VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Smokey Eddy on May 16, 2010, 12:58:26 am
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The reason why ...
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06497.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06494.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06492.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06490.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06489.jpg)
So here we go...
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06483.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06484.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06485.jpg)
I want to make a better intake but this will have to do...
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06486.jpg)
I figured if everything had 4 coats of gloss high temp black paint on it, it would be easier to clean.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06487.jpg)
Draining the oil out of the intercooler...
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06488.jpg)
And a really good tip i like to use from now on ...
SANDWICH BAGS!!!
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06495.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06496.jpg)
SO CHEAP SO EASY SO USEFUL SO TIDY!
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Holy ouch!!!!
Looks nice. I did the same thing with sandwich bags. Saved a lot of headache for sure.
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you should have went pink ;D
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I will have black or blue 1.9 aaz coolant hoses in three weeks if your looking for a set ( 3 )
GB
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subscribed
good luck....
:)
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Sweet!! Can't wait to see it all together again! Remind me what your car looks like again. In fact I don't think I've ever seen a picture of your car, just carnage.
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Thanks fellas. If anyone can advise me on my transmission thread (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25621.0) I'd really appreciate it. - Looking for a thread someone has on changing seals, bushings & bearings
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Zagarus,
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05794.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05796.jpg)
I have since added the FMIC, chrome exhaust tips, door handles, a bumpin sound system and lowered it. I need to find low pro's now.
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Thanks fellas. If anyone can advise me on my transmission thread (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25621.0) I'd really appreciate it.
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EDNA That head looks tits ;)
I am very proud of this lol. this things gonna be AWESOME.
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Digging the black ;) The other thing that I have always wanted to know is what will be better. Of course your clutch didn't hold out on the 1.6, but you should be able to get a feel if the 1.6/1.9 combo was more fun than a straight 1.9 setup.
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Well lets see what is gonna change here Lucas, and we can use our 'brainpower' to predict the outcome. lol
Bigger displacement, which is caused by just a longer stroke? or is it in unison with a bigger bore as well? This should increase power and torque levels with reduction in how quick it will attain rpm's. Once spinning the added rotating mass should also give higher torque numbers up top in the power band shouldn't it? Passing Power :P
I think it will be an upgrade but only time and Burn-out videos will tell lol
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Yeah, but I have been in the garage building circle track engines before where on paper it looks like you are really going to have something. Then you put the new 434 small block in and it is the biggest sled ever and you wish that you had the old 415 back.
This is a little different, because it is almost the same block to block, but it could still not be as fun to drive. Our 434 probably had more HP than the 415, but it didn't wind up like the 415 did. It seemed to have all its power on top. This diesel should be the exact opposite of that...
Bottom line is I would like to see what Edna says about it when done. If he changes no fuel settings and what not which one will he think is better. Obviously if he has a new clutch and can boost more without burning the clutch up the 1.9 should have it. Time will tell.
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The 1.6/1.9 has WAY more get up and go than my 2000 tdi...
it was a LOT more fun to drive but them again 2000 golf is heavier...
it is good that it's the same head, car, turbo, IP EVERYTHING.
same intercooler... i wonder what the weight increase will be.
the 1.9/1.6 definitely reved up fast. once the tires started to spin it went crazy.
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we should put our cars in great canadian this year.
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Weight increase between the two engines shouldn't be that much more.. Can't be more then 75lbs.. It may handle a little heavier upfront with that much extra though.
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1.9 > 1.6.
^^ Mathematical proof :D
I'm pretty interested to see the findings!
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no fluids in a 1.9 comes in at 256 lbs according to a shipping company http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=190201 (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=190201)
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That must be a complete engine though. or at LEAST tall block...
the block of the 1.9 is very marginally taller... it can't be much more
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i wish SO badly that i could have dyno'd the 1.9/1.6...
Im sure it was a much faster car than my heavier 2-dr 2000 TDI ALH golf.
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On the scales all packed up a 1.9 block with all the guts weighs right around 160 lbs.
As I recall last time I had a 1.6 block all packed up it was 150 pounds.
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what in the hole?
what happened to this thing?
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what in the hole?
what happened to this thing?
I think i understand what you're saying.
One of the connecting rods came free of the crank and the rod was pushed through the side of the cylinder block.
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On the scales all packed up a 1.9 block with all the guts weighs right around 160 lbs.
As I recall last time I had a 1.6 block all packed up it was 150 pounds.
yeah so +10 pounds which isn't a lot. that's all probably piston head & counter weight too.
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what in the hole?
what happened to this thing?
I think i understand what you're saying.
One of the connecting rods came free of the crank and the rod was pushed through the side of the cylinder block.
sorry, i was feeling a bit punny earlier.
i can't imagine the noises this kind of thing would make whilst happening.
look forward to your progress!
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It was surprisingly quiet. most of the noise was the bits hitting the underneath of the car. the engine still idled fine on 3 cylinders but this was all already in a thread that has come and gone.
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These things are supposed to handle an unreal amount of torque...
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My Magnetic sensor. Hopefully this will drive the tach i have. (special Thanks to RadoTD)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06816.jpg)
My Clutch came with one of these and so did my transmission rebuild package (special thanks to VinceWaldon)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06815.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06814.jpg)
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My second grouping of parts. This time more transmission related.
Except for the timing belt, tensioner, magnet sensor & water pump with T-stat.
It's an 80C t-stat because i've heard of over heating issues with the aaz. I also anticipate this summer to be a scorcher along with at least 1 trip through the rockies. I have a winter 87C t-stat and now a summer 80C t-stat. :)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06813.jpg)
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Eddy quit flashing your clutch. ;D Is it wrong to say I had it in my hands?
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;)
Isn't it sexy. It's surprisingly small. i was shocked at how tiny it actually is. It's about the size of a dinner plate.
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;)
Isn't it sexy. It's surprisingly small. i was shocked at how tiny it actually is. It's about the size of a dinner plate.
yea, but it is well made, and IMO worth the wait
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SExyness ;)
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so upon pulling the old block out i've found a tooth missing on the flywheel. My friend said i have to get it machined for the new clutch anyways and that i should find one at a wrecker but the amount of work to pull the block out of the tranny and the likely hood of finding one is so low.
so i guess i'll get a new one?
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mine is just missing a tooth.. do you think that's a big deal? it only has to do with starting... and i never noticed an issue.
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you've probably just always been lucky enough that portion never came around while starting.. lmao
However, if it is only one tooth.. it couldn't be too much a problem
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The cheap guy in me would just weld it back on and grind it down. :D
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the tooth? the tooth is missing...
i think i'll remove a tooth on the opposite side for balancing.
There is no marring on the starter at all. and for the hundreds of times it's started the starter must have passed the missing tooth.
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my oil cooler sandwich plate thing!
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06825.jpg)
Just look at the blue-ing on that pressure plate. It's not hard to tell it had slipped a few times at high speed.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06826.jpg)
There is almost no friction material left on this clutch. its alllmosttt metal on metal
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06827.jpg)
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the tooth? the tooth is missing...
i think i'll remove a tooth on the opposite side for balancing.
There is no marring on the starter at all. and for the hundreds of times it's started the starter must have passed the missing tooth.
Look at my thread dude LOL. The floor was gone. I would wire weld a glob on there and grind a "new" tooth into shape.
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so upon pulling the old block out i've found a tooth missing on the flywheel. My friend said i have to get it machined for the new clutch anyways and that i should find one at a wrecker but the amount of work to pull the block out of the tranny and the likely hood of finding one is so low.
so i guess i'll get a new one?
Is the tooth broken off all the way through, or just chipped on the starter side? I have heated the starter ring gear, removed, and flipped so the good side faces the starter. If you have another trashed flywheel with a good starter ring gear you could just swap the ring gears. Maybe even buy a new ring gear as a last resort.
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so upon pulling the old block out i've found a tooth missing on the flywheel. My friend said i have to get it machined for the new clutch anyways and that i should find one at a wrecker but the amount of work to pull the block out of the tranny and the likely hood of finding one is so low.
so i guess i'll get a new one?
Is the tooth broken off all the way through, or just chipped on the starter side? I have heated the starter ring gear, removed, and flipped so the good side faces the starter. If you have another trashed flywheel with a good starter ring gear you could just swap the ring gears. Maybe even buy a new ring gear as a last resort.
The tooth is totally missing. But i never noticed anything ever when starting ... the only concern is balancing...
i guess when i take it to get resurfaced i'll see what they say. i'm going to europe for 2 weeks so i'll be idle for the next 18 days.
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bring me back a sacher torte
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bring me back a sacher torte
if my ... very limited foreign language knowledge serves me well... is that not a chocolate cake or pastry or something?
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yessir, it is a rare treat. For some reason they never taste quite the same as they do in Europe.
