water pump - page 1 - Troubleshooting - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• water pump by rabbitman on 27 Nov, 2007 15:02
• I put a new water pump on and for some reason the impeller is different on the new one. It's not cast and it's not as high like the clearance will be way to much inside. I put it on anyways but haven't tested it. Anybody know whats up?
• #1 by cyrus #1 on 27 Nov, 2007 18:33
• Is it the stamped metal style?  I had to replace the water pump on my gasser a while ago.  I'm now running a stamped one and it works just fine.  It's an aftermarket unit so I'm assuming it's just a different design to cut manufacturing costs.  Only time will tell how it stands up to use.
• #2 by rabbitman on 28 Nov, 2007 12:53
• yeah, it's a stamped one, I thought the impeller was supposed to be a close fit but I guess not.
• #3 by rabbitman on 30 Nov, 2007 14:13
• So I put my new water pump on and I doesn't pump! It has to much clearance at the impeller.
• #4 by burn_your_money on 30 Nov, 2007 14:21
• I hope the one I just bought isn't like that :evil:
• #5 by jtanguay on 30 Nov, 2007 15:33
• Quote from: "rabbitman"

  So I put my new water pump on and I doesn't pump! It has to much clearance at the impeller.

  
  
  did you bleed out all the air?  that totally sucks man... especially since it's not just a simple little job (assuming you have a/c etc...)
• #6 by rabbitman on 30 Nov, 2007 16:09
• No, I don't have AC, but I'm still really sick of working on this. I took the water pump off twice because it leaked, the first time I already had the belt on. only I don't know about bleeding the air. I've drained out the coolant a few times and when I fill it up and run it there's little spurts of air out the hose that goes into the top of the coolant tank and then it's good to go, this time not even a drop came out :evil: I'm gonna run it till it's warm and see if it desides to pump or not. If it won't I'll take the whole pump off so I can leave the t-belt alone.
  
  A little hint,
  Going by my pump it has to be a cast impeller, not a stupid stamped one. Look up www.autopartswarehouse.com and look at the rabbit water pumps, Geba makes a cast one, I have a GMB one. They have 7 brands and Geba looked like the only good one. Maybe the pump body has to be made for either a cast or a stamped one.
  Does dynamite remove water pumps? :cry: thanks
• #7 by rabbitman on 30 Nov, 2007 17:56
• Hi, Well I guess I just didn't rev it enough 'cause I revved it and the water started pumping, the heater is still a joke though. I think it's pumping slower than normal but I'll see over the next few day.  thanks!
  
  PS. I would still suggest using a cast impeller even though the stamped one does work.
• #8 by Zulfiqar on 03 Dec, 2007 11:15
• the impeller with a flat base reduces cavitation - while a fan open type one does not do such a good job. Get any pump with a flat based impeller - which is likely it will casted not stamped
• #9 by Fisher on 03 Dec, 2007 12:49
• I've used this Stamped Steel Impeller Pump on many occasions and have never had a problem.
  
  I asked Jack at on the other forum and he said it works fine and maybe even pumps a little better.
• #10 by rabbitman on 03 Dec, 2007 13:16
• hi, the problem now is that my rabbit runs hotter than it used to but the heater is colder. So that makes me think the water pump isn't pumping enough. There is still a stream of water shooting into the coolant tank so it is pumping some. thanks
• #11 by burn_your_money on 03 Dec, 2007 14:45
• or the waterpump is pumping so well it pumped all sorts of crap into your heatercore and possibly your rad as well. Did you do a reverse flush?
• #12 by rabbitman on 03 Dec, 2007 19:45
• no, I never did any kind of flush. I just got done changing the heater core and I still have to test it out. It's -10F now so that'll be a good test.
  The other thing is that my radiator was new a year ago and so was the heater core so there probably wasn't to much gunk in the system. Oh well, I'll know tonight. thanks!
• #13 by jtanguay on 03 Dec, 2007 20:56
• you should probably do a heater flush.  go buy that prestone super flush stuff from walmart (like $4-5 bucks??) and flush that crap out good.  run it for about 20-30 mins and then drain.. you should see brown fluid coming out if you haven't done it in a long long time.
  
  after i flushed mine & new t-stat, my heater works so damn good.  i put all domestic cars to shame!     sauna anyone???  :lol:  i used to think that i would need cardboard in front of the rad to create any sort of heat... but i was wrong.  it's all to do with cooling system & t-stat.
  
  did you use distilled water?  distilled water is the 'wettest' water (unless you use something like redline water wetter which increases the wetness) which will increase efficiency and heater output.
  
  did you fill the rad with coolant or just the bottle?  fill it as it is running, and make sure it gets up to temperature with the coolant cap off for around a minute.  use a thermometer if you need to.  if you do this, it should bleed all air out of the system.  
  
  first time i filled mine after the flush i only filled the bottle, then i had some serious air locks... overheating issues etc.  opened the bottle and let her run for a bit after she got up to temp.  no more issues there... but then i had put in a t-stat that opened at around 95-98C so... yea overheat city in the summer  :lol:
  
  good luck fixin the problem
• #14 by burn_your_money on 04 Dec, 2007 05:19
• Do not drain the coolant while the engine is hot. Also don't add cold coolant to a hot engine. You'll warp or crack stuff pretty easily.