As promised, thanks to RadoTD:

I'm proud of my self for this weld having not a welder for my self and for being buttwelds i think it turned out really well!
I blame the Argon for such clean welds.

I got the parts from Lordco Autoparts.
The parts exluding the flange (i recommend sourcing a better one than mine as it had to be modified to clear the waste gate plate on my T3. It also didn't match the holes perfectly) are as follows:
Line. Part number. Item. List Price.
171. 42322. U-Bend Pipe. $41.99
VIB. 4556. SS Flex Coup. $87.99
I paid roughly 50% of the list price for the items. I got 2 U-bends.
One bend we cut a 117 degree bend and from and the other U a 90 degree bend.
The flange is offset from perpendicular to the flex (the straight part that goes under the car) by 27 degrees.
Why get 2 u-bends then? because you're almost guaranteed to EFF it up at least once.
Tools required: angle grinder with at least one cutting disk and one grinding disk. A protractor. A paint pen. A tri-square helps. So does a regular square. Any straight edge. We used a level in combination with the grinding disk on the grinder to do the fine touches. A welder. MIG worked really well with Argon/CO2 as our inhibitor. RadoTD told me the ratio but i forgot already. It's the recommended mix for steel.
If you can rent or borrow a MIG welder i strongly recommend doing so to make your down pipe. it took us an astonishingly small amount of time since we had the angles and measurements to follow from my old refrigerant pipe down pipe.
MIG is very easy to set up and even easier to use.
My past experiences have been using shielded flux wire which was messy and terrible. The inert gas welding was completely different.