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I think its just going to be England & Spain. No germany. =P
My family lives in England. Maybe i'll bring back a V6 tdi ;) with 24 valves
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then let me know how much a 1# bag of army and navy boiled sweets are and I'll paypal you the $$. Can't get em here for love nor money.
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*writes down* ...1 bag... army navy boiled sweets - gord
k
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thanks man, I'm hitting a junk yard on the weekend, I'll look for a good flywheel for ya.
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So my AAZ is ready to be dropped into the car.
pics or it never happened?
oh and Macka, i didn't have room in my back pack for the sweets :( but i can have some mailed to you direct from my cousin, friend or aunt. =P
its easier to ship food than it is to bring on a passenger plane.
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pics or it never happened?
You said it!
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(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06829.jpg)
When you have the block upside down and the oil pump sticking out of this thing it actually looks pretty cool.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06830.jpg)
I cleaned the pistons up with a sanding flap wheel on my dremel. I also didn't break any rings this time!!!
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06831.jpg)
I had the crank hot tanked.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06834.jpg)
This is supposed to be the crank nose after it was "fixed" but it didn't look any different at all for $40...
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06833.jpg)
I was happy to still see the stone marks after i honed the cylinders. there is no lip at all... Tyler, do you know how many km is on this bore?
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06909.jpg)
All nice and black. but where is the turbo?! :O
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06910.jpg)
1 Piece at a time. The cam and IP gears unfortunately got some surface rust in their down time. The faces are painted though. See the oil cooler sandwich plate? ;)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06841.jpg)
These are just for "good measure". $180 for the pair brand new in the box i couldn't say no.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06835.jpg)
This wasn't the finished product. I ended up porting them quite a bit more to match the size of the ports in the head which i also enlarged. I really wanted to get a shot of the ports on the head which i was really happy with. i didn't quite get a mirror finish on the exhaust ports but all of the ports are MUCH larger than before. I gasket matched them based on the grime stains where the gasets were not covering. But more so i carried the width of the opening down close to the valve and i smoothed out and widened where the ports make that 90 degree turn down to the valves.
I then lapped all the valves very vigorously with my drill and a piece of fuel line and replaced 1 valve that got bent.
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working on this now ...
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06912.jpg)
Will my propane torch be hot enough to heat the bolts in the hot side of the turbo to get them out?
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We need a thumbs up smiley on this forum!
You know you're taking me for a ride once it's alive, right?
:)
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I certainly hope so!!
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If you take the wastegate apart I would love to see what is inside it. I am really worried I killed mine. Great job and good luck.
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I want to make that DIY pressure regulator thing that goes in the pressure line from the cold compressor housing to the waste gate. I want my waste gate to start to open at 20psi and be wide open by 22psi.
I also know that the dust cover is missing in my photos and yes, that crank nose did slip but that's supposed to be "fixed" from the machine shop. the gear still wiggles slightly on it though.
Never the less, im not going to be running a serpentine belt so i shouldn't have the same issues that most AAZ have with their pulleys & crank gear.
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I hate to say it but I'd be worried about the crank nose. It should basically be an interference fit. It looks like they just cut the notch on top of the old keyway which is not a good idea. It's best to do it 180 out. You are using the TDI gear right?
I have no idea how many kms are on the block. I don't even remember who I bought it off of so I can't ask them.
Your exhaust manifold is going to stink when that paint burns off
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Well the paint is supposed to be rated for 1200F...
and i agree. I was not impressed with the machine shop job. I got it done through a friend for $40 too so i can only blame my self... I thought they were going to shave the nose down and cut into the nose of the shaft to extend the key how ever much they shaved off the crank nose.
And no, im not using a TDI gear. I'm using an "almost" brand new half key gear. (like on the AAZ and 1.6's)
The plan is going to be to use a new bolt and cover the entire bolt with permanent locktite.
I can't really afford all new bottom end bolts to have it machined. New valves are cheaper at $10 a valve than those dang bolts anyways.
I spoke with a VW tech guy last week and he said if i wasn't running a serp belt it shouldn't be a big deal. He said the 1.6's rarely if ever slip. Something to do with vibrations.
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Well let's hope you never have to take it apart.
I was thinking of switching to a serpentine setup but I think I'll keep my v-belts. I don't find them that troublesome.
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Yes, the V-belts aren't that big of a deal so long as the pulleys are not wrecked and they are under the correct tension.
i blamed the V-belt design for ages until i got a tensioner that worked.
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(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06948.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06949.jpg)
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(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06951.jpg)
The going got tough! not really, im just lazy. But hey, three dubs in 1 picture! RadoTD's corrado is behind the white golf.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06952.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06954.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06955.jpg)
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Looks sweet man, I can't wait to see it running
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If you don't have a good D.I.Y for the boost pressure controll or Manula Boost Controller let me know. I just made my own for about 15 bucks and it work amazing, opens up right at 15 psi and it could easily open at any boost level. I can take some pictures and show you how I did it if you want.
Will.
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I can take some pictures and show you how I did it if you want.
Will.
I'd like to see that, please :)
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I can take some pictures and show you how I did it if you want.
Will.
I'd like to see that, please :)
+1
I the wastegate on my K14 is so finicky, I've given up for now
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looks like it's coming together quite nicely! 8)
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Ill take pictures tomorrow and post them up here for you guys.
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If you don't have a good D.I.Y for the boost pressure controll or Manula Boost Controller let me know. I just made my own for about 15 bucks and it work amazing, opens up right at 15 psi and it could easily open at any boost level. I can take some pictures and show you how I did it if you want.
Will.
this is very kind of you! However, i do not want to waste boost that's already being produced and allow the turbo to over spool with lots of fueling. I NEED to run a working adjustable waste gate.
Unless... what you're talking about IS related to a waste gate and doesn't just blow off boost pressure like a blow off valve...
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Are you done yet? :P
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Eddy, a boost controller just holds the WG closed until a certain set pressure, then it "pops" open, it doesnt open 30% at 8psi, 60% by 12 psi, on and on.. it is completely closed until the set pressure, then it pops open. makes for quicker spool up too..
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Eddy, a boost controller just holds the WG closed until a certain set pressure, then it "pops" open, it doesnt open 30% at 8psi, 60% by 12 psi, on and on.. it is completely closed until the set pressure, then it pops open. makes for quicker spool up too..
oh ok so that is what thezorn is talking about then?
and almost tyler. i cant get my turbo apart so im going to say screw it.
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and almost tyler. i cant get my turbo apart so im going to say screw it.
Good you'll like the NA a lot more anyways :P
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Oh im still going to use it. I'm not a fool. I just can't change the hot side bearing is all. it wasn't leaking anyways.
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HEY! what are you saying?
I knew what you meant, I was just messin with ya
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Oh okay :P
im not saying anything ;)
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(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06956.jpg)
With the plate in there the push rod actually pushes on something! Hurray!
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that engine is very.... BLACK.
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yupp ;)
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Well designed for finding oil leaks ;)
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not really.. oil shows up way better on grey, or white. my engine is machine grey and it shows oil leaks like no other.
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not really.. oil shows up way better on grey, or white. my engine is machine grey and it shows oil leaks like no other.
Yeah, it was a joke... I think the can of paint he used could've said "sooty oil black" on it
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its a new engine why would there be oil leaks? ;)
ok but onto a serious matter.
I got everything together and timed and i tried to turn it over with the ratchet (as you all should do before you turn the key) and it got stuck... i said uh oh ... the timing marks i made on the flywheel are wrong... all ... three of them...
I decide that this was the problem so i pull the belt off and let the cam come up off the valves.
i try again... still gets stuck - same place.
i think frick okay maybe my VAC pump got ker-nucked in the explosion from the last engine so i remove that. now the oil pump isn't being driven either.
try again still gets stuck... same spot.
i get my friend to listen closely and it sounds like a VERY firm thunk somewhere to do with the flywheel/clutch ect.
I desperately need to figure this out before Monday >.<
I should probably post a trouble shooting thread...
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Were you able to turn the engine over before you hooked the tranny up?
Is the tranny in neutral?
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one of the rod caps hits the pick up tube of the oil pump ... :/
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Two suggestions at this point:
1) let's pick one thread or the other to troubleshoot this issue... watching two threads is hard on my brain. ;-)
2) as you young whippersnappers say: "Pics or it didn't happen". If there's any way you could post a couple of pictures Eddy I think we could get a handle on it pretty quick-like.
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2) as you young whippersnappers say: "Pics or it didn't happen". If there's any way you could post a couple of pictures Eddy I think we could get a handle on it pretty quick-like.
+1
Would it work to cut, rotate and reweld the pick up tube to move it out of the way?
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Are you using the 1.6 or the 1.9 oil pump?
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Are you using the 1.6 or the 1.9 oil pump?
i was wondering about this also. my bet is the 1.6 pump..
