engine swap on vw

[vwmike]

A 1.6 TD bolts into your Rabbit. There is really no extra wiring

A 1.9 IDI bolts into your Rabbit, but I have heard the block is a bit taller so you may have to extend your downpipe. If it's a 1.9 Turbo IDI then you'd have to make your own downpipe anyways and there are no significant electronics there either.

A 1.9 TDI will bolt in if it's out of a MK3 Chassis (93-99.5), but there is probably a crossover point somewhere toward the end of the chassis to where the engine will no longer bolt in. There is electronics associated with this engine, but it is by far the best diesel VW used. The 99+ TDI will fit, but you will have to fabricate a new passenger motor mount and the downpipe of course. 2001 and later cars had an immobilizer that causes problems with the swap so that further complicates things.

All of these engines will bolt to your transmission. I think most of the problem you're having getting answers here is because you aren't using complete sentences and no one knows what you're talking about.

[jtanguay]

as for electrical... there isnt much.  Just a few odd sensors here and there - glowplug, water level, washer fluid, oil pres... oh yea dont forget to wire up the starter and alt (duh)

diesels are simply amazing electrical wise!  Hell... there could be a nuclear explosion and your car would still run (maybe not start... but it would run!! if you survive the blast haha)

as for the swap.  If you just use the block, you run into many problems.  Best thing is to find a working 1.6TD and drop it in.  While you drop it in check motor mounts, maybe put in a new clutch... odd things that make all the difference.

[Hammy]

Do not waste your time, using the 1.6L n/a, and adding the turbo manifolds, you are asking for troubles. Especially when it sounds as though you are not too familiar with these engines. Trust me I learned the hard way! This summer, I swapped to a 1.6 TD. If you are familiar with changing engines, this will be easy. There is no electrical changes. The only thing I found to watch for is the rear engine mount and the clearance of it and the turbo oil return line. I believe that was it. There are no scary electronics to worry about, and if you are swapping in a used engine from a donor car, the oil line from the oil filter housing to the turbo, should be there. As should the return line on the back side from the turbo to the oil pan.

 For the most trouble free solution, just swap to the 1.6L turbo, or leave it als is :roll:

[srivett]

Rip the engine out of your car and buy whatever you want to put in.  Then you'll have to figure it out.  You will need a timing gauge which is worth as much as the timing parts.  Expect to lose a month of car use, that's how long it took my friend to put replace his 1970s 305 with a 350.  But hey, when you're only 16 and get 4 hours a week to work on a car it takes time.

Cheers, Steve