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1.6 Help needed (Rusted engine)
by
patracy
on 31 Jul, 2007 18:46
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I've got a 1.6 that I'm trying to rebuild for my project. However it appears that water was in the engine for a while, enough to rust the cyls. pretty good. I've had them soaking in oil for the past two days. But I don't think I'll get it good enough to be able to turn by hand again. (Lots of scales from rust)
Looking from the bottom of the engine, what bits of the cyl walls I can see don't appear to be rusted. So my question is, can I drop the crank out and drive the pistons down and out the bottom of the block?
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#1
by
Barry W
on 31 Jul, 2007 20:06
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The rods and pistons have to come out from the top of the motor. They can't come out the bottom.
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#2
by
jtanguay
on 31 Jul, 2007 20:46
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can't the pistons come out the bottom with crank removed? the only thing i can see getting in the way would be the piston oil squirters... and those are only a turn of a wrench away from removing...
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#3
by
Barry W
on 31 Jul, 2007 21:49
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I'm lookin at my engine pics and I just can't quite see it. It just might be possible, although I've always got em out from the top of the motor.
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#4
by
patracy
on 01 Aug, 2007 02:47
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can't the pistons come out the bottom with crank removed? the only thing i can see getting in the way would be the piston oil squirters... and those are only a turn of a wrench away from removing...
Older 1.6. No squirters.
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#5
by
saurkraut
on 01 Aug, 2007 06:11
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Best of my recolection, it has nothing to do with the oil nozzles. The main bearing bosses are in the way. the pistons have to go out the top.
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#6
by
patracy
on 01 Aug, 2007 06:49
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Best of my recolection, it has nothing to do with the oil nozzles. The main bearing bosses are in the way. the pistons have to go out the top.
The main bearing bosses were what I was worried about. I thought perhaps they might drop out since the piston skirts have releafs in them for clearance. I guess I'll let it soak for another day or two. Drop the crank, try to knock the pistons down in the holes a little more, then hone out the rust to have a "clear" path to go out the top.
...hopefully.
I'm betting I'll have to have the block bored and replace the pistons. I see autozone has a kit for it. Is there anywhere that has a better price?
(I hoped the engine only had some light rust causing it to freeze. I hoped to get by with just a re-ring)
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#7
by
bevboyy
on 01 Aug, 2007 08:09
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What oil are you using? I usually use vast amounts of liquid wrench when I unstick my project motorcycle engines...
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#8
by
patracy
on 01 Aug, 2007 08:13
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Liquid wrench, an entire can among all cyl.
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#9
by
bevboyy
on 01 Aug, 2007 09:45
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Give that stuff some time. I usually let it sit for a week or so. Once it is all seeped through, use a propane torch and heat up the top of the piston, especially the area where the rings are contacting the cylinder wall. Then use a wood dowel and tap the pistons out from the bottom....
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#10
by
Black Smokin' Diesel
on 01 Aug, 2007 15:49
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Best of my recolection, it has nothing to do with the oil nozzles. The main bearing bosses are in the way. the pistons have to go out the top.
Yep, it's physically impossible to remove the pistons from the bottom of the block.
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#11
by
foxracer1
on 01 Aug, 2007 16:19
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PB blaster is alot better. imho
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#12
by
bevboyy
on 01 Aug, 2007 16:44
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PB blaster is also good stuff. You have to break the seal the rings made with the cylinder wall..it can be done.
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#13
by
patracy
on 01 Aug, 2007 19:23
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I should have taken pics before I started to soak them. They're bad enough where it felt like sandpaper from the scales.
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#14
by
Vincent Waldon
on 01 Aug, 2007 19:30
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Perhaps you can (eventually) push the pistons way down and then get into each cylinder with a deglazing hone and hone away enough of the rust so that the piston can come out the top.. you're probably looking at re-boring anyway ??
In fact, if you're re-boring anyway you're into it for new pistons... whack...detonation due to a hammer !!
Vince