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Yes, the only AAZ parts below the deck of the block are as follows:
block
pistons
con rods
crank
im shaft
Everything else from the 1.6:
vac pump, oil pump, oil pan, oil baffle, injection pump, brackets, pulleys, manifolds (except the intake), turbo, oil line to the turbo from the flange and so it goes on.
some parts i made for the converstion:
modified ALH intake, oil return for the turbo, a plug on the block, water hose from the water pump to the top of the head.
I can see on the feed tube where it was hitting. It hits the flange where the tube joins the pump. So when i get home from work im going to crawl under there and look to see where on the stroke the piston is and if i can remove enough material from the flange to allow it to pass by with some clearance (like 2-3mm)
if not i guess i have to find an oil pump asap... i may end up having to shell out big money for a new one :(
wouldn't be the end of the world i suppose. I could get the biggest one it would house especially since i added an oil cooler and am running higher boost.
Two suggestions at this point:
1) let's pick one thread or the other to troubleshoot this issue... watching two threads is hard on my brain. ;-)
yeah sorry im really bad at that. you can delete the other thread if you want. It started out as a suspected problem that was totally different and then the two sort of joined. I was really angry because after weeks and like 14 hours of getting it all set up & together and plumbing stuff and trips to the autoparts store and many hundreds of dollars later im ready to turn the key pretty much and it gets stuck. i was just so fed up I spent all day yesterday at the beach because i was so upset.
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i was just so fed up I spent all day yesterday at the beach because i was so upset.
I think we all have days like that.
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why re use an oil pump on a new build? thats not very good practice.. unless the oil pump you have is extremely low miles.. but it still came from a grenaded engine..
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why re use an oil pump on a new build? thats not very good practice.. unless the oil pump you have is extremely low miles.. but it still came from a grenaded engine..
I of course took the pump apart and inspected it... I'm not totally inept. There was no maring on the gears, housing or anything. It was clear nothing went through it. Nothing is worn and it still spins freely. (if you've ever taken one of these apart you'll know they are extremely simple. For those who have not - they are literally just two gears that turn away from each other and in doing so it moves oil from one side to the other and at speed im sure they do this at quite a rate=pressure)
Also, i don't exactly have a ton of cash and im not about to take out a loan to buy an oil pump. So it will have to do unless of course you want to donate me a new one?
Just so we're all clear (and im not trying to be a jerk here) I don't build engines for a living. i figured that much was obvious. This car is all i have and i need it to go to work inside summer & university outside of summer. I really enjoy working on it and talking to you guys but it's much more of a nessesity for me as it is a fun project. that being said i know i really should take out a student loan and buy some el-cheapo crap cart with a warranty but that's not the type of person I am. I'm not saying to follow my practices, in fact i advise against it [the last engine i touched exploded after 20k km for goodness sake]. I'm starting to invest a decent amount of money into it now i agree and a new pump would be wise but i'd rather, sorry not i'd rather - i have to bank on, use[ing] the low pressure warning system as my insurance policy and replace the pump when it becomes an issue.
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Two suggestions at this point:
1) let's pick one thread or the other to troubleshoot this issue... watching two threads is hard on my brain. ;-)
yeah sorry im really bad at that.
No apology needed.. my suggestion was more about how we could be as helpful as possible as you solve this latest puzzle... and you'll solve 'er for sure.
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From what I've heard the oil pump is about the last thing to go bad on these engines.
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oil pumps generally dont go bad on any engine, but it is common practice to replace them when you do a re-build, or get a new, unknown past engine..
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$100 would buy a new oil pump. That's not unreasonable for the heart of your engine. I do have a used one though if you are interested. Cover the cost of shipping and it's yours.
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I've seen some cheap new oil pumps Id definitely bin in favor of an inspected OEM used one.
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I made the 1.6 one work. I'll post pics in a few.
by the way, she started this evening ;)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06991.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06992.jpg)
This shows where it was hitting the flange.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06990.jpg)
this is my "fix" i removed a lot of material. It's hard to tell in the picture because its so smooth but i removed probably 4mm of material on that side. And before i get ragged on i covered the pump when i did this AND i cleaned it with varsol afterwards. I plan on changing the oil after 2 hours of run time anyways.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06997.jpg)
My oil cooler :) (I have since clamped those lines with good clamps)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06996.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06994.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06995.jpg)
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Looks awesome! Glad to hear it's running again. It will be interesting to see the differences between this engine and your last one. My guess would be more bottom end torque with slightly less high revving capability. Nice work.
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i would wrap the oil lines with something. so they dont rub on the subframe.
good work on all this tho.
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she started this evening ;)
:) :) :)
Yuppers... very clean install and a good solution... still don't understand why you had interference, but you fixed 'er up, real good!
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One of the most important things I was taught in school was "just because it's new doesn't mean it's any good, it just means you spent a lot of money on it."
Glad to hear you got it running. As always though, videos or it never happened.
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Great work, Ed! I can't wait to get a ride in this monster!
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Good news Ed, now drive it to Calgary ;D
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wanna meet half way and drag?
lol..
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I'll waste ya kev ;)
naw my 3,000watt stereo will weigh me down. I didn't realize it was 2,900 watts till i counted the speakers and amps to juice em...
videos or it never happened hahahahah
i need to cut the power steering lines and join them first.
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uhh so i ran it for about two minutes and then it stuttered and died. It got alarmingly warm for how short a time it ran for. The water light was flashing and so was the oil light? but there was no buzzer for low pressure - does that make any sense?
I thought it died because i have the pump loose for timing and it sounded like it was getting more and more retard but it just shook to a stop. the intermediate shaft turns so it's not siezed or anything. How do you know if the oil pump is turning? i fear that the vacuum pump from the 1.6 isn't long enough to engage the shaft of the oil pump...
now its really hard to turn over but it will go with some effort
...
..
.
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I believe the gear is different on the vac. pump for the 1.9l.
I think the 1.9 gear is larger I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong. The intermediate shaft may not be driving that "new" oil pump.
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pull the oil pressure sender, then turn the motor by hand, oil should juice out.
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The pump isn't new.
i pulled the vac pump and compared the 1.6 one i cleaned up to the 1.9 one. I would use the 1.9 pump but the fitting for the vac line has broken off.
They have very slight differences. the 1.6 has more gear area which makes the 1.9 look like its longer.
i took off the belt, cam cover, cam, vacuum pump and had a look at everything. it was all really really hot. The IM shaft turns fine, the cam turned fine, the injection pump/waterpump/alternator spin freely.
i tried turning the crank by hand and it gave a nasty machining sound so i stopped immediately.
I was starting the think that the crank had been starved of oil which would be a really bad thing so i triple checked the oil level (its hard to see because its still perfectly clear oil) and got out my trusty 1/4 drive to trill bit thing and fired a 12mm deep socket onto three extensions and then to my drill. i gave the oil pump a good hit with the drill and oil came juicing out of the seats of the cam (and down the side of the block). at this point i quicky put the cam with its seal back in and tightened the caps down. i gave the oil pump a really good go with the drill until the amount of oil in the cam area wasn't increasing but steadily flowing back down into the block.
i gave the crank another turn (with the cam locked of course) and it was much easier this time and no scary sounds. i then made sure all belts were clear and gave it a go with the starter. *bwump bwump bwump bwump* goes the block making tons of compression.
So sighing an enormous sigh of relief my next question is ...
Could my oil pump be too small for the 1.9?
Does my drill spin it way faster than it does naturally when idling?
If i set the drill to low it will hardly bring anything up to the cam but on high it came pouring out.
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Did you prime the pump before starting the motor? Did you use a lube on the mains and rods during assembly?
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i did prime it but probably no where near enough. i didn't use the drill for as long. I used engine oil during assembly.
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A good assembly lube is far better than oil for assembly. I generally prime until the top end has oil and have pressure on the gauge. Hope your bottom end is ok.
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I would put the vacuum pump back in and spin the im shaft and see if you get any oil pressure. The im shaft spins counter clockwise of course. Even if you spin the im pulley by hand you should feel some resistance when oil pressure builds slighty and oil should push out of the oil pressure sending unit hole. If you feel no resistance the oil pump might not be turning.
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When you pulled the vac pump and spun the oil pump with the drill was it immediately hard to turn or did it spin easy at first while it built up pressure?
The 1.6 vac pump does not fit in the hole in the block of the AAZ. I mean, the hole is too big in the block.
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When you pulled the vac pump and spun the oil pump with the drill was it immediately hard to turn or did it spin easy at first while it built up pressure?
