like 400rpm. (Never dies though)
The air is not escaping in to the cabin via that side port, it is foam sealed. The side cold air vents seal perfectly, and their respective tubes and joints also do not leak. As far as I know all air is passing through the heater core, both of the two tubes that go through the fire-wall are close enough to the same temp. And that is about the same temp as the front coolant neck as well.
I have not had the heater core out, but two winters ago when it was a 1.7 EN it had glass melting heat.
Thermostat works as it should. It is a 180F thermo and you can see it open I have a mechanical coolant gauge, and WHEN it gets to operating temp it will sit at 180F all day.. Unless I am hauling ass up a hill.. I could push ~220f in the summer.
JEAN, I want to wire up the glow plugs in the coolant neck.. but I cannot get a stable idle to do so. Alternator load takes the idle down so that it either hunts hard for an idle, or chugs like 400rpm. (Never dies though)
Have you tried backing out the max fuel screw a full turn or two and then readjusting the idle? I would also go to a 195 thermostat.
I believe I read that you deleted the egr and cooler. From what I have read these two help quite a bit with the initial warm up.
The egr dumps warm/hot air into the intake, and the egr cooler transfers heat to the coolant.
I have an 03 alh that I just deleted the egr on and it takes about 5-6 miles to reach operating temp and its not even below 30 degrees yet.
Here's a link where Malone explains it a little better.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=305248
Have you tried backing out the max fuel screw a full turn or two and then readjusting the idle? I would also go to a 195 thermostat.
I have tried backing out the max fuel and turning in the idle set screw.. but I do not think I went two turns out, so I will try that tomorrow. The 195* stat will only help me if I can get the engine up to 195F lmao. I think I might take a stab and borrow my mothers sewing machine and go buy some black leather.. make a full frontal bra for it. lol Also have been looking in to easy ways to make a belly pan. It looks like it would be fairly simple with a very thin sheet metal.. cuts, bends and moulds would be a cake walk. Purely to direct air, not as a skid plate
. ALSO! I have a hood blanket from my old diesel parts car I am going to install.
I believe I read that you deleted the egr and cooler. From what I have read these two help quite a bit with the initial warm up.
The egr dumps warm/hot air into the intake, and the egr cooler transfers heat to the coolant.
Here's a link where Malone explains it a little better.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=305248
I did just very recently dump the EGR.. but only because it broke. The mounting screws backed out so it was swinging loose I guess and eventually stress cracked the accordion pipes. It didn't help make any substantially noticeable heat from what I remember last year when I did the swap in early February. Might just need to get a grid heater setup like the Cummins, amazing what just heating the intake air does though eh? Reading Malone's I had no idea it played that big a part in everything.. Crap now I am pissed it broke.
Reading Malone's I had no idea it played that big a part in everything.. Crap now I am pissed it broke.
I wish I had read that as well before I deleted my egr, but I'm going to reinstall mine as I plan to get a tune from him along with the dynamic egr.
Since you went m-tdi would you even have any egr function?
Since you went m-tdi would you even have any egr function?
You raise a good point, may not have been any actual exhaust gas going through to the intake.. but the cooler was still attached the manifold that sees 1000* ? lol
Wouldn't having the 195 deg thermostats alow the motor to heat to 195 deg befor allowing water to cool?
And isn't the major advantage of removing the egr the you don't get sout build up in the intake and keep the motor cleaner by not burning spent fuel?