The Rebirth of Smokey Eddy - The 1.9 Saga

[Rabbit on Roids]

So i took it camping with 2 buddies and all our crap for three days. It did okay. Had an inredibly annoying tendancy to pop boost hoses off...  even with T-clamps...

It did alright but i noticed that at low-ish rpm (i dont have a tach yet) it would really ... shake? the car. it would feel like how an unbalanced tire feels except it was only at low rpm, under load, in a gear like 4th or 5th and was rpm dependant.

I have a 200mm pushrod plate in my 210mm clutch im wondering if that might be off center and causing the unbalance?

I don't notice anything at idle but i have the idle set rather high for the moment.
will post more + video later.

that shaking in the car? that is torque dude.. and it shakes more cause you got more!

[MJF]

that shaking in the car? that is torque dude.. and it shakes more cause you got more!

What? Torque shakes car

[Smokey Eddy]

yeah it doesn't seem normal... my friend said something along the lines of it being a bigger displacement engine and still only 4 cylinders so i guess ROR and he are saying the same thing but i asked a couple other AAZ drivers and they said theirs doesn't do that at all...

it only does it on fairly heavy load at lower rpm. probably 1,800-2,200 (thats my guess anyways)

[Smokey Eddy]

I think the shaking was a result of 1 missing bolt.
The bolt that holds the IP bracket to the Alternator bracket which adds a mounting point to the block. I believe the pump was rattling enough with that leeway to rapidly retard the injection timing causing that stumbling shuddering feeling.
I advanced the timing with the engine cold and cold start OUT until the smoke went away. With it cold and the cold start pushed in it smokes white until warmed up.
starts much better now - it had retarded it's self. Now im having an issue with getting the nut on the fuel screw to stop coming undone. I hate pulling up to a red light and throw it into neutral and the idle has got to be at 3k

And honestly, i dont know if its too early to tell, but i had more fun driving the 1.6/1.9. It may have made less power/torque but it was more fun to drive. It would rev up really really fast compared to the added 300cc's of the aaz. It would spin the tires easily in 1st gear on dry pavement but now this engine doesn't do that at all but it pulls hard where the 1.6 would struggle. It feels like it more easily gets up to speed but it wont do it in a hurry if you tell it unlike the half breed did.

this engine starts on the first stroke unlike my other one but the other one needed an overbore...

[Rabbit on Roids]

I think the shaking was a result of 1 missing bolt.
The bolt that holds the IP bracket to the Alternator bracket which adds a mounting point to the block. I believe the pump was rattling enough with that leeway to rapidly retard the injection timing causing that stumbling shuddering feeling.
I advanced the timing with the engine cold and cold start OUT until the smoke went away. With it cold and the cold start pushed in it smokes white until warmed up.
starts much better now - it had retarded it's self. Now im having an issue with getting the nut on the fuel screw to stop coming undone. I hate pulling up to a red light and throw it into neutral and the idle has got to be at 3k

And honestly, i dont know if its too early to tell, but i had more fun driving the 1.6/1.9. It may have made less power/torque but it was more fun to drive. It would rev up really really fast compared to the added 300cc's of the aaz. It would spin the tires easily in 1st gear on dry pavement but now this engine doesn't do that at all but it pulls hard where the 1.6 would struggle. It feels like it more easily gets up to speed but it wont do it in a hurry if you tell it unlike the half breed did.

this engine starts on the first stroke unlike my other one but the other one needed an overbore...

you still dont know what you pump timing is for sure do you? correct timing has alot to do with power, and how it comes on..

my 1.6 in my 84 diesel rabbit that i just got recently, will blow the doors off any TD car ive driven in the past.. it fries the tires off in first and second gear. no clutch drop required, just a little quick shifting. and i know its because it has a good fuel pump on it, and its timed correctly. it doesnt need the cold start out to start, but it starts slightly quicker.

i think you need to be friends with someone with a timing gauge. then make them time it for you  

[Smokey Eddy]

I agree Kev
I'm also havign hardware problems...
as in brackets coming loose because the bolts keep backing out despite me tightening them like a mofo. The bolt out of the bottom of the IP bracket (near the dip stick) has come out twice and the 90 degree bracket has lost both of its bolts (at seperate occasions) allowing the IP to flop about and make a horrific racket. Its frustrating because the bolt that goes adjacent to the pulley has to be really short so it doesn't protrude into the pulley.

Last night I bought from GermanAutoparts.com:
1  Headlight switch 29.77
1  Sport front brake kit, 9. 139.95             (my rotors feel wavy and really thin - likely not within spec)
2  Brake hose, front. Male/Female 11.25
2  Brake hose, rear. 9.27
1  Grille, upper, between headlights 38.59   (mine has 1 clip left on it and wire holding it on the other side)
1  Antenna, fender mount. Ch 19.10          (got broken off a year or two ago)
1  Speedometer cable, 1 piec 24.53           (mine got wrecked dropping the trans)
1  Gasket, speedometer cable 3.15            (goes on the trans)
4  Bulb, dual filament, 12V, 1.88                (turn signal bulbs all around)
2  Bulb, wedge base, 3 watt. 0.53             (side markers)
1  GermanAutoParts.com licence plate holder 2.00

i posted the prices because im quite saticefied with them. The local VW shop in town wanted $75 for that headlight switch and $140 for front disks & pads i thought was alright. They are vented and cross drilled. I also liked the price for new rubber brake lines. It will force me to bleed them as well.