The 1.6 vac pump does not fit in the hole in the block of the AAZ. I mean, the hole is too big in the block.
the pump actually did fit but the gear size difference was the culprit! the gear wasn't engaging on the 1.6 vac pump so it was actually being starved of oil...
when spinning with a drill it took a few seconds to build pressure
i primed it good & proper got the belt back on and started it up
after forgetting to tighten the cam cover bolts (its ok its rust protection now) i drove it around the block.
it drives funny. It's either injection timing, new rings or a combination of both OR the fact that its a 1.9 not a 1.6... but all seems well now.
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Good to hear you got it running! Hopefully it is just a combination of breaking in and the new engine that makes it feel funny.
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So it must have oil pumping now then? Can you swap vacuum pump tops?
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yes no oil issues now. It was because i hadn't primed it properly (whoops)
I tried swapping tops :( no go...
just have to drive carefully and slowly for now. won't do the break in any harm either :P
saw 10 pounds in 4th going a mediocre pace.
the turbo sounds louder somehow?
im not driving it as hard as i did the 1.6 obviously but it definately can grunt a little harder.
doesn't break the tires loose like the 1.6 did in 1st but that too could be a break in related thing.
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Glad you got it going, but...
it is not too late to inspect a main bearing, and install a pressure gauge.
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1.6 and 1.9 use a different pump drive gear dont they? like how the 1.6 and ABA gassers have a totally different setup?
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Yep, 1,6 vacuumpump will not work in 1,9 block.
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Libby - I did the same but had a brain fart, didn't check my tap drill chart and drilled mine for 1/4 NPT - in that case, the hole size is large enough to catch and destroy the pump vanes. Needless to say, my power brakes work every now and then these days...
I'm curious to see how yours works out because it's what I'll be doing next time I bust a nipple, but I bet the 1/8 NPT hole is small enough to not affect things.
Chris
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Is the valve absolutely nessisary? I mean obviously otherwise it wouldn't be there but would it work at all without one?
My understanding is that no valve would mean the lines wouldn't hold any vacuum at all once that pump stops turning so you wouldn't get that 1 or 2 uses out of the pedal before it stiffens up without the car running.
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This is a continuation of my build progress, please still reply to the vacuum pump question.
After driving around the block twice with the correct vac pump spinning the oil pump this time got lots of oil pressure but the oil temp is about 40 degrees F cooler than it was before. I'm not entirely sure but i think the thermostat in the sandwich plate may be acting up OR is way colder than it should be. my electronic gauge which i don't trust all that well said about 145F after driving for less than 10 minutes. I have an 87C t-stat in the coolant because i plan on driving it up some mountains in August granted its done giving me heck by then. I have a 90C (or a 93C) for the winter.
I topped up the oil as it must have filled the cooler by this point (it was only just touching the dip stick!!!) and drove to my apartment. All went well and the next day i went to pick up my friend to go for a hike with my 2 other buddies. but on our way to location #3 it started to sound really really messed up when ever i gave it fuel...
like an exteremely loud tapping sound and it got progressively worse as i approached my parents house (where the garage & tools are).
I think the turbo has become out of balance. Does this sound right? when i down shift and it revs up there is no noise but when ever i give it fuel it sounds just awful...
I dont think it is advanced timing because i can't hear anything on idle and because this change happened while driving.
Should I go get my turbine balanced or do you, to collective mind that is this forum, reckon it's already hooped if it was doing that...
i haven't 100% confirmed its coming from the turbo but its all I can think of.
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the oil really never gets that hot in these engines..
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is 140F hot?
Im pretty sure that gauge is wrong but on hard pulls with the 1.6 it would read as high as 185 on the gauge.
So regardless of whether or not the gauge is right or wrong its a 40F decrease. And i know that oil doesn't really work properly until it's reached a certain temperature.
The main purpose of the cooler is to prolong the life of any turbo i put on there because I know i'll be pushing it and prevent cooking of the oil while it's in the turbo.
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140* or so is all i really ever see.. unless i hold it wide going up a long hill..
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Interesting. So my cooler is working perfectly then? I wish i had a mechanical gauge to be sure...
140F is 60C.
that is interesting though considering it would regularily read 180 before...
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If you ran it for a few minutes with no oil then there's a good chance that tapping noise is your rod bearings.
Chris
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If you ran it for a few minutes with no oil then there's a good chance that tapping noise is your rod bearings.
Chris
Yeah... I've been meaning to clarify that as well...in the end Eddy did you decide it actually ran without oil pressure for a while... and if so, how long?
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Yes it definately ran with no oil pressure what so ever :'(. The surfaces either had bearing grease on them or motor oil to begin with though, but i know that doesn't mean much. It ran for more like 90 seconds MAX and then stuttered to a stop indicating some seizing :'(. My only surprise is that once it cooled and was primed properly everything spun just fine ??? indepandantly from each other (meaning i took the belt off and spun everything by hand)
I have since then primed it properly and drove it a few kms (>10km) before it started to make any sound at all. I don't fully understand how rod or main bearings could make a tapping sound though? they are circular... and would i not hear it on idle if it were?
after i primed it up really good everything was easy to turn, no scary sounds no hard spots, TONS of compression. starts right up no stuttering on the starter despite it's horrible condition (rusty connection on the solenoid)
Pretty high chance i ruined everything though isn't it ... =*(
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Perhaps I should get back in touch with theman53 and see if i can get some rod & main bolts from him that won't yield when torqued and take all the caps off and inspect the bearings for excessive wear/spinning?
Do you think it is imperative that I do this?
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It ran for more like 90 seconds MAX and then stuttered to a stop indicating some seizing
It stopped and then was difficult to turn over manually, if I read your thread correctly? If it had ran for a couple of minutes with no oil but stopped and started normally I'd say you escaped injury, but to stop abruptly and now have some tapping noises suggests something's amiss.
The "tapping" sound comes from a moving component... rod, crank, piston... "slapping" against a bearing surface with too much clearance. Main bearings generally have a deep clunk, if they make any noise at all, since there's not much flex in a crank... as Chris points out "tapping" is almost always rod bearings in this case.. and if your hearing's good/you have a stethoscope you might even be able to narrow it down to a cylinder or two.
Assuming you intend this engine to be with you for a while.... for the cost of some more stretch-to-yield hardware you can consider pulling the oil pan and then inspecting and Plastigaging the rod bearings. If you find something you can then replace the rod bearings... if not, you could move on to check the mains. In fact, if the rod bearings took a hit you might want to check the mains anyways, just to be sure. Couple hours extra work... perhaps years of peace-of-mind? ;-)
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i would pull the caps off everything. it was starved for oil. or do you wanna find out that your rod bearings were bad like the last engine?
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This is a continuation of my build progress, please still reply to the vacuum pump question.
It seems to me you could use an inline check valve from another car, and just leave the dead one in place????
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This is a continuation of my build progress, please still reply to the vacuum pump question.
It seems to me you could use an inline check valve from another car, and just leave the dead one in place????
the whole nipple on the lid of the pump has snapped off. I have to remove it somehow and put a new one in the lid. I just wont use a check valve. I'm okay with not having power breaks after i turn the car off.
I'll put a clear line on there and look for oil :) it will be an experiment!
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i would pull the caps off everything. it was starved for oil. or do you wanna find out that your rod bearings were bad like the last engine?
Yeah exactly... I'm going to pin point the source of the noise exactly 6 hours from the time of this post.
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Just an FYI, but I once actually ran one engine with the oil supply to one of the main bearings accidentally completely blocked off. It actually ran flawlessly for about two weeks before seizing on a shift. That was very impressive to me. Didn't even damage the crank, the bearing smear just buffed off. That said, I'd definitely pull it apart.
Also, on running without the check valve, I wanted to mention that the crank oil getting into the brake booster might wreck the diaphragm.
oh jeeze. Guess i gotta get some new bolts then. =(
Will it be sufficient to just check the ones i can get at from the oil pan? (ie. avoid dropping the crank out with the pressureplate,flywheel & clutch)
Are the main bolts torque to yield? for some reason i don't remember them being TTY
Sometimes i feel like a real moron. I don't think I've been sleeping enough.
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You can do everything you need to do by dropping the oil pan... all the rod bearings and all the main bearings. Crank can stay happily in place. Both sets of hardware are TTY.
I'm with Andrew... I think your main bearings are gonna prove to be fine... but you gotta sacrifice some bolts to confirm. My personal interweb guess, just for fun, is some scuffing on the rod bearings... given the way you describe the sound and the PSI's on the bearings.
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Thanks for the help guys. I know im reluctant to assist the stupid so i thank you all for providing your support.
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i would pull the caps off everything. it was starved for oil. or do you wanna find out that your rod bearings were bad like the last engine?
Yeah exactly... I'm going to pin point the source of the noise exactly 6 hours from the time of this post.
TIMES UP!!!!!!!! ;)
I hope nothing major is busted, I hope nothing is busted
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I'm really embarrassed to say that the infernal racket was actually just the turbo coming free of the manifold. It had almost completely fallen off. One of the bolts is missing which i need to replace. and the others were finger tight...
boy do i feel like a moron. I tightened it up and ran it a bit. still smokes a little white/blue on idle. starts up good. What i do need to know is how the wiring for the alternator works? is the blue wire supposed to be insulated from the body of the alternator? my battery light is still on and my turn signals still don't work. Multimeter said it was charging at 14.6 and when turned off went down to about 13.5
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Thanks for the help guys. I know im reluctant to assist the stupid so i thank you all for providing your support.
Don't be so hard on yourself. We all make silly mistakes, you just have the kahunas to post them on the net ;)
Did you realize that the turbo was loose before you dropped the pan?
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Multimeter said it was charging at 14.6 and when turned off went down to about 13.5
That sounds fine. The 13.5V will slowly drop down to 12.6ish as the battery settles over several minutes... 12.6 being the typical resting voltage of a fully-charged battery at room temperature.
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Wow made some incredible progress today :P
Tyler, i noticed the leak when i tried to start it i saw huge amounts of exhaust coming from where exhaust shouldn't!!! looked at it and i could easily fit a pencil in the gap.
I had the blue wire grounding to the body of the alternator and it shouldn't be so i insulated it with a nylon washer! No more battery light! Huzzah!
now to fix those freakin turn signals... I think it might possibly? be headlight related. I got really cheap headlights from princess auto i think im going to go back to the regular 9006's or what ever they are.
One thing to note though is my speedo doesn't work anymore :( the cable is all loosey-goosey. must have come out of the cluster.
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I know you can rip the guts out of the speedo cable if you drop the trans without unhooking it :-[
IIRC blue wire is tach W terminal...
Smoke at idle...You aren't done breaking the poor thing in!
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I'm really embarrassed to say that the infernal racket was actually just the turbo coming free of the manifold. It had almost completely fallen off. One of the bolts is missing which i need to replace. and the others were finger tight...
boy do i feel like a moron. I tightened it up and ran it a bit. still smokes a little white/blue on idle. starts up good.
I was gonna tell you to check the turbo bolts ;D jk.
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? What's the pressure? I'd say if it has good pressure run it. If it starts getting louder/lower oil pressure over time then you should check stuff. But that's just my worthless opinion 8). Look up on youtube and see how long these run with no oil or coolant and revved to the moon.
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yeah it drives progressively better with every kilometer!!!
I must have nackered the cable then. :( i didn't remove it before dropping the trans. its really loose and weird.
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its gonna take a thousand or so miles before it quits smoking and starts up real easy..
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So i took it camping with 2 buddies and all our crap for three days. It did okay. Had an inredibly annoying tendancy to pop boost hoses off... even with T-clamps...
It did alright but i noticed that at low-ish rpm (i dont have a tach yet) it would really ... shake? the car. it would feel like how an unbalanced tire feels except it was only at low rpm, under load, in a gear like 4th or 5th and was rpm dependant.
I have a 200mm pushrod plate in my 210mm clutch im wondering if that might be off center and causing the unbalance?
I don't notice anything at idle but i have the idle set rather high for the moment.
will post more + video later.
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So i took it camping with 2 buddies and all our crap for three days. It did okay. Had an inredibly annoying tendancy to pop boost hoses off... even with T-clamps...
It did alright but i noticed that at low-ish rpm (i dont have a tach yet) it would really ... shake? the car. it would feel like how an unbalanced tire feels except it was only at low rpm, under load, in a gear like 4th or 5th and was rpm dependant.
I have a 200mm pushrod plate in my 210mm clutch im wondering if that might be off center and causing the unbalance?
I don't notice anything at idle but i have the idle set rather high for the moment.
will post more + video later.
that shaking in the car? that is torque dude.. and it shakes more cause you got more!
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that shaking in the car? that is torque dude.. and it shakes more cause you got more!
What? Torque shakes car ???
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yeah it doesn't seem normal... my friend said something along the lines of it being a bigger displacement engine and still only 4 cylinders so i guess ROR and he are saying the same thing but i asked a couple other AAZ drivers and they said theirs doesn't do that at all...
it only does it on fairly heavy load at lower rpm. probably 1,800-2,200 (thats my guess anyways)
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I think the shaking was a result of 1 missing bolt.
The bolt that holds the IP bracket to the Alternator bracket which adds a mounting point to the block. I believe the pump was rattling enough with that leeway to rapidly retard the injection timing causing that stumbling shuddering feeling.
I advanced the timing with the engine cold and cold start OUT until the smoke went away. With it cold and the cold start pushed in it smokes white until warmed up.
starts much better now - it had retarded it's self. Now im having an issue with getting the nut on the fuel screw to stop coming undone. I hate pulling up to a red light and throw it into neutral and the idle has got to be at 3k
And honestly, i dont know if its too early to tell, but i had more fun driving the 1.6/1.9. It may have made less power/torque but it was more fun to drive. It would rev up really really fast compared to the added 300cc's of the aaz. It would spin the tires easily in 1st gear on dry pavement but now this engine doesn't do that at all but it pulls hard where the 1.6 would struggle. It feels like it more easily gets up to speed but it wont do it in a hurry if you tell it unlike the half breed did.
this engine starts on the first stroke unlike my other one but the other one needed an overbore...
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I think the shaking was a result of 1 missing bolt.
The bolt that holds the IP bracket to the Alternator bracket which adds a mounting point to the block. I believe the pump was rattling enough with that leeway to rapidly retard the injection timing causing that stumbling shuddering feeling.
I advanced the timing with the engine cold and cold start OUT until the smoke went away. With it cold and the cold start pushed in it smokes white until warmed up.
starts much better now - it had retarded it's self. Now im having an issue with getting the nut on the fuel screw to stop coming undone. I hate pulling up to a red light and throw it into neutral and the idle has got to be at 3k
And honestly, i dont know if its too early to tell, but i had more fun driving the 1.6/1.9. It may have made less power/torque but it was more fun to drive. It would rev up really really fast compared to the added 300cc's of the aaz. It would spin the tires easily in 1st gear on dry pavement but now this engine doesn't do that at all but it pulls hard where the 1.6 would struggle. It feels like it more easily gets up to speed but it wont do it in a hurry if you tell it unlike the half breed did.
this engine starts on the first stroke unlike my other one but the other one needed an overbore...
you still dont know what you pump timing is for sure do you? correct timing has alot to do with power, and how it comes on..
my 1.6 in my 84 diesel rabbit that i just got recently, will blow the doors off any TD car ive driven in the past.. it fries the tires off in first and second gear. no clutch drop required, just a little quick shifting. and i know its because it has a good fuel pump on it, and its timed correctly. it doesnt need the cold start out to start, but it starts slightly quicker.
i think you need to be friends with someone with a timing gauge. then make them time it for you ;D
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I agree Kev :P
I'm also havign hardware problems...
as in brackets coming loose because the bolts keep backing out despite me tightening them like a mofo. The bolt out of the bottom of the IP bracket (near the dip stick) has come out twice and the 90 degree bracket has lost both of its bolts (at seperate occasions) allowing the IP to flop about and make a horrific racket. Its frustrating because the bolt that goes adjacent to the pulley has to be really short so it doesn't protrude into the pulley.
Last night I bought from GermanAutoparts.com (http://GermanAutoparts.com):
1 Headlight switch 29.77
1 Sport front brake kit, 9. 139.95 (my rotors feel wavy and really thin - likely not within spec)
2 Brake hose, front. Male/Female 11.25
2 Brake hose, rear. 9.27
1 Grille, upper, between headlights 38.59 (mine has 1 clip left on it and wire holding it on the other side)
1 Antenna, fender mount. Ch 19.10 (got broken off a year or two ago)
1 Speedometer cable, 1 piec 24.53 (mine got wrecked dropping the trans)
1 Gasket, speedometer cable 3.15 (goes on the trans)
4 Bulb, dual filament, 12V, 1.88 (turn signal bulbs all around)
2 Bulb, wedge base, 3 watt. 0.53 (side markers)
1 GermanAutoParts.com licence plate holder 2.00
i posted the prices because im quite saticefied with them. The local VW shop in town wanted $75 for that headlight switch and $140 for front disks & pads i thought was alright. They are vented and cross drilled. I also liked the price for new rubber brake lines. It will force me to bleed them as well.
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What bolts are you using? I had same problem when I assembled my engine with fancy stainless bolts. Went back to normal bolts => problem solved.
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hahahha i've gotten to the point of scrounging for what ever i can find. 8.8 zinc coated work so-so. I found a long 12.9 allen head bolt that i put a nut on to make it "shorter" and am currently using that.