[MJF]

What bolts are you using? I had same problem when I assembled my engine with fancy stainless bolts. Went back to normal bolts => problem solved.

[Smokey Eddy]

hahahha i've gotten to the point of scrounging for what ever i can find. 8.8 zinc  coated work so-so. I found a long 12.9 allen head bolt that i put a nut on to make it "shorter" and am currently using that.

[Smokey Eddy]

Theman53 sent me some bolts but i've still yet to recieve them. I put new ones on the injection pump bracket after it completely fell off with LOTS of locktite and locking washers. Have yet to come loose.

the day before yesterday i changed my front rotors out for vented and drilled ones. the next day the passenger side wheel came completely off while i was driving and the car skidded on the rotor... thankfully I was barely moving...

turns out both hubs on the front are almost totally stripped!!! =(

the wheel coming off totally screwed the fender to the point where i can't open the passenger door. Somehow, the rotor and caliper seem to be alright however the dust cover sounds like it's rubbing against the rotor or wheel.

I bought 16 much longer Gorilla high tensile bolts to the tune of $72...

I also put in my new front grille but as a result of the new grille my front bumper now doesn't stay on the car. I drove over it yesterday breaking both turn signal cases.

I'm a C-hair away from scraping the car.

it has a MVI order of notice on it that expires on the 30th of this month and it has an endless number of things wrong with it.

the rear struts protrude through the rear shelf (FIXED!)
the rear doors break any door handle i've ever put in them (i have no idea why) (FIXED!)
the passenger front fender is totally effed
the front passenger door wont open (without getting damaged (FIXED!)
the highbeams don't work (i think its bulb related)(FIXED!)
the bumpers fall off(FIXED!)
the driver side headlight is missing one of its mounts so it swings back and forth(FIXED!)
the alternator struggles to keep it charged
the downpipe hits the underneath of the car(FIXED!)
one rim got bent from a hit & run i was in. Insurance didn't cover it because its "after market"
two injectors leak like freaking crazy from the return nipples, one actually sprays from where the hard line joins the injector(FIXED!)
the wire going to one of the coolant temp sensors has come off - ill attempt to solder it i guess(FIXED!)



the car has new nitrogen struts, adjustable stiff springs & rubber bushings; fresh bearings, rings and seals; new pads and rotors (vented & drilled conversion); new grille, return lines on the injectors but they still leak, signal switch, headlight switch, relays (except glowplug), most of the fuses; So far I've added "pimped" glow plugs, red LED's in the dash, rear LED brake lights (in the middle), big fan off a V6taurus, intercooler, cold side rebuild on the T3 (hot side is fused together), injection pump seals (2 years ago), all glowplugs over the last year, battery (within last 2 months), 2.5" straight exhaust split infront of rear tires, drive shafts and all 4 CV's are within 6 months - still look great; and the clutch & pressure plate are new and the flywheel was machined - all 210mm. The dash also has EGT, boost, oil temp and a tach (yet to wire up) in it.

[morgoon]

Well I am almost as new as it gets here

I was lurking around here and learning when this thread started

If it matters at all I was always impressed by your determination to put everything back together and get it going again

Life got busy for me there for a bit, and I missed a bunch of pages in this thread

I have been staring at the screen trying to comprehend the run of crap luck you have had

Aint much I can say except, I feel your pain with days/and or projects just like this

I do know that if someone on here is close to you, could you please buy this fella a beer

I vote for not selling it, you have come so far already

Pardon my .02

Kind regards and best of luck

[Smokey Eddy]

corssing my fingers for the MVI this week. changing the windshield tuesday. replacing a bleeder tomorrow & bleeding the brakes. Welding a new down pipe hopfully and adding at least 1 hanger to the exhaust. Also, hopefully finding a fender to replace my mashed one. I replaced the front brake lines last week. I had a dismal time getting the rear ones off. Any advice on that?
I may also need to get new front hubs. both hubs have 1 bolt location that's completely stripped. Anyone have a source for mk2 front hubs?
I put the stock steel rims back on it which looks really odd because i dont have fender flares and its lifted about 3 inches...
I replaced the damaged intercooler last night with a thinner one. Looks MINT... i should take some pictures.
I also fixed my highbeam problem. The bulbs were not working correctly.

Also, with the key out, if i turn the lights on and pull back on the switch to turn the highs on my blower motor will come on if its set to 1,2 or 3.
and if i click it back a second time it doesn't do it. its every other time i engage the brights...
i have no clue where this wiring cross over is happening but it CANT be good

[Luckypabst]

My Rabbit does the same with the blower motor and the high beam switch.

Chris

[Vincent Waldon]

Yeah, "pulling on the high beam stalk" is a rogue current path brought to you straight from the factory... comes in handy if you forget to power up your windows and you've already removed the key.    

What confuses me about Eddie's story is that it sounds like he can get the rogue path to come and go on every second click.  That does sound more like some kind of weird current path, even weirder than the one the car came with.    

[Grey_Smoke]

As I said in the other thread, I have about three passenger side fenders attached to parts cars.  If you want one you can have it.  My uncle, who lives in Burnaby, is up this week and so he can take it down with him.  if you want something, just say. 

[Luckypabst]

My Rabbit is the same - fan comes on only when changing from low to high and not from high to low.

Chris