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Theman53 sent me some bolts but i've still yet to recieve them. I put new ones on the injection pump bracket after it completely fell off with LOTS of locktite and locking washers. Have yet to come loose.
the day before yesterday i changed my front rotors out for vented and drilled ones. the next day the passenger side wheel came completely off while i was driving and the car skidded on the rotor... thankfully I was barely moving...
turns out both hubs on the front are almost totally stripped!!! =(
the wheel coming off totally screwed the fender to the point where i can't open the passenger door. Somehow, the rotor and caliper seem to be alright however the dust cover sounds like it's rubbing against the rotor or wheel.
I bought 16 much longer Gorilla high tensile bolts to the tune of $72...
I also put in my new front grille but as a result of the new grille my front bumper now doesn't stay on the car. I drove over it yesterday breaking both turn signal cases.
I'm a C-hair away from scraping the car.
it has a MVI order of notice on it that expires on the 30th of this month and it has an endless number of things wrong with it.
the rear struts protrude through the rear shelf (FIXED!)
the rear doors break any door handle i've ever put in them (i have no idea why) (FIXED!)
the passenger front fender is totally effed
the front passenger door wont open (without getting damaged (FIXED!)
the highbeams don't work (i think its bulb related)(FIXED!)
the bumpers fall off(FIXED!)
the driver side headlight is missing one of its mounts so it swings back and forth(FIXED!)
the alternator struggles to keep it charged
the downpipe hits the underneath of the car(FIXED!)
one rim got bent from a hit & run i was in. Insurance didn't cover it because its "after market"
two injectors leak like freaking crazy from the return nipples, one actually sprays from where the hard line joins the injector(FIXED!)
the wire going to one of the coolant temp sensors has come off - ill attempt to solder it i guess(FIXED!)
the car has new nitrogen struts, adjustable stiff springs & rubber bushings; fresh bearings, rings and seals; new pads and rotors (vented & drilled conversion); new grille, return lines on the injectors but they still leak, signal switch, headlight switch, relays (except glowplug), most of the fuses; So far I've added "pimped" glow plugs, red LED's in the dash, rear LED brake lights (in the middle), big fan off a V6taurus, intercooler, cold side rebuild on the T3 (hot side is fused together), injection pump seals (2 years ago), all glowplugs over the last year, battery (within last 2 months), 2.5" straight exhaust split infront of rear tires, drive shafts and all 4 CV's are within 6 months - still look great; and the clutch & pressure plate are new and the flywheel was machined - all 210mm. The dash also has EGT, boost, oil temp and a tach (yet to wire up) in it.
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Well I am almost as new as it gets here
I was lurking around here and learning when this thread started
If it matters at all I was always impressed by your determination to put everything back together and get it going again
Life got busy for me there for a bit, and I missed a bunch of pages in this thread
I have been staring at the screen trying to comprehend the run of crap luck you have had
Aint much I can say except, I feel your pain with days/and or projects just like this
I do know that if someone on here is close to you, could you please buy this fella a beer
I vote for not selling it, you have come so far already
Pardon my .02
Kind regards and best of luck
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corssing my fingers for the MVI this week. changing the windshield tuesday. replacing a bleeder tomorrow & bleeding the brakes. Welding a new down pipe hopfully and adding at least 1 hanger to the exhaust. Also, hopefully finding a fender to replace my mashed one. I replaced the front brake lines last week. I had a dismal time getting the rear ones off. Any advice on that?
I may also need to get new front hubs. both hubs have 1 bolt location that's completely stripped. Anyone have a source for mk2 front hubs?
I put the stock steel rims back on it which looks really odd because i dont have fender flares and its lifted about 3 inches...
I replaced the damaged intercooler last night with a thinner one. Looks MINT... i should take some pictures.
I also fixed my highbeam problem. The bulbs were not working correctly.
Also, with the key out, if i turn the lights on and pull back on the switch to turn the highs on my blower motor will come on if its set to 1,2 or 3.
and if i click it back a second time it doesn't do it. its every other time i engage the brights...
i have no clue where this wiring cross over is happening but it CANT be good :(
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My Rabbit does the same with the blower motor and the high beam switch.
Chris
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Yeah, "pulling on the high beam stalk" is a rogue current path brought to you straight from the factory... comes in handy if you forget to power up your windows and you've already removed the key. ;)
What confuses me about Eddie's story is that it sounds like he can get the rogue path to come and go on every second click. That does sound more like some kind of weird current path, even weirder than the one the car came with. :P
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As I said in the other thread, I have about three passenger side fenders attached to parts cars. If you want one you can have it. My uncle, who lives in Burnaby, is up this week and so he can take it down with him. if you want something, just say.
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My Rabbit is the same - fan comes on only when changing from low to high and not from high to low.
Chris
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My Rabbit is the same - fan comes on only when changing from low to high and not from high to low.
Chris
Mines the same........I never knew about it before but now it kinda bugs me.......... ::)
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Yes, the blower / High beam thing is normal , it works on every second click because the blower is connected to the X-circuit, and the x circuit gets powerded by the headlight bulbs when you use the high beam sw.
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that is so weird :P
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Edna! Hows this beast running!? Still have yet to update FUELLY I see... Not impressed ;)
Maybe you are holding back because of the 26mpg you got just floggin' this thing :P
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Hahahah
well i haven't burnt a full tank yet!!!
well, not with the speedo hooked up at least.
two injectors leak like CRAZY so i guestimated that my mpg will be a -10 just because of the amount of diesel that comes out of them
one injector actually sprays out...
the timing is hopelessly retarded. sometimes in the morning it will run really really bad and i'll get fed up and giver on the smoke pedal and it will like back fire... make a loud noise and make a huge amount of smoke and no power.
im collecting things into "to do" piles.
right now i've got a dash pile which is
new speedo cable and antenna wire to go in the back of the dash.
next is the fender at which time i'll also lower the suspension back to stock or just below stock ride height
i just switched out the damaged IC with a new one
i got a new set of lifters waiting to go in when i properly time it. I'd also like to replace the injectors at the same time. this leak is getting out of hand.
my IC pipe leaks oil vapour all over my belts so the V belt regularly slips which is getting annoying. RadoTD and I have teamed up so we've been organizing and working together a bit. he and i have the same intercooler and when he plumbs his we'll plum mine with alluminum pipe instead of the ABS im using.
what else...
i think i need two new hubs for the front because they are badly stripped.
i just did new vented and drilled rotors
the passenger pig tail completely doesn't work now. andddd the windshield is getting replaced this coming week. likely friday which is the day i have off.
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Jeremy, 4.4L/100km... thats higher than my 2000 TDI
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I've got some errands to run Tuesday morning, but I'll head out your way probably around noon and we'll get through a bunch of those things you need to do.
No luck finding a mandrel bender I can use yet though :P
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oh I'm working Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday. be home 7:00pm each of those days.
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Bump to the top 8)
hows it comin ed?
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Today after work im hopefully welding a new downpipe as the one from the 1.6 rubs the bottom of the car at a certain rpm.
Grey_Smoke has been kind enough to send me a passenger fender and turn signal pig tails with his uncle who was visiting and lives near me!! (HURRAY!) for a very reasonable price too, i'm very greatful. I'm meeting his uncle on wednesday to pick them up.
I still need to book a time for the windshield to get replaced. I got extra days this week otherwise it would have been today.
RadoTD came over the other day and we drove each other's cars. There is something special about an AAZ powered Corrado. And his grin while driving my car re-assured me that my hard work might possibly be worth it once the jetta is a little nicer to look at.
I've got plans to paint the interior black as well. My friend tried out this dupli-colour vinyl & carpet paint and it works great on the vinyl - not so great on the carpet. So I think i'll take the seat covers off and the carpet out and soak them in a bath of dye instead of spraying them with a can.
Also, is there any chance that the pushrod in my transmission could be too long for the clutch set up i have? If not, Im thinking i should have found the 210mm plate that the pushrod pushes against. Could the 200mm one im using with the 210mm clutch, P.Plate and FW be fouling it up at all?
the reason i ask is my speedo jumped a couple times on hard accelerations and that clutch should never slip...
Could there be a slipage happening in the transmission anywhere? It definitely takes more torque than the old stock one but my stomach sank when i saw the speedo jump from about 70-80km/h...
ps. Expect to see a pretty sweet update from RadoTD and I. It has to do with intercoolers ;) we're stoked about it.
fuelly is retarded and wont take my trip mileage vs. fuel consumption. it goes off of the odometer reading vs. the previous fill up... which i think is stupid
anyways, i took 2 seconds to figure out my mileage and it is DISSSMALLL
19.0469393 MPG
that's over 12L/100km.
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Wow busy week or so for ya :)
good luck with everything
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fuelly is retarded and wont take my trip mileage vs. fuel consumption. it goes off of the odometer reading vs. the previous fill up... which i think is stupid
anyways, i took 2 seconds to figure out my mileage and it is DISSSMALLL
19.0469393 MPG
that's over 12L/100km.
You can change that in your settings somewhere to go by tripometer. And once your injectors stop leaking, your mileage will be a lot better. That's about what an equivalent gasser would do anyway :P
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I missed the heater fan discussioin, but the heater motor and radio stay on if you press and hold the brake petal before you shut the car off. The heater motor and radio will stay on. This is also factory that may have something to do with the lights. (MK2) My MK3 had the radio wired through the headlights. If the lights are on the radio will stay on. Some wierd Deuchland wiring...
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I just found out a mark i got in math was 3% shy of being able to take the next course...
so looks like i'll be getting a welding ticket as i'm too dumb for school. I'll likely have a ton of free time in the coming months to work on the POS.
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Hey eddy, I just realized I forgot to post up pics of that Manual boost controller I told you guys about.
It does act more like a wastegate rather then a blow off valve, all it does is regulate the flow of air between the line that goes from the turbo neck to the wategate.
It comes out of the turbo here.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/manual%20boost%20controller/IMG_1553.jpg)
and goes to the wastegate here.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/manual%20boost%20controller/IMG_1556.jpg)
All I did was cut the line, and place my boost controller in between them to not allow any flow to the wategate until the boost pressure reaches the desired level, which is 15 PSI for me.
The controller looks like this.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/manual%20boost%20controller/IMG_1586.jpg)
And is made of these parts.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/manual%20boost%20controller/IMG_1584.jpg)
It acts like a regular "BALL AND SPRING" MBC and only opens to let air through when there is enough pressure pushing up on the ball. The time at which the ball will move is controlled by the pressure of the spring which is pushing down of the ball inside the controller. The spring pressure is controlled by a bolt on the top of the MBC that pushed down compressing the spring to any level of resistance you want.
Its been working awsome for me, and is alot nicer then playing with the wastegate.
If you guy want a parts list of what I used I can post that up also.
Sorry for the insane delay for this post ;D
Will Zorn
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Today after work im hopefully welding a new downpipe as the one from the 1.6 rubs the bottom of the car at a certain rpm.
Grey_Smoke has been kind enough to send me a passenger fender and turn signal pig tails with his uncle who was visiting and lives near me!! (HURRAY!) for a very reasonable price too, i'm very greatful. I'm meeting his uncle on wednesday to pick them up.
I still need to book a time for the windshield to get replaced. I got extra days this week otherwise it would have been today.
RadoTD came over the other day and we drove each other's cars. There is something special about an AAZ powered Corrado. And his grin while driving my car re-assured me that my hard work might possibly be worth it once the jetta is a little nicer to look at.
I've got plans to paint the interior black as well. My friend tried out this dupli-colour vinyl & carpet paint and it works great on the vinyl - not so great on the carpet. So I think i'll take the seat covers off and the carpet out and soak them in a bath of dye instead of spraying them with a can.
Also, is there any chance that the pushrod in my transmission could be too long for the clutch set up i have? If not, Im thinking i should have found the 210mm plate that the pushrod pushes against. Could the 200mm one im using with the 210mm clutch, P.Plate and FW be fouling it up at all?
the reason i ask is my speedo jumped a couple times on hard accelerations and that clutch should never slip...
Could there be a slipage happening in the transmission anywhere? It definitely takes more torque than the old stock one but my stomach sank when i saw the speedo jump from about 70-80km/h...
ps. Expect to see a pretty sweet update from RadoTD and I. It has to do with intercoolers ;) we're stoked about it.
fuelly is retarded and wont take my trip mileage vs. fuel consumption. it goes off of the odometer reading vs. the previous fill up... which i think is stupid
anyways, i took 2 seconds to figure out my mileage and it is DISSSMALLL
19.0469393 MPG
that's over 12L/100km.
you know ed, i was wondering the same thing. just did a new clutch in the 4 dr rabbit. used an ABA flywheel and pressure plate with the stock 200mm center ring that the push rod pushes against. and i had to let all the adjustment out of my cable to even get the right cable tension.. its not right, i can tell that for sure. but it works grand. i think the 210mm center ring has a little more dish to it, towards the trans side..
and ed, if your clutch were slipping, your speedo would do nothing, because the trans wouldnt be turning, or wouldnt be turning the same speed as the engine. so, if your speedo is jumping around, thats not necessarily a bad thing. it means your tires are breaking loose and spinning. 8)
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Oh yeah good point...
could the transmission slip internally?
i just am astounded that my little creation could spin them at 70km/h in 3rd gear. What's that in mph? like 40?
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Thezorn, thanks for the post. RadoTD showed me the exact same thing last week! Looks like it would work fantastically. I just need to find new fittings to go into my turbo and i'm set. (mine is filled with JB weld)
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Oh yeah good point...
could the transmission slip internally?
i just am astounded that my little creation could spin them at 70km/h in 3rd gear. What's that in mph? like 40?
usually when the trans slips internally, it doesnt hook back up, you pull the box, open it, and fix all the broken pieces.
spinning at 40 mph doesnt sound out of the question..
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Figured this needed to be updated since the forum is back :)
So i just changed (to pass a VI)
Windshield!!! =D
rear drums, wheel cylinders, shoes, front hub, wheel bearings (except for the passenger hub & bearing), lowered the car, finally got an antenna but the cable is too short to reach my deck ...
I also made a lower brace for the intercooler
I put some pins through my bumper because it was messed up
my rear structural bumper had sheared off bolts from me trying to take it off way back when and the shop doing the VI welded (under my instruction) the bumper to the car. I didn't want to deal with drilling and taping. They only charged $40.
i built a sub box and got an 1800watt amp for it. it's in the trunk now.
I added a muffler to my exhaust. This will look familiar. I had it posted in a muffler thread.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC07221.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC07222.jpg)
I also fixed my license plate lights, side marker light, reverse lights, turn signals & headlight switch.
I just bought a remote start from canadian tire (so its a crappier "Prostart" brand but i made sure it was warrantied). Will do a write up on the wiring for that for those interested. The point is that on the chair lift going up for my last run of the day I can start the car and it will idle until i get down and hopefully have melted any snow on it and warmed up a little.
Also, will be using RadoTD's boost controller. He said he'd make one up at work one day! =) I'm still limited by boost pressure. I don't like to push my T3 much at all past 20psi. I think i'll set my controller to 16 or 18 pounds.
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(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0054.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0053.jpg)
And this will hopefully be my new downpipe soon...
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0059.jpg)
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EDNA, looking guuud buudddy.
Me are be liking the boost piping! Is it mandrel bent exhaust tubing? Hows the AAZ treating you, and what size is that DP gonna be? Either way man gonna be nice.
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It's an intercooler kit from ebay. Its all aluminum. The exhaust is 2.5" ID. I have to ream out two of the stud holes though. sigh. i tried yesterday and filled my hands with steel slivers using my dremel :(
RadoTD is coming over tomorrow with his dye grinder (spelling?) anyways should get sped up after tomorrow. He is also going to help me cut the pipe for the down pipe and then weld it at work.
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ok he just texted me literally 5 seconds ago saying he stole a welder from work and is bringing it tomorrow...
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Oh about the aaz uhm... its got less "zip" than the half breed like i've been saying but it torques the @!#$% out of the tires in like 4th and 5th gears... since my speedo and everything will be working i'll post some videos of it slipping the tires like crazy on damp pavement at like 80km/hr.
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Oh about the aaz uhm... its got less "zip" than the half breed like i've been saying but it torques the @!#$% out of the tires in like 4th and 5th gears... since my speedo and everything will be working i'll post some videos of it slipping the tires like crazy on damp pavement at like 80km/hr.
Where did you pick up those mandel bends Eddie? was it local? im looking for the exactly the same stuff.
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The exhaust, Lordco. The aluminum, eBay.
The exhaust was two 180 degree bends.
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The exhaust, Lordco. The aluminum, eBay.
The exhaust was two 180 degree bends.
The exhaust is what I was intersted in. Thank you sir. Ill give lordco a call on tuesday. where they farley cheap?
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Ah Chris farley how we miss him.
Yeah they gave me some sort of discount. Like 15$ each or something.
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As promised, thanks to RadoTD:
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0068.jpg)
I'm proud of my self for this weld having not a welder for my self and for being buttwelds i think it turned out really well!
I blame the Argon for such clean welds.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0069.jpg)
I got the parts from Lordco Autoparts.
The parts exluding the flange (i recommend sourcing a better one than mine as it had to be modified to clear the waste gate plate on my T3. It also didn't match the holes perfectly) are as follows:
Line. Part number. Item. List Price.
171. 42322. U-Bend Pipe. $41.99
VIB. 4556. SS Flex Coup. $87.99
I paid roughly 50% of the list price for the items. I got 2 U-bends.
One bend we cut a 117 degree bend and from and the other U a 90 degree bend.
The flange is offset from perpendicular to the flex (the straight part that goes under the car) by 27 degrees.
Why get 2 u-bends then? because you're almost guaranteed to EFF it up at least once.
Tools required: angle grinder with at least one cutting disk and one grinding disk. A protractor. A paint pen. A tri-square helps. So does a regular square. Any straight edge. We used a level in combination with the grinding disk on the grinder to do the fine touches. A welder. MIG worked really well with Argon/CO2 as our inhibitor. RadoTD told me the ratio but i forgot already. It's the recommended mix for steel.
If you can rent or borrow a MIG welder i strongly recommend doing so to make your down pipe. it took us an astonishingly small amount of time since we had the angles and measurements to follow from my old refrigerant pipe down pipe.
MIG is very easy to set up and even easier to use.
My past experiences have been using shielded flux wire which was messy and terrible. The inert gas welding was completely different.
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As promised, thanks to RadoTD:
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0068.jpg)
I'm proud of my self for this weld having not a welder for my self and for being buttwelds i think it turned out really well!
I blame the Argon for such clean welds.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0069.jpg)
I got the parts from Lordco Autoparts.
The parts exluding the flange (i recommend sourcing a better one than mine as it had to be modified to clear the waste gate plate on my T3. It also didn't match the holes perfectly) are as follows:
Line. Part number. Item. List Price.
171. 42322. U-Bend Pipe. $41.99
VIB. 4556. SS Flex Coup. $87.99
I paid roughly 50% of the list price for the items. I got 2 U-bends.
One bend we cut a 117 degree bend and from and the other U a 90 degree bend.
The flange is offset from perpendicular to the flex (the straight part that goes under the car) by 27 degrees.
Why get 2 u-bends then? because you're almost guaranteed to EFF it up at least once.
Tools required: angle grinder with at least one cutting disk and one grinding disk. A protractor. A paint pen. A tri-square helps. So does a regular square. Any straight edge. We used a level in combination with the grinding disk on the grinder to do the fine touches. A welder. MIG worked really well with Argon/CO2 as our inhibitor. RadoTD told me the ratio but i forgot already. It's the recommended mix for steel.
If you can rent or borrow a MIG welder i strongly recommend doing so to make your down pipe. it took us an astonishingly small amount of time since we had the angles and measurements to follow from my old refrigerant pipe down pipe.
MIG is very easy to set up and even easier to use.
My past experiences have been using shielded flux wire which was messy and terrible. The inert gas welding was completely different.
The gas mixture is called (stargold) C25. It is 75% argon 25% C02. :) straight argon works pretty much equally though.
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Did you get my pm?
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would a flux welder be able to weld exhaust? im looking into getting a welder and dont know which one would be cheapest and get the job done.
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I used flux before. It works fine its just messy if you aren't skilled as I am not.
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I used flux before. It works fine its just messy if you aren't skilled as I am not.
Yeah, definitely now as clean and shiny as gas shielded and not as strong as gas welds, but flux does have one advantage besides a cheaper machine - it can be used on dirty metal, even with some rust as the flux will remove some of the oxygen from the metal.
BTW Eddie, really nice welding.
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flux has acid and stuff in it? so when it burns it cleans the metal?
my brother uses nothing but flux core to weld pilings together. they dont even clean the metal, just start burning wire..
i wanna say he welds with something big like .064? wire? i dont remember tho. but i know its bigger than every day home welder flux core wire.
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flux has acid and stuff in it? so when it burns it cleans the metal?
my brother uses nothing but flux core to weld pilings together. they dont even clean the metal, just start burning wire..
i wanna say he welds with something big like .064? wire? i dont remember tho. but i know its bigger than every day home welder flux core wire.
This is almost true, on the right track for sure. When you weld with a MIG welder, the inert gas (usually a mixture of argon and other gasses) acts as a shield to the atmosphere so the molten metal puddle you are creating when welding does get attacked by oxygen and in turn does not oxidies.
Flux core does not have this inert gas to create a shield around the molten puddle so the (flux) which is a mixture of different materials depending on what you are welding, gets burned dirring the metal transfer prosess creating a smokey hase around your puddle. This smokey hase acts as the same kind of shield to the surrounding atmoshpere as the inert gas does. In turn gaurding your molten puddle. Some of the smoke does get sucked into the puddle and mixed around with the molten metal but, have no fear, it resurfaces once the puddle starts to cool and become what we all no as "slag", the nasty crap you have to chip off the top of your weld bead once it has cooled. The easiest way to understand flux core welding is to think of it as the same this are Arc (stick) welding but instead of the flux coating being on the outside of the rod in stick welding, the flux is on the inside of the wire. But acts in the exact same way.
And flux core wire can be alot bigger then the normal .035 or .045 mig wire. I have personally welded with flux core wire as big as 1.2mm thick. Its nasty stuff though. Verrry very dirty.
:) Will.
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Best use of flux core is when you have wind or dirty stuff like mentioned before. The wind strong enough to blow away the shielding gas sucks. If you are fairly new to it like me you start to question your manhood. Your welds, as much as you try, really start to suck. Until you figure it out and go inside or get the flux core :D
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Did you get my pm?
yea just saw that, thanks again ed
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forgot to ask you before ed. What clutch and pressure plate do you have? Im having a hard time deciding on what to get.
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I have a six puck clutch and "drag racing" pp from bildon motor sport. I recommend the six puck. It's not too grabby at all.
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would a flux welder be able to weld exhaust? im looking into getting a welder and dont know which one would be cheapest and get the job done.
i know... old post...but... i bought a nieco welder at KMS tools....135 amp runs on 110 v works great.... i also bought the bottel and wire...cart and a few other odds and ends...they use twco fittings so you can get parts at any welding suply store.. i do prefere the gas welding... used to weld in a shop in edmonton building vac trucks... and for a small welder this one seems good... hell i got the whole set up for the price of one miller or lincon.. and when your set up its suprizing how many uses you find for it... really they are an investment and a good one to... easy to use and there is a good welding chart in the hood of the welder its self... flux core is messy... smokes splaters and is a pain to clean... but if i remember right it also burns hotter so you can weld thicker metal with a smaller welder and there is less prep work needed ..... so if your welding old rusty thick metal flux... if its newer and clean go with gas...both have there place.... its just the choice you make depending on the steel your welding
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Of course. Exhaust tube steel is pretty easy to weld. it won't be pretty but it will work.
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I haven't posted on here in a while. Here are some fun pics because lets be honest, if there weren't photos on here I wouldn't not only not use the forum but I would probably scrap my VW.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMG_20120503_175629.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMG_20120504_011121.jpg)
Here is the bracket I made for the larger 90 amp to replace the 65
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMG_20120503_180024.jpg)
Here are prothes injector lines. I had to bend them some to make them fit but they are leak free.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMG_20120503_180007.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMG_20120503_175955.jpg)
The old gauges. Now all needles move except for the oil temp. I broke the sensortrying to take it out.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMG_20120504_011219.jpg)
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I thought you were showing off your 35 psi of boost :-\
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I thought you were showing off your 35 psi of boost :-\
LoL! You so funny.
As I told you earlier Edna my brother and I have the same set :) they are rockin for the price. He is actually working on a 1.9 swap himself!! GONNA BE AWESOME!
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you got an AAZ, and a big stereo dont you?
then you need a TDI/VR6 120a alternator..
boy, lemme tell you what! that 120a alternator is AMAZING..
my stereo has ALWAYS dimmed the lights in my car when you got it turned up..
even with 2 batteries hooked up, it would still dim the lights decent..
but then i did a serpentine swap, and added that 120a VR alternator (with ABA alt pulley) to it, and now, my lights DO NOT DIM, even when listening to quick dubstep with really tight bass, it still just pours the power to the batteries..
the difference between the 65a and 90a is big, but the difference from a 90a, to a 120a, is HUGE!!
the VR alternator was the best mod ive ever done to my charging system, hands down..
and i know you, like me, run a big stereo too, with more than one amp, and LOTS of current draw..
anyways, if you want a bullet-proof charging system, go with the VR/TDI 120a alt, a good batt under the hood, a wheel chair deep cycle in the trunk, and a capacitor if you feel the need..
i run no capacitor in my system now.. i always used get noise thru my amps with a cap installed.. now the deep cycle, being ~2 feet from my amps, has all the reserve power they could want..
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I don't have the means to do a serpentine. I don't notice dimming lights or any issue with my set up. The volt meter also shows the alternator holds up fine. Never dips below what I see as 13.6+v. I spent a lot of money on it :(
If I had the 100 Watt Hella's, 135 Watt highbeams, a microwave on from the 600 Watt inverter and I was blasting the tunes... yeah then it probably wouldn't work.